Main Bath Gut

well, finally going to kick off, taking off the week starting 10/10. just bought the tub. been sitting on the tile (wall, floor, and accent) for awhile. have the faucets, towel racks. havent developed a plan for vanity and wall hanger(s). don’t know yet how much room i’ll pick up with the new tub and new walls. existing is plaster over gypsum board.

existing door is a fubar hollow pine, half painted by previous owner, with frame painted on hall side, lousy stain + finish on the room side. i have the new oak 6 panel door stained, urethaned, drilled and hinges routed, along with the frame.not sure what the wall thickness will be, may have to cut down the 6” oak frame boards.  new bosch wet saw blades, as the hf blades i used for the master bath last year are junk. new carbide holesaws, pilot bits. plenty of copper and pvc fittings and pipe on hand. subfloor, cement board, green board on hand. may not have enough green board, havent decided if im opening the ceiling. new phart fan, reuse commode, as it’s only 3 years young.plenty of conduit, boxes, covers. although i dont think i’ll change the existing, as it was in pipe already, and i’ve redone the wiring a few years ago. got the insulation to stuff the outside wall, have plenty of visqueen. hmmmmmmmmm………………. what could go wrong?

lol something always pops up but it’s still exciting when starting new projects keep us posted!

Keep us posted

Awesome.  Keep us posted.

Looking forward to seeing your progress

I’m taking off the 17-20 for the same thing. Still need to get cement board and red guard, fixtures (picked out just not bought). Have you looked into schluter ditra for the floor if you are re tiling it? Good luck to you.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

rrich1 wrote:

8 hours ago, rrich1 said:

I’m taking off the 17-20 for the same thing. Still need to get cement board and red guard, fixtures (picked out just not bought). Have you looked into schluter ditra for the floor if you are re tiling it? Good luck to you.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
nope. putting down 3/4 luan. it’s tough, unflexible, solid

ive done it before, several baths, no problems.

plus, i dont plan on living here more than 5 years. property taxes are getting silly stupid, and once illynois ever passes a budget, the screws will be really turned.

i see you’re also in madiganistan, you know whats happening here

phffter wrote:

 

rrich1 wrote:

3 hours ago, rrich1 said:

Yup. I hate this state but we aren’t going anywhere.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

3 years min. 5 years max, and it’s adios.

going to head a little south. kentucky, tenn, mizzeri, arkansaw.

and, to take advantage of a semi full garbage bin, starting taking the tile down. coulda used a butter knife, it came off so easy. filled 2 buckets and threw it in the trash. put plastic up. demo in full swing satterday

Good deal! That is the part I am dreading. I need to call for my dumpster tomorrow.

Where are you located? Pm me if you want.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

rrich1 wrote:

23 hours ago, rrich1 said:

Good deal! That is the part I am dreading. I need to call for my dumpster tomorrow.

Where are you located? Pm me if you want.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

dupage

phffter wrote:

dupage

just a little romp down 57

project underway. a couple of surprises, no big deal.

this has to be the 3rd bath to be installed. previous guy piped copper directly into the galvanized. no di electric.

there’s a course of green board to about 4′ off the floor.

upper is plaster over wire mesh.      aaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh!

thought it was all plaster over gypsum board

hopefully you will get all the problems fixed.

well, the mesh is a bigger pia to tear out than i thought.

2/3 done. there is alot of debris at the wall cavities bottoms from the plaster.

i definitely am NOT tearing down the ceiling. waaaay too much mess. 

i never checked for plumb/square/level walls. seems to be a wide range of dimensions.

cast iron tub, no claw feet. whaddya think? a coupla whacks with a sledge? or try to saw it?

Sledge will probably be quicker even with carbide blades cast iron is a PITA to cut.

nothing done today. had to play social director for mrs phffter.

hope to have gutted what i want to gut tomorrow.

not tearing into the ceiling, and i dont think im taking down the entry side wall

Throw a heavy drop cloth in the tub before you have at it with a sledge. When cast shatters it goes everywhere, be sure to wear eye protection… Post some pics when you get the chance man,,,, 

Like Mikeyb mentioned cast iron can be some nasty stuff.

yes. i thought about the shrapnel.

how about cutting it with a cutoff wheel in a metabo?

phffter wrote:

49 minutes ago, phffter said:

yes. i thought about the shrapnel.

how about cutting it with a cutoff wheel in a metabo?

Carbide blades are junk on cast. Only time I have ever cut cast is on pipe. Best method for me was skilsaw with a cutoff wheel. A grinder with a cutoff wheel should do the trick as well.

Bob, any chance of you renting a Evolution saw near you? They are cold cut saws for metal. (Very little sparking) I have the Evolution chop saw and it cuts through everything metal, no-hub, kindorf, angle iron, cast, etc. Not sure if they make grinders? 

Google Evolution saws and check out their website. 

Maybe this is a good opportunity to buy a new tool? Lol 

3 out of 4 walls out.

tub is out.

i now see they put a sub floor over the sub floor for the 2” oak t&g (trashed). now i know why i couldn’t pull off the mesh at the walls bottom. (held in by floors) need now to get 2 more sheets of 3/4 plywood.

filled 30 buckets with concrete (plaster) and dust. what a frikkin mess i made. boy1helped tremendously, ecept he forgot to check the shop vac’s filter and blew more dust than he picked up. plan is today finish tearout, set plywood and luan. get toilet functional.

also discovered my shack’s age, seeing the date on tub bottom.

subfloor, over subfloor, over subfloor, is in.

krapper reinstalled.completion of tearout tomorrow, at least the dust will be contained.

fwiw, the slats that supported the oak, over the 1×6 subfloor, were cedar.

only 2 days behind schedule.

also signed contract for new roof today

just have to gut the pseudo soffit i hung ten years ago. trim out some more mesh. luckily, it only bit me once.

See that mess is starting to give me some anxiety about my bathroom gut next week! I hadn’t planned to tear down our ceiling but I think i am going to now. House was built in 85 and nails used instead of screws. They are popping and I think it would be almost as easy to tear down, replace, and mud than it would be to try and fix it all.

Glad you aren’t too far behind schedule.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

shoot a screw near each nail. pop/pry out the nails. saves tearing down the rock.

window frame is 1 1/2 deeper than the wall.i want that 1 1/2.

how to trim down, without taking window out of walla walla?

circ saw, recip, jig, hammer and sharp chisel? no. tried them all.

luckily, i remembered i have a lancealot chainsaw for a side grinder. took the 4 sides down in 15 minutes.

last mess i will make, yippee

and, why is it, when i need a specific tool, it is ALWAYS in the absolute bottom of a gangbox covered by everything else?

my ‘shop’ looks akin to a lego disaster by a 5 year old

I don’t have one but I’ve heard the Lancelot Woodcarving Disc is a nice addition for a grinder.

Sounds and looks like you’ve got alot of work done.

I’ll be watching this post for updates.

keep getting delayed, and distracted. outside wall is insulated, visqueen up.

began installing sleeper studs for wall because of raised height of floor.

knees are hurting, so i think thats it for the night.

putting tools away is becoming a chore, but has to be done so i can find whatever whenever. getting tired of buying shit because i cant find it..

may rough in the water supplies tomorrow, and decide which drain/vent lines to change.

anyone know if it’s ok to use a rubber coupling on waste/vent behind a wall? if i can’t/shouldn’t, that will shorten the list

major snafu………….. floor is a little out, running down from outside wall to center of house. not that bad, 5/16.

(just rechecked everything) with tub set, top of tub rim is out of level 11/16, meaning the tub itself is out of plumb by 3/8.

fiberglass tub has 6 formed feet, now gotta brainstorm this. going to have to set on a work table, to see what i can adjust, how, and where.

adjust the floor,,,,,,,,,,, downwards………… or trim the feet.

dammit

phffter wrote:

On ‎10‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 6:50 AM, phffter said:

shoot a screw near each nail. pop/pry out the nails. saves tearing down the rock.

thought about that but the panel itself looks oike it is peeling plus the edge tape is showing. just going to redo it.

on the tub can you not use a bed of mortar?

rrich1 wrote:

On 10/14/2016 at 7:47 PM, rrich1 said:

thought about that but the panel itself looks oike it is peeling plus the edge tape is showing. just going to redo it.

 

on the tub can you not use a bed of mortar?

Yes use a bed of mortar that’s how I do all the tubs I set. I first lay down plastic and then mound up mortar in two rows, where the tub will set. You will have a rock solid tub that will not squeak. Hope that makes sense.

Rubber couplings (fernco) is fine to use, and even better is to use a no-hub rubber couplings, Proflex or fernco has their brand of no-hub connectors too. You’re referring to using this on the cast iron pipe correct?

KnarlyCarl wrote:

Yes use a bed of mortar that’s how I do all the tubs I set. I first lay down plastic and then mound up mortar in two rows, where the tub will set. You will have a rock solid tub that will not squeak. Hope that makes sense.

Rubber couplings (fernco) is fine to use, and even better is to use a no-hub rubber couplings, Proflex or fernco has their brand of no-hub connectors too. You’re referring to using this on the cast iron pipe correct?

busy at work, kinda putting me further behind.

cannot go ‘up’ with tub. have to go ‘down’ to level

there are 6 pvc ‘feet’ under the tub, hit them with a belt sander. tub is now within ‘the bubble’

built the soffit, mounted fart fan.

already made my mind up to use a rubber coupling wth hose clamps, to transition between pvc and steel pipe.

why do you guys use a plastic sheet under the tub mortar?

i am going to use a little to secure it, but, i do not want to raise it.

worked late again (at work)

not to crowd rrich’s thread, filled 35 5 gallon buckets of dust, plaster, and general debris. i wanted to order a 4 wheeled dumpster like you see behind small businesses, not available to general public, it seems. need the ability to push it in the back, so i could use the drive (5 vehicles) (and not alert the permit police). throwing it the trash as we go, boy2 is tossing some in the dumpster at work. local scrapper took the tub, mesh and scrap steel i had.

progress………… cleaning up the mess that fell into the basement. was going to put it off, but the dawgs are tracking the dust upstairs.

installed dur rock on the soffit. laid out the tub valve, wall stud is exactly where tub center now is. debating whether to relocate that stud, or get artistic, trim it for the valve, and add two nailer studs .  i want to minimize more dust.

that’s a lot of buckets! I lucked out putting in my shower plumbing, it is angled a little towards a stud and is where it needs to be. I still need to place my tub in to be exactly sure but from their measurements it is. 

phffter wrote:

On 10/19/2016 at 6:23 PM, phffter said:

busy at work, kinda putting me further behind.

cannot go ‘up’ with tub. have to go ‘down’ to level

there are 6 pvc ‘feet’ under the tub, hit them with a belt sander. tub is now within ‘the bubble’

built the soffit, mounted fart fan.

already made my mind up to use a rubber coupling wth hose clamps, to transition between pvc and steel pipe.

why do you guys use a plastic sheet under the tub mortar?

i am going to use a little to secure it, but, i do not want to raise it.

I put plastic before the mortar to prevent moisture from penetrating the subfloor any. 
Also the mortar doesn’t raise the tub, you push it down into the mortar to exactly where you want it level, then let it set up so it’s perfectly level. It’s a super simple process, eliminates any shims and tedious measuring and test fitting and shuffling around etc…

i understand carl, except for the plastic. wont ‘adhere’ the tub to the structure.

i didnt use plastic on the tub remod i did last year, – so, i dont think i will use it this time.

working 60+ hours a week, plus getting older, my get up and go kinda left.

anyhoo, today i was able to get at it, im sure rrich is now ahead of me in progress.

demo’ed the waste/vent. reinstall with pvc and rubber couplings. pipe/hang tub valve and shower head. added a couple of nailers near the valve. next time i work with pvc primer, to get ahead, i should just dump a can on the floor, which i did (again).

galvanized steel pipe from ’49 was in surprisingly great shape. got to use my new m18 sawzall to whack the vent lines, again, i made a mess in the basement. damn plaster. after cleaning up multiple times, still made a mess.

next step, finish water lines and leak check. then tub goes in permanently.

those didnt turn out so well.

if there is a desire, ill re shoot

Interesting using the strut to support the pipes, those and the mixing valve aren’t budging anytime soon!

phffter wrote:

18 hours ago, phffter said:

i understand carl, except for the plastic. wont ‘adhere’ the tub to the structure.

i didnt use plastic on the tub remod i did last year, – so, i dont think i will use it this time.

working 60+ hours a week, plus getting older, my get up and go kinda left.

anyhoo, today i was able to get at it, im sure rrich is now ahead of me in progress.

demo’ed the waste/vent. reinstall with pvc and rubber couplings. pipe/hang tub valve and shower head. added a couple of nailers near the valve. next time i work with pvc primer, to get ahead, i should just dump a can on the floor, which i did (again).

galvanized steel pipe from ’49 was in surprisingly great shape. got to use my new m18 sawzall to whack the vent lines, again, i made a mess in the basement. damn plaster. after cleaning up multiple times, still made a mess.

next step, finish water lines and leak check. then tub goes in permanently.

 

 

I wouldnt be so quick on that. I have been halted in actual bathroom work. Wife and I work complete opposite schedules with me working seconds plus having 2 kids under 4. Looking great so far! my goal is the tub to be in by the end of the month. 

another long day at werk. no progress, except cleaning up more damn plaster ‘marbles’ and dust from using sawzall.

the old medicine cabinet had the slot for old blades, found some, not the usual ones,tiny ones.. and ‘found’ an old chisel in the wall, last week.

put away tools, general cleanup and organization.

Yeah finding the time is usually the biggest challenge.

I just set a tub, shower valve, etc today at a place the customer is fixing up.

..

Was able to get to the back side to set the mortar in that way. It just takes a bit longer if the back isn’t open…

…

This tub is a PVC from Delta. It’s OK, but I prefer the strength of fiberglass. The mortar makes it stupid simple. 

..

I set the tub before the mortar exactly where I wanted it level and marked the studs and then gently set it down to those marks so there’s no guesswork

..

Ready for drywall

..

The tub surround is PVC as well and I hated working with it because how flimsy it is compared to fiberglass, plus good surrounds have alignment pegs and this did not and was more of a pain..

Looking forward to the outcome of your bathrooms guys!

Obviously I:

Let the mortar set up

Drilled holes through the tub flange for screws into the studs, 

Shimmed where necessary

Added extra blocks were necessary

Marked and drilled holes for the shower valve stems

Etc….

No shower head?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

HiltiWpg wrote:

5 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:

No shower head?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

It’s there, just can’t see it. It’s above the tub surround, gets put in after the drywall gets on and painted

That looks identical to my bathroom when I remodeled my bathroom.  What a pain in the a**.  Your is looking good and can’t wait to follow this project.

busy week, havent had time to do anything, till tonight. tub set, secured, and screwed to studs. small bathroom, stud to stud is 60 3/4” width. tub is 60. notched the fixture side studs 1/4” for the tub, had to attach nailer studs to back side, 1” out. 

as far as setting the tub, discussed this with the in house plumber, 2 carpenters, 3 fitters, 2 electricians, 4 engineers. all agreed on plumbers suggestion, which was NOT to use mortar or construction adhesive. the compound used was ‘window’ great stuff.

worked real good, tub now has a blanket in it, protecting it by all the tool boxes i threw in there to weigh it down. i also bought a lyons tub, as rrich did.

world series on, in between peeks at the blackhawks game.

i’ll finish the plumbing tomorrow, after work.