Awesome rack setup Mr. Yellow. Can you provide some details on the mounting brackets and where to source them or did you fabricate them your self?
Thanks!
Which mounting brackets do you mean? The ones where you slide the cases on?
Those are part of DeWALT’s ToughSystem and are called the “DS Brackets”. These can be ordered in sets of 2.
US item# DWST08212 (EU item# DS Brackets / 1-70-362) For some reason they aren’t listed (yet?) on DeWALT.com
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Side is all done now. Blades are hanging and not bouncing around on a nail or screw.
To be honest I liked the look when the blades weren’t there. But I needed proper storage for them.
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Mr. Yellow wrote:
Thanks!
Which mounting brackets do you mean? The ones where you slide the cases on?
Those are part of DeWALT’s ToughSystem and are called the “DS Brackets”. These can be ordered in sets of 2.
US item# DWST08212 (EU item# DS Brackets / 1-70-362) For some reason they aren’t listed (yet?) on DeWALT.com
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US item # DWST08212 is exactly what i needed, thanks! I’ll have to get some square stock to fabricate a rack in my garage & pickup truck. Do you know the dimensions of the square these mount to?
I found a link here:
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/dewalt/products/DWST08212.asp
I used aluminum 25x25mm, because I didn’t want to use steel as I had to have it coated in the end.
But square aluminum pipe really is square and the brackets are designed for rounded edges.
So for that steel will work better. Or you have to modify the brackets like I did.
Also you have to drill holes at the back of your rails. 25mm from center to center is what I did and resulted in a perfect height between the cases.
Monday I received my new DeWALT levels.
Big thanks to Deshi for helping me out on getting these and have them shipped from US to EU. A few days ago I mounted them in the van.
The little one (24″) I have in my toolbag.
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Nice addition there mate 😉
Only because of your help! 🙂
Fixed the pictures. Also I made some new ones today.
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I am running out of space, but I got almost everything in there that I need.
Just a little modification I will do once I get some new tools that are still on my list.
Totally awesome man..I’m not into vans but I lobe yours. So we notice the step ladder in the back and I know you have seen the new dewalt ladder? Kinda pricey but hard not to have in a set up like that?
Thanks Quig. Yes, I have seen the new DeWALT stepladders and have thought about it.
The price is ok, but then comes the shipping. That will be almost the same if not more than the inital cost. Add to that the taxes which our customs so lovely charges on both the items value AND the shippingcosts and it will turn out to be one very expensive ladder.
The other thing is, the stepladder I have now is used to build around it. If you see the left rear door, when closed it all just fits with very little space. The little toughcase on the door for example just sits between 2 steps and the drywall squares are also placed so that the (added) handles just sits between the steps. For that I would need to get a DeWALT ladder with exactly the same dimensions. On top of that, I like the double stepladders better and DeWALT only have single stepladders to date.
They do look great and have a good rating. I don’t know if it will conflict with regulations for climbing materials over here. Might be an issue?!
Mr. Yellow where did you get those Caulk tube holders. I’m in bad need of something just like that.
I got mine from a company called Integro Groep here in the Netherlands.
They are specialized in vehicle equipment / van storage.
Normally the holders are grey, but I had them powdercoated in black.
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http://www.integro-groep.nl/pg-23653-7-39587/pagina/bedrijfswageninrichting_accessoires.html
Hope this helps.
Absolutely stunning there Mr Yellow, you must be very proud of all your hard work, looks wicked.
Could I ask where you got the following items installed in your van…
1. The mounting nuts & bolt seen here for holding the saw blades as arrowed below.
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2. The sprung loaded poles you probably use to hold cargo in place & also what is the case arrowed & do you know a part number.
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3. And lastly, I am interested to know where this fixing (arrowed below) you used on the racking system was from.
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Many thanks in advance. ;);D
Hello Steveo205 or Mr. Arrow ;D
Thanks for the nice words. Indeed I am proud of the result. It’s still a joy to use 🙂
To answer your questions…
1.The nut and bolt which hold the saw blades. The bolt is a regular M14 bolt.
The flange on which the blade is sitting is a flange from the DWS780 mitersaw (= also the same flange from a DW718 for example) You can take just about any flange as long as the bore size from the blade is the same. In my case it’s 30mm (which is the same on 305mm and 250mm sawblades. On the picture it is holding 250mm blades from the tablesaw)
Partnumber for the DeWALT flange is : N081035 (Europe) or 644999-00 (US)
Then I had an M14 nut welded on the back. This nut suits 2 purposes. 1. to fix the flange to make it easier when storing a blade, 2. to secure the bolt.
To lock the blade I use a keyless lock nut. They are specifically designed for use with angled grinders, but for storing sawblades it works equally well. This is also the reason why I choose an M14 bolt as the thread on angled grinders is also M14 = the same as the keyless lock nut. Well, at least in Europe. Not sure about US…
For the keyless locking nut you can take any brand. I know Bosch sells them. I used the ones from Interdynamics as they are cheaper. There are a variety of brands selling these. If you need helping locating, just ask.
Actually DeWALT just came out with one of their own. It’s quite pricey though, so for storage use just take a cheaper model.
Here’s a close up so you can see the welded nut on the back
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This is the keyless locking nut (M14)
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2. The sprung-loaded poles I got through our fastener supplier, Wurth. It’s part of their Orsy Mobil catalogue.
Partnumber is 0963 99 011. They had a great deal for this set around the time I was building the van. It comes with 4 airline rails.
You should be able to get something similar from any company that specializes in van storage or cargo/load fastening for vans/trucks.
The organizer is from Stanley (Fatmax), modelnr. 1-94-746. They are sold in packs of 3.
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3. The fixing mount for the aluminum tube is from De Melker, a Dutch company. I bought them here http://metaalwinkel-metalen.nl/Muur+en+vloer+flenzen+Aluminium+vierkantebuis.mw (last one on the page)
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Hope this helps 🙂
Brilliant, thanks very much Mr Yellow, much appreciated. ;D
You’re welcome. What are you building/gonna build?
Hi, Im a newbie to this thread. Can i ask where you got your van ceiling lights. They look really bright.
Thanks
Hi,
I got them from a company in my country that specializes in van/camper equipment.
They are led lights. It was because of this and the small form factor (under 20mm in height) that I used these. They are really bright.
The company no longer sells these though. I guess you best have a look on Google or eBay for RV/camper led ceiling lights.
About a week ago I ordered the Prazi Beam Cutter from the US. Merely because recently we had to cut some oak beams. We borrowed a big Protool beam saw (CCP380) for that. It worked perfectly, but I got curious to see what kind of solutions there are for cutting beams, from a regular chainsaw (freehanding) to beam saws and big circular saws. I prefer a beam saw, but found that only Mafell sells models with enough capacity to cut in one pass. As for the price, a total dealbreaker. Way too expensive unless this kind of work becomes pretty much a daily routine.
So I came across the Beam Cutter from Prazi. Ok, there’s a big difference between a dedicated beam saw and this add-on, but for the quantity we do I guess this will cut it 😉
Even if not for beams, the added capacity will come in handy for other materials.
The thing was delivered today and I mounted it on my DWE576. It’s basically the same as the DWE575 with a different base that can be used with the guiderails. They don’t sell the DWE576 in the US though. Then again, we don’t have the DWE575SB (wonder why that electric brake is not common on all circular saws. I don’t mind paying a bit more for such a feature)
Anyway, I will have to do a little modification to get the chain 90degree to the base. That sliding bar at the rear of the beam cutter is just 15mm too short for my saw to set it at the right angle, but it seems it can easily be fixed. Will give it a go next week and see how it works with the guiderail.
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Now I have seen everything. That is the craziest saw I have ever seen. I didn’t know such a thing existed. And it attaches to a track saw!
I also really like your van. Very inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
Just curious Mr Yellow,meow is that Prazi working out? I was thinking about getting one at some point and have seen mixed reviews.
There used to be a company that built log cabins here. I don’t know which saw was cooler, their Mafell beam saw or the Mikita 16 in circ saw.
Thanks Brien. I have a dedicated tracksaw (plungesaw) but figured if I gonna use the Prazi attachment I will benefit from a guiderail. So I choose the DWE576. It attaches to just about any 7-1/4″ circular saw. I came across this beam cutter a few years ago, but forgot about it until I searched for alternatives for beams saws just recently.
@ChrisK1970. I still have to try it, but first I need to make a modification to that I can align it properly.
I have also read mixed reviews. It’s not really a precision tool ofcourse. It’s still a chainsaw, but I’ve seen some video’s on YouTube that got me interested. However, a lot of reviews seem from the previous model (PR-2000) and Prazi claims on their website this new model has improved accuracy. One thing I wish they kept from the previous model is the lever for fine adjustment of the chain tension.
@RedSionnach. Now that I’ve worked with the Protool beam saw for the first time, I like it. Mafell has some great beam saws, but the prices over here start at €5000,- and upwards. They do have a model with dual 3000W motors. Not the kind of saw you want to experience kickback with 😉
Very nice van set-up
Mr. Yellow wrote:
Thanks Brien. I have a dedicated tracksaw (plungesaw) but figured if I gonna use the Prazi attachment I will benefit from a guiderail. So I choose the DWE576. It attaches to just about any 7-1/4″ circular saw. I came across this beam cutter a few years ago, but forgot about it until I searched for alternatives for beams saws just recently.
@ChrisK1970. I still have to try it, but first I need to make a modification to that I can align it properly.
I have also read mixed reviews. It’s not really a precision tool ofcourse. It’s still a chainsaw, but I’ve seen some video’s on YouTube that got me interested. However, a lot of reviews seem from the previous model (PR-2000) and Prazi claims on their website this new model has improved accuracy. One thing I wish they kept from the previous model is the lever for fine adjustment of the chain tension.
@RedSionnach. Now that I’ve worked with the Protool beam saw for the first time, I like it. Mafell has some great beam saws, but the prices over here start at €5000,- and upwards. They do have a model with dual 3000W motors. Not the kind of saw you want to experience kickback with 😉
I will say Festool is coming out with a saw that is the same idea and is similar to Maffell’s set up maybe a LITTLE cheaper :). Clicks right on to your Festool rail and bzzzzzzzzz looks pretty sweet too. But your dead on about the price….yowza
Thanks Regopit! 🙂
I think you mean the SSU200 from Festool? They are already selling those in Europe. (Previous Protool tool)
They have 2 models. The SSU200 with a maximum cutting depth of 200mm. The IS330 has 330mm, but you cannot use it for wood. Only for insulation.
Protool did have a bigger model, much like the Mafell. I wonder if Festool will relaunch those?!
I have seen some videos from the SSU200. It’s great saw and really the only ‘affordable’ swordsaw as they call it over here.
There’s a big gap between that and Mafell. Some manufacturer should jump in…
The story continues…
I made a bracket to align the saw 90° to the base. Also had to adjust the bevel at 0°. Not much, but it needed a little twist of the bottom screw. Glad that DeWALT saw can be adjusted like that.
I choose to have as much depth as possible while maintaining at least a 45° bevel option. When mounting it lower, it decreases the bevel angle. On the highest position you loose a little on the depth of cut, like 20mm or so, but you can make use of the full 57° bevel angle of the saw. Only just, but you can.
I might go that route later.
So when all was done and everything tightened I just let it spin. At first it did not spin as smooth as I thought. The manual says there is no need for oil as it runs much slower than a chainsaw. Just some silicone spray or WD40 every 10-15 cuts to keep things sharp and running.
Found it a bit odd. So I put some chainsaw oil on it and tadaa, it runs noticable smoother.
So I wanted an oiler on there and found one of those aftermarket chain oil systems for motorcycles. So I got that and mounted it yesterday.
Works great, but the tip that shoots the oil on the chain and sprocket needs some fine adjustment.
It’s a manual system. By pulling the plug on top of the reservoir it shoots out some oil. You can control the amount by pulling the plug a little bit or all the way out (which is too much, since it is designed for motorcycle chains). I found later that the company is selling a smaller model for mopeds/bicycles which perhaps would have fitted better. But this works and I’m not gonna change it as the oiler is more expensive than the Prazi is 😛
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So next I replaced one of the zero clearance anti splinter strip on the short track. Little problem maybe is that the chain on the circular saw is further to the outside than a regular blade so I had to put the anti splinter strip 5mm further across the edge of the track.
Then I did some cutting on an oak beam. Mind you, I didn’t use clamps with the track (too lazy to take them out), but I’ll do some more testing with the clamps soon.
It’s not bad at all, but I think it can be a bit better. Especially the end grain. I need to adjust the tension also. I ran into a problem with the chain that came with it (bought 2 spares as well). When I rotate it by hand the tension varies from tight (how it should be) to loose. I didn’t notice this problem with the spare chain. FYI, the beam cutter chains are from Oregon. So spares shouldn’t be a problem. I hope a different chain might give a nicer cut though. The regular chain is for both cross cutting and ripping. I just don’t know if there are chains specifically for cross-cutting?! Bit of chainsaw noob here 😉
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Start of cut
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Top of cut (with guiderail / without clamps)
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Back of cut (exit saw)
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End grain
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There are specific chains for ripping. I think the rakers are different. Though they are made for mills, not recommended for handheld due to harsh kickback. I don’t know how it would work with a beam saw. Since you’re new to chain you may want to give this page a read.
Thanks for that link RedSionnach! This will surely help me understand the basics of chainsaw chains
I’ll have a read.
Awwww man don’t give me any ideas ull, wife hates when I buy tools…lol. I try to tell her u can’t have enough tools they are an investment….
Can you make movie of the Beam Cutter on the dwe576, so we can see it i action? Looking nice…
I’ll see what I can do…
I recently finished some shelves so that saw now fits in the van without taking the Beam Cutter of.
Today I finally rearranged the wiring for the lightning and put it all in a nice aluminum housing with din rail terminals. Did away with the crappy luster terminals. Better connections and very easy to expand or make changes.
Also added the DeWALT 12V car charger with a little modification. I’ll be adding a 2nd one, but I need to put a wire in from the dashboard to the back so the chargers are only powered when the ignition is on. Right now it’s just on/off with a build in switch, but surely I’ll forget it sometime when I park the van so the next morning I’ll have a full DeWALT battery and an empty car battery 😀
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all I can say is………………WOOOOOOOW!!!…………
Where’d you get the cabinet from?
Which cabinet are you referring to?
Mostly the larger one on the left side that the Tough System is mounted in but I do like the one on the right as well for smaller storage.
Ah like that. I made those myself so it would suit my (storage) needs. Especially for the ToughSystem racking you need to make something as there isn’t any prefab solution.
Impressive. What is that in the bottom exactly? It looks like it folds out for more storage?
On the left? Those are shelves actually where I store the guiderails from my tracksaw.
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Mr. Yellow wrote:
On the left? Those are shelves actually where I store the guiderails from my tracksaw.
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Ahhhh, I see it now. So you just used BC plywood or CDX with Aluminim Channel on the edge for a finish? Did you paint it black or is it a different type of coating or laminate/Melamine?
very freakin cool Mr.Yellow
yeah I like it too – great job
Thanks guys!
@RickyMcGrath. I used shuttering plywood (concrete form) with aluminum corner guard as a finish. The flooring is also shuttering plywood, but with an anti-slip mesh which is often used for flooring in vans and trailers. Nothing is painted though.
This seems to be the place to talk about Tough boxes Home Depot and Dewalt have a decent deal going on with a Drill and Impact driver kit in a toughbox for 199. that’s not bad considering a compact tough box is $50. Your really buying the drill and impact for 150. They also have other tools offered in this fashion tool like the new compact cordless recip saw. http://www.homedepot.com/s/dewalt%2520tough?NCNI-5&AID=11210757&PID=6147012&SID=16gsiumcxyril&cm_mmc=CJ-_-6147012-_-11210757&cj=true
Nice find I’m glad there starting to offer the tough boxes but wish they would’ve had that when I pus chased mine :/
I didn’t notice till now the drill is the DCD 771 the budget $99 dollar drill they sell on the holidays. The impact driver is their standard bushed unit which makes it not as bad. You could always sell the 771 and get a bare DCD 780. I wonder if it comes with 1.5 or 1.3 amp hour batteries the budget kit comes with 1.3 and a slower compact charger. The other weird thing is they have 7 of these at the HD that is closest to me. Only one other HD in the area has them. My store is kinda weird they get new products in really quick.
1.3 Ah
Yea I noticed that 2 man I miss my dcd780 DR I sold it to my bro for like 60 bucks with batt and charger though I have my brushless versions there just something about the 780 being so compact and pretty powerful. I wanna buy it again to keep in my truck just incase I ever get my truck broken into it won’t hurt as much if it were to be my dcd995
im trying to buy a brand new bosch impactor on craigslist, but that guy takes 4ever to write back – no phone number, just mails