repairing 1950s table saw

Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Power Tools). This thread is read-only.

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

more pic too come

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JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Interested to see how this comes out, my local lumber yard uses an old Dewalt radial arm saw, sweet seeing old tools in action… See what I did there?

Jimbo

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WeldfabNeilMember since May 2015

I would love to see more pictures. I use to have my grandpas craftsman tablesaw. I planned on mechanically restoring it but never got to doing it. 

 

 

Photo from the original forum

Photo from the original forum

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Fletch, I love the table on that saw.

Jimbo

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KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

Yes Jimbo I saw what you did, did you see what I did lol

That’s gonna be so cool when you get it back up to working order, I’m sure everything works on it too, they built em to last!

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

end of yesterday

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

end of day 2. i use a product called Rust Free. it is the best product that i have used.

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

I have 2 question one how to take off my aluminum pulley the screw us out. I don’t have much tools. My other question should I keep the bearing or get new ones? i believe that they are the original ones

 

its not letting upload a pic of the pulley but its on the motor.

 
 
KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

Nice, all by hand with scotch brite pads and RustFree?

You want to remove the pulley off the motor or off the blade arbor?

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

yes i want to move the pulley the set stew is out and it does not want to move off the shaft. 

comp56Member since Sep 2014

get a pipe about same size as center of pulley, long enough to tap pulley farther down shaft, if you can….. sand shaft from where pulley is to end of shaft that it will come off of. .

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

thanks for the pipe trick. i was able to get it off

comp56Member since Sep 2014

your welcome glad it worked

LoganMember since Jun 2015

thats a cool table saw

 

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

i have another question if worst case the motor is dead. does it have to be 1/2hp with 3450 rpm or can i buy and table saw motor?

KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

I think any motor would work as long as it’s at least 1/2 HP and same RPM. And the bolt holes lined up would be helpful, but not necessary

Although I know two motor shops around here I would want them to repair the motor to keep it original. 

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

Where can I find a new 8in blade with 1in arbor 

jeffmcmillanMember since Jun 2015

I’ve never seen an 8 inch blade with 1 inch arbor.  You might have better luck with a normal 8 inch blade and a step bit.

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

she is done and has the TIA Stamp of approval. i decided to have to motor looked by a shop. the peg board is going to be used for blade storage.

Photo from the original forum

Photo from the original forum

Photo from the original forum

Photo from the original forum

KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

Just need to mount the motor I see, sweet sturdy saw for sure. I like the use of peg board, and is that the original wrench that came with it?

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

as far as i now that is the original wrench it been on it for years.

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Sweet looking saw, I bet you can’t wait to get that motor in there!

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

i all read have a project for once i get a new blade and the motor back. i still have to make sure the miter gauge is square and the fence

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

does anyone know where i can find an aftermarket saw guard. i have check eBay with no luck. my model number is 103.22160 if anyone want to look. i will check my grandfathers basement when i go up this week.

KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

And did you find a blade to fit it?

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

yes the blades are $200 a piece from a company called “forrest” if the one i have can’t be sharpened.

KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

Ouch a little salty I see, I have two places I can go to get blades sharpened, I feel lucky in that regard

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

she runs, but it sounds under power. it very quite for a 1952 motorhttps://youtu.be/4akXttQOJO8 it could just be me thinking that it should be louder

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

ITS ALIVE!!!!! belt looks a little loose any way to adjust it?

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

how would u tighten the belt i do know if i can move the motor further back

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Yea either that or the pully, other than that’s about it short of getting a new belt, it’s not bad but if you watch your video you can see the wobble on it.

Jimbo

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JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Does the belt directly drive the blade?

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

its so quite that u do not even need head phones. i got the belt from sears and they said that was the right belt. that is where the pulley from the motor goes to. it will spin the blade.

Photo from the original forum

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

If it’s new I wouldn’t worry too much about it, it’s not bad like it’s going to wobble off, I would just keep an eye and see how it holds up

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

the only thing i have notice is after running it for 30min the pulleys get loose and the set screws can’t screw in any deeper

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Hmmm sounds like you need an opinion from a machinist, fazz is good he knows his shit

Jimbo

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MikeInCtownMember since Mar 2016

The belt will need to be readjusted after a few minutes of running. This is normal for any pulley setup, but especially normal for something as old as this. Through years of running, the pulleys develop wear and so the grooves get wider than OE. The belt will settle and wear into the larger/wider groove after some run time. Just adjust as necessary.

 

I didn’t see what RPM the motor was for but it should be quiet. When you think it is noisy as in what you were expecting the motor should be you are thinking about a direct drive motor spinning at 9 or 10,000 RPM like a router or rotozip. In fact the noisiest thing you should hear on your saw would be the spinning of the blade. Should sound like a nice whirring.

 

And yes, it will be underpowered compared to todays saws. that is the nature of the beast. people back then didn’t expect to cut 12/4 Oak on the small saw like this. 😉 My ’49 Unisaw has only a one horse motor compared with the motors they put in today of 3 and 5 horsepower. You just have to know the limits and work within them.

 

Very nice job on the refinishing. the top looks fantastic!

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

its 1/2hp with roughly 3400 rpm

MikeInCtownMember since Mar 2016

Ok thats going to be good for about 3/4 plywood at most with a sharp blade. you can provbably do more if you go slow enough.

 

On the motor there may be a frame size designation if the nameplate is still entirely readable. If the frame size for example is 56, you can look up a 56 and what the munting dimensions are. Any motor with the same frame size in any HP configuration will bolt up and the pulley should work.

 

So for example the frame size was 56H (just some random designation) and was 1/2 HP and you came across a 56H frame motor that was 1.5HP then the two will be interchangeable as far as mounting and motor shaft size. you only need to worry about the breaker size and if the wiring can carry the amps you require. I’ve seen people even install a newer paddle switch and install a 240V motor in older saws as well. in any event, since the motor is behind the saw and not tucked in under the abor, you have a few more options available than do many others with odd old saws. Either way, just keep your eyes open on Craigslist for motors once in a hile as people clean out garages or sell off their dads stuff after they died.

 

you may already know all of this, so my apologies if you do.

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

i just bought the missing wing and blade guard very happy pics will be add when they come

 

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

just got my parts in. i got the ext. wing, blade guard, and dado insert.

Photo from the original forum

KnarlyCarlMember since Jan 2016

The two wings on together make it look very nice! Have you been using it to cut much wood with? is the fence nice and parallel to the blade?

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

i mad a cut in early april. i have notice that it vibrate a lot and it does move a little. do you think  using leveling feet or screwing the base to the floor will help it not move. the fence is a piece of junk but it works

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Is it the motor that moves or the whole until?

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

the whole unit wobbles a lot. if you put something like a mallet on the table top you can see it jumping around

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Sounds like you just need to stabilize the whole unit, bolting down would be a bad idea

Jimbo

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JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

Just make sure it’s level!!

Jimbo

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jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

it could just be the concrete floor is not smooth.

JimboS1iceMember since Sep 2015

jon burgess wrote:

it could just be the concrete floor is not smooth.

Try leveling it out before securing it doen

jon burgessMember since Mar 2015

i am trying to make the blade at 90 degrees to do so i have to move the screws any tips to move it. i have tried wd-40 with no luck

 

( it would not let me upload the pic but i got one from the manual)

Photo from the original forum

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