phffter wrote:
1 hour ago, phffter said:busy week, havent had time to do anything, till tonight. tub set, secured, and screwed to studs. small bathroom, stud to stud is 60 3/4” width. tub is 60. notched the fixture side studs 1/4” for the tub, had to attach nailer studs to back side, 1” out.
as far as setting the tub, discussed this with the in house plumber, 2 carpenters, 3 fitters, 2 electricians, 4 engineers. all agreed on plumbers suggestion, which was NOT to use mortar or construction adhesive. the compound used was ‘window’ great stuff.
worked real good, tub now has a blanket in it, protecting it by all the tool boxes i threw in there to weigh it down. i also bought a lyons tub, as rrich did.
world series on, in between peeks at the blackhawks game.
i’ll finish the plumbing tomorrow, after work.
im surprised that no one recommend either mortar or adhesive. even the directions from lyons states to use either or for installation. I had read that the window great stuff wasn’t proper to use as it put pressure onto the tub when it expanded rather than just filling the empty area.
Yeah, interesting on the great stuff foam use. I still have to trust what I know to work very well and will continue to because there are some tubs with funky bottoms with supporting pieces side by side and could get expanded a little and I don’t want any extra drama in my life… still standing by the mortar on plastic method.
if it turns out well, that’s great!
KnarlyCarl wrote:
Yeah, interesting on the great stuff foam use. I still have to trust what I know to work very well and will continue to because there are some tubs with funky bottoms with supporting pieces side by side and could get expanded a little and I don’t want any extra drama in my life… still standing by the mortar on plastic method.
if it turns out well, that’s great!
For what it’s worth, our 1 piece original showers had/have foam under them. House was built in 85.
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rrich1 wrote:
5 hours ago, rrich1 said:
For what it’s worth, our 1 piece original showers had/have foam under them. House was built in 85.
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You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set?
KnarlyCarl wrote:
You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set?
I would assume.
I could still do it in my bath if I wanted. I have left the right wall without drywall right now due to it being easier to access both sides to build the niche. I would squeeze in and spray foam in.
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KnarlyCarl wrote:
12 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:You would need access behind the tub yes? To put the foam under once the tub is set?
plop it done after squirting the foam. have the tub nearly in position, up on blocks, use 1/4 poly tubing to extend the nozzle. the 6” supplied nozzle aint long enuff.
10 hours at work today, and,
drain and water done. have to redo tub drain, chinese supplied rubber gasket leaks.
mebbe a pic tomorrow
world series on
phffter wrote:
plop it done after squirting the foam. have the tub nearly in position, up on blocks, use 1/4 poly tubing to extend the nozzle. the 6” supplied nozzle aint long enuff.
10 hours at work today, and,
drain and water done. have to redo tub drain, chinese supplied rubber gasket leaks.
mebbe a pic tomorrow
world series on
Did you use any plumbers putty above the tub to the drain? My kit didn’t say to use it but it leaks without it. Try that first and I bet you will be fine. Did you buy the Lyons linear tub? That was the one we got. Had to get an6″extension tube as well.
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rrich1 wrote:
5 minutes ago, rrich1 said:
Did you use any plumbers putty above the tub to the drain? My kit didn’t say to use it but it leaks without it. Try that first and I bet you will be fine. Did you buy the Lyons linear tub? That was the one we got. Had to get an6″extension tube as well.
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used whatever drain assembly menards had that fit. plumbers putty under the drain, inside the tub. seems the rubber gasket, under the tub is leaking. i put it in dry, going to put some vacuum grease on it tomorrow.
bought the tub from menards also.i forget which model,
phffter wrote:
29 minutes ago, phffter said:used whatever drain assembly menards had that fit. plumbers putty under the drain, inside the tub. seems the rubber gasket, under the tub is leaking. i put it in dry, going to put some vacuum grease on it tomorrow.
bought the tub from menards also.i forget which model,
I always use silicon, got tired of plumbers putty causing issues where I know I could count on caulk. Haven’t touched the putty for 5 years by now I think. I’ve moved on.
Also apply thread sealant to the tub drain piece threads where it threads into the bottom side piece.
plumbing done.
thanks carl, used your suggestion, silicone and dope. and vacuum grease on the rubber.
walls shimmed out as needed, eliminated two jointed corners by building out the entire non plumbing wall. added blocking to support wall hangers. added blocking, for where im going to transition between cement board and greenboard, to hide that ‘seam’ under tile. need to finish hanging plastic in the shower/tub area, and then time to rock.
Is the plastic meant to be a vapor barrier? If so you’re not planning to waterproof the cement board are you?
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made large strides today.
cut/installed all the dur rock in tub stall.
installed bottom course of green board on both walls.
yanked the crapper, installed the floor tile.
got half down, and noticed it was the wrong color.
awaiting mortar to set up, so i can close that window, which i see will be a ‘of’ to finish.
btw, used a new bosch 7” wet saw blade, bought at cripe, in my hf beam wet saw.
blade was exceptional. the hf ones i originally used, chipped tiles.
pics to come later.
also……………. thought that by tearing out the plaster and installing 1/2 rock, i could squeeze a bigger vanity (24”) in.
nope. still too tight. a 21 would have kinda worked, but very special order.
special ordered 18” vanity and top. you do not want to know the $
good to hear.
I know the woes of a vanity and top price. I am building my vanity but ordered the cultured marble top. I priced out lowes, hd, and menards. I was able to get it from shrocks for half the price.
schrock makes nice cabinets. ours is a schrock. 4 weeks away. top is 4 weeks away
i can make the vanity, just aint got the time, or, with the coming winter, the room to run a table saw. (coronet is taking up a bay)
grouted floor, wiped glaze 2x.
crapper gets reinstalled tomorrow. may reinstall old vanity/sink/faucet temporarily.
i guess, the next thing to tackle would be ripping out the door frame, and fit new jamb boards in. exist trim is pine, pine door latch area busted. installing oak jams and a 6 panel door.. need to get the oak trim up, before i can tile (up to them). cant tile walls till i get vanity
i might be able to tile tub area.
still have 2 partial sheets of greenboard to hang also
i aint forgot about the job. been catching up on battening down the hatches for the rapidly approaching winter, in addition to still working o/t.
leaf blower bought. neighbors leaves blown (i shoulda blew them back into his yard where they came from), coupla lights replaced in carage. reused electric roof heaters, ran thru gutters and downspouts. (originally some was on roof, just had roof redone). gazebo fabric and screens stowed. coronet stored. shit in shed and carage moved around for the seasons.
still gotta check snow blower!
anyways. floor done. drywall/dur rock done. electric done. medicine cabinet hung, and rehung to make placement more better.
the exposed raw corners taped and mudded, 2nd coat. walla walla marked as to where the accent tile lines will go.
old door jamb still in.
you guys know what it looks like, so no pics.
finishing that window still seems like a pia. i hope i can cut 3/4” wide pieces of ‘fill’ tile.
used a ‘new’ screw for the cement board. wide countersunk #2 square drive head. they seem ok, except whatever process the chinese use to coat them, seems to fill the drive hole on every second screw i pick up. especially when trying to sink a screw while holding a panel, a third hand would be really nice. wound up using a drywall screw for the 1st couple of fasteners per panel. these i will take a pic of, and i will not recommend them for their intended use. .
these
and i did find time to buy some new tools. a dewalt die grinder from amazon, and a knipex branded jerman made 5 piece screw extractor set from tool topia.
Really got a lot on your plate! Thanks for warning us about the screws, that’s pretty bad
I think you are going to beat me!
I used those same screws and didn’t have any issues.
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i dumped out a large handful, as seen in the background, in front of the box. i easily found 8 screws that had too much ‘goop’ on them.i attempted to clear out the stuff, was able to do so on 4. the others got tossed.
and, the wall tile with the accent. the mrs picked them out.
im color blind, she assures me they’ll look great.
going to cut the accent tile down into 3 tile widths. and have a double band. seperated by 1 course of grey.
Back in 84 I had a boss that was color blind. He told a story about how he had gone down to the local paint store and picked out a nice soft green for his bedroom walls. He was just finishing up the second wall when behind him he hears his sister exclaim, “Oh my GAWD, what the @#%^ are you doing”. He turned around and said to her, “It’s not green is it”. She in turn responded, “It’s Hot PINK!!”. He said that was the last time he tried to pick a color on his own.
That should look good. It is very close to what we are doing actually! I’ll post up a pic in my thread here in a bit.
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just pharting around, had my ‘device’ replaced thursday.
resanding, recoating over the past few days. the premixed mud is taking forever to dry. started looking for the (i know i have 2 partial bags) of ’20’ compound. can’t find, and i aint gonna buy a 3rd bag to misplace. found a small amount of ‘5’ compound. turns out it’s more like 5 HOURS!. got it primered, and found alot of imperfection. flat paint hides alot.
been hashing out in my mind the next step.
chest is still sore from vfd upgrade.
built a visqueen cocoon around the wetsaw in the basement to keep the mess down, and started with the tile.
been awake many a night figuring where the lines all go, to even all them out. aint got the vanity, that’s the starting point.
started at the far end of the tub, used my laser level for a line, worked my way around. the first course, up, around, and down, took too long. whole tiles, go up as fast as possum shit. stopped when i ran out of mixed mortar, and my knees were complaining.
hole sawed the tile for the tub valve, cut a bunch of little guy trim pieces.
whaddya think of her color choices?
there will be a second accent line, above the tile over the 1st accent, all the way around.
Colors look good. Any reason why you didnt tape the seams and mortar them before tiling?
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rrich1 wrote:
9 hours ago, rrich1 said:Colors look good. Any reason why you didnt tape the seams and mortar them before tiling?
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any reason to as in why do it?
phffter wrote:
1 hour ago, phffter said:any reason to as in why do it?
If the pros are correct, that’s what I see them doing, must be for a good waterproofing seal behind the tile
KnarlyCarl wrote:
2 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:If the pros are correct, that’s what I see them doing, must be for a good waterproofing seal behind the tile
we covered this topic at work. two carpenters, 1 painter, 1 plumber, 4 engineers. a couple of ’em own rentals.
consensus was ‘it ‘ll be fine’. durock is porous. mudding those seams wont add much, if anything.
+ both baths i demo’ed in this house, 1 was green board, the other plaster, with no barrier, the walls were not damaged. same with the 2 baths in a previous house.
+ i’m leaving this overtaxed state in 3 years. it’ll be fine.
+ i aint a pro.
phffter wrote:
1 hour ago, phffter said:…..
+ i’m leaving this overtaxed state in 3 years. it’ll be fine.
Lol Illinois I knew it!!
phffter wrote:
we covered this topic at work. two carpenters, 1 painter, 1 plumber, 4 engineers. a couple of ’em own rentals.
consensus was ‘it ‘ll be fine’. durock is porous. mudding those seams wont add much, if anything.
+ both baths i demo’ed in this house, 1 was green board, the other plaster, with no barrier, the walls were not damaged. same with the 2 baths in a previous house.
+ i’m leaving this overtaxed state in 3 years. it’ll be fine.
+ i aint a pro.
Unless you are adding membrane to the walls, mudding it wouldn’t do a a whole lot. Waterproofing is all or nothing.
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phffter wrote:
any reason to as in why do it?
Basically for strength. Same reason to tape drywall. I’m sure it will be fine like you stated in another post. Just thought I would ask.
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KnarlyCarl wrote:
On 11/27/2016 at 8:35 AM, KnarlyCarl said:If the pros are correct, that’s what I see them doing, must be for a good waterproofing seal behind the tile
well, to prove im not a complete hack, broke down and bought a tub of spreadable membrane. the little window ledge has been bothering me, especially at 3 in the morning when im trying to sleep. painted the 3/4” ledge around the window, and whatever i didnt tile on the wall around the window
now, that i have the goo, i shoulda spread it all over the shower stall.
probably will have a 7/8 full tub of hardeded crap next time i open it.
damn, have i been busy.
anyways, got the ceiling finally done. laying out the window was a minor pia. a few imperfections, i’ll live with them. pobably wold have been easier using bullnose trim tile, instead of schulter trim. looks good, she likes it, and the window will be covered with a shower curtain most of the time anyway. another thing i learned, was not to start at both ends. lines matched up pretty good, except one spot. oh well, i aint tearing it all apart tomorrow, pull the sticks. finish a bazillion other minor things that have been on hold. next, i HAVE to tackle the door.
Awesome, I was wondering what your next steps were going to be, that’s quite the dedication to installing tile! I say if I can get it to spray hot water on me and drain away properly without leaking around on the floor, i’ll be good, that’s why I never look into doing tile LOL!! Just give me an old basement shower with concrete floor, with the above requirements met and i’ll be good hah!
I’ve seen windows in showers before, always wondered if water would build up in the channel, grow a new breed of mold or not…..
KnarlyCarl wrote:
15 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:Awesome, I was wondering what your next steps were going to be, that’s quite the dedication to installing tile! I say if I can get it to spray hot water on me and drain away properly without leaking around on the floor, i’ll be good, that’s why I never look into doing tile LOL!! Just give me an old basement shower with concrete floor, with the above requirements met and i’ll be good hah!
I’ve seen windows in showers before, always wondered if water would build up in the channel, grow a new breed of mold or not…..
one of the many things figgered out at 3 in the morning when i should be asleep.
channel is installed, away from the water direction, except the top one, if that makes any sense. would have been way easier to take out the window, but, that would have opened another can of worms.
looks nice, pia (to me) to layout.
Looks great! I redid my sisters bathroom last winter with my dad and this winter we are planning on doing ours. Its definitely not a quick or easy process!!!
looks good, I love a tiled bathroom 2 out of three of our bathrooms are done in some kind of tile. The main floor bathroom was tricky because my wife wanted a straight walk in with no lip on floor….and no doors on the shower like the old country……so I had to lower the floor in the shower area…still have one more bathroom to go
Looking good. I finally started my shower wall Thursday. Got two rows in. Im not doing the ceiling though.
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sitting around, decompressing. long day, as most lately have been.
dishwasher died, new is in. i wanted to replace the electric whip, didnt want to ‘tim taylor’ another project.
snowblower died, 2 stroke single action toro lasted 17 years. replaced with a 4 stroke single.
old door and jamb out. new jamb and 6 panel door in. room side oak trimmed.
just got done tiling the back wall, where the towel bar will hang.
cheated a bit with left over oak. seems the gap between the door molding and the tile would have been about 9/16.
i think i ‘hid’ it pretty good. too pooped to snap pics, ill get some soon.
( door jambs were hung to the same plumb of the original. new door seemed to have an automatic closer. carpenter gave me a tip, slight bend to a hinge pin. it stays open now)
towel bar and coat hook will go somewhere in the tile course between the accents
any input on a door stop? install a springy on the door, on the wall, on the floor, or those ones that install on the hinges?
Looks great! Try the hing thing first. Could always try the ones that are door knob height. Use some double sided tape to attach it.
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a little background.
i usually buy materials for a job, sometimes months before i start a project. except , of course, the vanity and top for this job. usually start the project when i get tired of tripping over stuff.
started grouting the tub. seeing how much grout the accent tile and the gaps were eating, decided to check where the bags of grout were hidden. turns out i only bought 1 10# bag. very unusual for me, im the guy who needs 2 gallons of paint and i buy 4 (ya never know when ya might need it). no biggie. drive past tile store…………… color was discontinued last month.
they had 6 other shades of grey (not 50, heh heh). momma picked one. im going to NOT remove what ive already done. finish the 1st row of accent from the top in the shower stall, save a little grout, and then mix both together to finish.
phffter wrote:
9 hours ago, phffter said:a little background.
i usually buy materials for a job, sometimes months before i start a project. except , of course, the vanity and top for this job. usually start the project when i get tired of tripping over stuff.
started grouting the tub. seeing how much grout the accent tile and the gaps were eating, decided to check where the bags of grout were hidden. turns out i only bought 1 10# bag. very unusual for me, im the guy who needs 2 gallons of paint and i buy 4 (ya never know when ya might need it). no biggie. drive past tile store…………… color was discontinued last month.
they had 6 other shades of grey (not 50, heh heh). momma picked one. im going to NOT remove what ive already done. finish the 1st row of accent from the top in the shower stall, save a little grout, and then mix both together to finish.
I had bought 1 bag for the floor and 1 for the walls as well. I plan to start grouting tomorrow and was going to get another bag of each. can always take it back if not needed.
phffter wrote:
On 12/18/2016 at 8:01 AM, phffter said:a little background.
i usually buy materials for a job, sometimes months before i start a project. except , of course, the vanity and top for this job. usually start the project when i get tired of tripping over stuff.
started grouting the tub. seeing how much grout the accent tile and the gaps were eating, decided to check where the bags of grout were hidden. turns out i only bought 1 10# bag. very unusual for me, im the guy who needs 2 gallons of paint and i buy 4 (ya never know when ya might need it). no biggie. drive past tile store…………… color was discontinued last month.
they had 6 other shades of grey (not 50, heh heh). momma picked one. im going to NOT remove what ive already done. finish the 1st row of accent from the top in the shower stall, save a little grout, and then mix both together to finish.
Say it’s not so!!! Hopefully doesn’t stick out too badly with the different color
Looking good.
I suggest the sponges with one side as a scrubber. They work so much better than the normal sponges.
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annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd done!
caulked, wall hangers up. just need HER to get off her ass to clean the floor and i can chalk the commode.
brats can bathe/shower tomorrow
Awesome! I’m working on putting the shower stuff in right now and then caulking. The drawer fronts can wait.
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rrich1 wrote:
7 hours ago, rrich1 said:Awesome! I’m working on putting the shower stuff in right now and then caulking. The drawer fronts can wait.
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Speaking of caulking, I used to hate it then I found a trick along these lines and love how it turns out since doing it this way
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