why does my trunnion tilt when in lock position? i have lubricate 3 time. there is a screw that goes through the middle to hold it. if i over tighten the bolt it will not tilt
You get this figured out? I’m trying to puzzle over your words to no avail, can you put up pics sometime showing how you resolved it?
[External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied] if it’s to loose the nut in back will slip off when the motor is on but if it’s to tight it will not move
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peroxwhygen wrote:
1 hour ago, peroxwhygen said:[External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied] if it’s to loose the nut in back will slip off when the motor is on but if it’s to tight it will not move
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It looks like on those super old school machines that the way to lock it is to tighten the bolt all the way down so it can’t move and then you have to loosen it and retighten each time you adjust the tilt.
i have my first project with my table saw. the instructions says to set the rip fence to 1 1/2in i do not have a tape measure on my saw like you see on a Stopsaw, so how will i be able to do this
jon burgess wrote:
15 minutes ago, jon burgess said:i have my first project with my table saw. the instructions says to set the rip fence to 1 1/2in i do not have a tape measure on my saw like you see on a Stopsaw, so how will i be able to do this
Take any tape measure and measure the distance between the fence and the very edge of the blade.
[External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied] is this what you mean or does it need to move a little bit
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peroxwhygen wrote:
16 minutes ago, peroxwhygen said:[External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied] is this what you mean or does it need to move a little bit
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It looks perfect!
I’m not to sure please crew correct me but should the 1 1/2″ be between the blade and the fence so that the material you are cutting is an inch and a half wide otherwise the material will be “short”.
From a fan of tools with lots of assistance from Siri #TIACREW
tonylandin wrote:
20 minutes ago, tonylandin said:I’m not to sure please crew correct me but should the 1 1/2″ be between the blade and the fence so that the material you are cutting is an inch and a half wide otherwise the material will be “short”.
From a fan of tools with lots of assistance from Siri #TIACREW
Yeah that’s exactly right. In the picture it looked like that’s how he had it but my phone screen is dim and it’s bright out so I may be seeing it wrong. For sure shouldn’t be to the far edge of the blade or center. It should be to the inside edge of the blade measured at the tip of a tooth, I.e. the widest part of the blade.
By inside edge I mean edge closest to the fence.
https://vimeo.com/167452272 he’s the video version of what I am making. I like to use the 1 1/2in
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peroxwhygen wrote:
https://vimeo.com/167452272 he’s the video version of what I am making. I like to use the 1 1/2inSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You want the 1-1/2″ then make sure thats the SPACE between the fence and the teeth of the blade… and if you’re still in doubt, make a test cut first, and measure that with your tape as normal
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as i was truing up the ends on my cutting board to make it into an end grain cutting board the belt slipped off. as most of you know i put on a new belt. why would it slip off?
i have notice after making a few cuts the belt is pretty warm to the touch. also if this matter is the motor is also very hot. there is not bearings behind the saw blade.
im 99.9% sure i installed it on the pulley correctly because you can tell when its not on the pulley.
i also get a burning like small when i cut the wood
Just let it burn and start a regular BBQ!!
If the belt is as loose as your video shows still, then it needs to be tightened.
Did you put on different size pulleys than was with it originally?
Does the burning seem to be coming from the wood, or the motor? Check for scorch marks on the wood, or a wisp of smoke from the motor (that would be bad)
the smell seems to be from the belt or the motor. there are new bearings in the motor. (but its still is a 65 year old motor) new bearings or not. i did not replace the original pulleys because they looked fine. the video i uploaded did not have a blade attach to it once i add the blade the belt did not wobble .
jon burgess wrote:
2 hours ago, jon burgess said:the smell seems to be from the belt or the motor. there are new bearings in the motor. (but its still is a 65 year old motor) new bearings or not. i did not replace the original pulleys because they looked fine. the video i uploaded did not have a blade attach to it once i add the blade the belt did not wobble .
Check the number on your belt. It is going to be something like B49 or some other thing like that. It will be in the format of B## where those two numbers are the length. Go to your local belt supplier and pick up a high quality belt for cogged pulleys. It will be in the format of BX## where the two numbers following the BX should be the same as the numbers following the B on your previous belt. I have found that in situations where everything isn’t quite ideal these will actually grip the pulleys more and slip less. If it continues to smell, I would advise getting new pulleys. You often can’t tell a pulley is bad only from a visual inspection.
Stercorarius wrote:
Check the number on your belt. It is going to be something like B49 or some other thing like that. It will be in the format of B## where those two numbers are the length. Go to your local belt supplier and pick up a high quality belt for cogged pulleys. It will be in the format of BX## where the two numbers following the BX should be the same as the numbers following the B on your previous belt. I have found that in situations where everything isn’t quite ideal these will actually grip the pulleys more and slip less. If it continues to smell, I would advise getting new pulleys. You often can’t tell a pulley is bad only from a visual inspection.
This.
Was working on an RTU (roof mounted air conditioner) and the belt must have worn unevenly because the thickness of the belt varied as it went around the pulley, so it would ride in and out of the pulley slightly, bouncing the whole assembly around like mad as it was turning. I wish I grabbed a video of it because it was the craziest thing to watch. It looked perfect, but putting a new belt on fixed it.
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KnarlyCarl wrote:
6 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:
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Those socket rails keep getting more and more credible.
@jon burgess this should help you figure out what belt you need. It isn’t as common in my work, but since this is small you may have an A## belt that I would exchange for the Tri-power AX## belt. I hope this isn’t confusing.
Nice chart sterco.
At the end of this, I roll the pulley around. As you can see, the belt rides perfectly even with the outer diameter of the pulley, whereas before the old belt was riding up and down and bouncing the whole thing
.
As you can see I was play around with the differences between vimeo and YouTube
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[External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied] here is what I made with the table saw
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so i got the sawstop contractor saw for my b-day last month love it. i was thinking turning the old one into a job site saw (like desalts saws) for my work or i need a table saw for a family house . could this work? the base is 13X15 i know i will need a piece of wood for the motor
jon burgess wrote:
On 9/8/2016 at 9:39 PM, jon burgess said:so i got the sawstop contractor saw for my b-day last month love it. i was thinking turning the old one into a job site saw (like desalts saws) for my work or i need a table saw for a family house . could this work? the base is 13X15 i know i will need a piece of wood for the motor
I dont get it, tell us what you have in mind
i was going to turn my 1952 table saw into a job site saw like you see at homedepot. i was wondering if bosch or dewalt mobile stand would work?
Absolutely, any stand would work it’s the modification that you will have to worry about because the chances of it directly fitting on a stand will be slim to none.
I would be inclined to find a cheap stand maybe off Craigslist and prepare myself with some angle iron or unistrut pieces to bolt to
Hi Jon, we’re you ever able to determine the date of manufacture for your Sears Craftsman 103.2216 1 8” bench saw? I’ve searched high & low on the internet, & can’t seem to pin mine down other than determining that it was sometime in the 50’s.