I have a friend that is a carver and he has the Lancelot and he was saying the it is hard to get a even depth on a dado. I have seen these thins in action and they can rip up some wood.
I don’t think it’s available in the states but this is probably more what you want.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&persist_app=1&v=upmyNmJRNgo
Yes I’m sitting around on my lunch bored as hell, so on further searching I found the NFU 32 by Mafell also the description says it’s for dado and grove cutting.
http://www.mafelltoolstore.com/grma.html
Edit: If the site is current this is available in the US.
Man you have made me one happy camper. This will be mine if I can not get this here I have two friends that live over seas. One in England the other in Germany. Thank you, I hope I can repay you some day. I have no real reason to get this besides I just want it.
I have found a US dealer mcfalltoolstore.com out of stock $825.00 but it can be ordered. Now I just have to come up with the cash.
Not a problem. Just happy to help. 😀
Just the thought of using lancelot cutters or, for that matter, any one handed tool to make dado cuts makes me want to ask the question, are you suicidal?
4 things:
1 a tool bag/box with a power bar attached to the outside and an extension chord (and it’s own pouch). You could also have onboard battery chargers
2 a rolling ”materials” container box. Almost like a cluster of tupperware for for bulk storage of glue, screws, powders, caulking tubes, etc…. They make lotes of tool box variations, but not a version for bulk hardware/ bonding compounds. It would be like a rolling bulk store
3 a “creeper” gear for a cordless drill and a vice-like driver used for pulling out stripped screws.
4 a heavy duty, table top jig saw. Almost like a router table but with a jig motion. Something you could put 1/8 wide jig blades, metal files, or even sanding drums in. I’d like to be able to control the speed, travel distance, and circular motion
Highdesert Splintermaker wrote:
Just the thought of using lancelot cutters or, for that matter, any one handed tool to make dado cuts makes me want to ask the question, are you suicidal?
As an ex-logger, maybe a little crazy, but not suicidal. 😀
If the mf 26 or Mafells other groove cutter work half as good for dados as the videos I’ve seen I would use them. They don’t use a traditional dado stack, so they may be safer. Imagine the time they would save you.
I contacted Timberwolf Tools about the Mafell MF 26 cc. Here is what they sent.
Okay…here’s another one that isn’t exactly for the workshop, but for the kitchen.
I want a wall mounted, stainless steel kitchen dremel. Something with the flex shaft that you can use for dishes, blending or stirring.
I like the idea of it having a low gear so you can hook it on the side of a pot while it slowly stirs your soup, sauce or popcorn.
I’ve got a real questionable one. I was watching (so I can’t take credit here) “the Office” and Dwight asked Jim for a “Gay Detector” on the Gay Witch Hunt episode. I laughed my A$s off for the whole episode. Anyways, Jim gets a portable metal detector like the ones used at Court and just wrote Gay and Straight on it. I figure Hey what the heck? Would save most of us the horribly embarrassing moment when we say the wrong thing at the wrong time.
lol Here’s something along that line Chris.
LMAO holy crap that’s funny!
I think I confuse some guys gaydar. I have been propositioned more than once at a bar and once at a furniture store I reality really shouldn’t have been too surprised about the furniture store one. I think I’m just too friendly.
We’ll DR, gay does mean friendly 😉
Forgot about that!
Hahahahahahahaha sorry!
Maybe it’s because you are so Fabulous 😀
Hahaha that was great regopit!
regopit wrote:
Maybe it’s because you are so Fabulous 😀
Just remember Festool is European. They like to wear Capri’s for work pants. 🙂
Whoa whoa whoa…. First off, and although I am not condoning rampant racism or world wide domination and genocide… nobody… nobody…messes with those crazy Arians!!!! 😀 AND….Bosch is the author of that ABORTION called “Work Capris”!!!!! seriously?!?!?!?! Who in their right mind would wear work capris?!?!?!?!?! Maybe those freaks that wear their pants around their butt cheeks and their ball cap visors pressed flat but hey…those idiots have enough problems already!
I may not wear Work Capris do I do like to wear
[External image (www.jacobzflores.com), not copied]
so Fabulous
I’m too sexy for my shirt to sexy for my shirt soooo sexy it hurts…. 🙂
Dude I’d erase your internet history!!!! Your wife will think your hanging out in rest areas!!!!! Hahahahahahahahaha
Man you’d get sawdust everywhere.
You guys are jumping to conclusions. That dude probably isn’t gay, maybe he’s just………ok, yea, he’s gay.
Well I’m pretty sure he’s no cowboy, he’s wearing sneakers with those chaps not boots. Or pants. Or a shirt. And he’s wearing panties. Definitely not a cowboy.
Maybe he’s one of those “grew up on a farm but moved to city” types? Or maybe he’s just a fudge packer 😆
Oh, and if we have any homosexual readers let me apologize if I have offended you. I have nothing against you. I do not hate gays…..I just don’t like them
RedSionnach wrote:
Man you’d get sawdust everywhere.
Man….that would be some serious jock itch. Or……Carpenter itch? No definitely jock itch.
You guys have never heard of broke back tool shed?
No, I try to stay away from any broke back anything. I’ll never wear a cowboy hat again 🙁
Wow, this thread has really gone really off topic and very broke back. It’s hilarious though!!!
Yeah. It’s bring back memories of Boy Scout trips……. 😮
You aren’t the scout leader are you Chris?
ChrisK1970 wrote:
Yeah. It’s bring back memories of Boy Scout trips……. 😮
TMI Chris. So how are those Festools working out for you?
Honestly I couldn’t be happier with them. Best machines I have ever used or seen for that money. I am really considering the Domino DF500 for my next purchase. I want to get the Kapex but I am going to wait a while on that one. I want a sliding miter and am really,looking over the Bosch offerings as well as Jet and Dewalt. I am replacing my M18Fuel impact with the TI15, I’ve switched my battery platform but am keeping my M12 tools and my M18 circular for portability. I’m really stoked that you get to go to the show! I also think it’s awesome your going to buy local though. I am making all of my purchases at my local store. Festool really goes all out on training the salespeople and I can get a pretty good answer at my Woodcraft store not to mention friends in the business. I’m finding that my projects are having to wait for weather and with nearly four feet of snow in my yard spring can’t get here soon enough. I’ve got fences, pergolas and am really looking at building a covered porch with my soon to be father in law on the front of my house so my tools are going to get a pretty good work out come May and June not to mention some furniture and built in plans I’ve got going on in my “knife juggling monkey” brain. All in all wicked happy camper over here!
Why are the tool rests that come with bench grinders such a useless pain in the ass? It’s as though the design engineers want to taunt their consumers with something of genuine value they can’t use. I’m not laughing. With most grinders it’s a given – the included abrasive wheels need to be replaced with quality wheels. It also seems like no matter whose nameplate is on the grinder or how much it costs – two facts prevail, it is made in China and the tool rests are junk.
Aftermarket tool rests are available. Some of them aren’t much better designed or built than the ones that come with the grinders. Then there are a couple that really reflect some user awareness thinking behind the design and some quality materials and execution in their production. The brand name Veritas comes to mind, but, currently priced at $58 each, a pair of them can cost more than the grinder and their functions are limited until you spend even more for their accessories. Their main accessory, a sliding tool clamp, much like the tool rests themselves, are both beautifully made and again, at $29 each, overpriced, but unlike the tool rests they are a letdown because as I’ll explain below, they lack that all important user aware thinking behind their design. The end result, in my opinion, renders the entire tool rest and accessory combination, at $172 for a pair, worthy of far less attention than this paragraph has just given them.
There is some salvation in sight for those of us who prefer to use an abrasive wheel on one end only and replace the other rotating stone with either a wire wheel or a polishing wheel. Neither of those necessarily require a tool rest so you’ve just cut your tool rest problem in half.
Where tool rests are required, however, in my opinion;
A tool rests should NOT;
1.) have a notch at their business edge (the edge closest to the grinding wheel). The only thing those notches are good for is supporting something you’re attempting to grind on a side face of the grinding wheel. Grinding wheels are not made to withstand lateral pressure and when forced to do so (even with only a slight amount of pressure) can, without warning, virtually explode and ruin your whole day.
2.) have a diagonal v-grove in them (supposedly provided for the purpose of sharpening drill bits). Sharpening drill bits is not a task the intelligent tool user would take to a bench grinder, although considering the price and limitations of a Drill Doctor I can’t say I blame them much. Ever try sharpening a bit in one of those shallow troughs? Even if you can keep the bit in the bottom of the trough you can’t keep the tip of the bit centered in the bit diameter. Besides, there are several types of bit tips, sizes of bits, and hex drive bits that simply don’t lend themselves to sharpening on a grinder. Best solution; buy a new bit. That diagonal v-groove makes the tool rest all but impossible to use for anything else in a normal manner. Aha! I can just move the other tool rest over – problem solved. Nope! You can’t simply swap out the tool rests because they are left/right handed. You can’t even order a replacement tool rest with a plain flat surface (without the angled v-groove). Question – If they are clever enough to make their junk idiot proof, why don’t they use that cleverness to make it more usable to begin with?
3.) be attached directly or indirectly to the grinder itself. The tool rest support brackets usually bolt to the inboard sides of the shields. The shields are usually of thinner metal than the tool rest support bracket and because of the way the shields are attached to the grinder many of them vibrate thereby shaking the tool rest even when the grinder’s wheels run smoothly.
4.) have that pinking shear serrated interface with their supporting bracket. That serrated interface locks your tool rest into a very limited number of probably not so useful angles and absolutely denies you any other angle settings you might want.
5.) deter you in any way from dipping the work piece in a coolant, usually water, to prevent overheating and thereby loosing the temper in a thin edge. [This applies mostly to aftermarket tool rest accessories.] This is usually most critical when hollow grinding plane irons, wood chisels, and/or some lathe tools and is all but impossible with the work piece clamped in a tool rest accessory.
A tool rests should:
1.) allow you to set them anywhere from level on a horizontal plane slightly below the wheels’ center of rotation to almost tangent with the top of the wheel at a ‘convenient-for-you’ angle.
2.) allow you to space the business edge of the tool rest within 1/8th of an inch (3+ mm) from the outside diameter (OD) of the grinding wheel. This allows you to adequately support the work piece.
NOTE: These two things simply can’t be done with most out of the box tool rests supplied with today’s grinders.
3.) allow you to completely remove it, and later reinstall it, without destroying a setup. Try that with your out of the box DeWalt, Porter Cable, or Delta tool rest.
4.) allow you to move the item being ground, side to side, across the (OD) of the grinding wheel in a straight line while it remains under your control. You can’t control much of anything if the tool rest is shaking from vibrations. Neither can you have control of the work piece feed into the OD of the spinning wheel if your work piece is clamped into an accessory which slides laterally in a groove but can’t be moved forward or backward because it is clamped. [i personally like the lateral groove concept but not the idea of clamping the work piece into a carrier that follows the lateral groove.] The feeding (and retracting) of the work piece into the OD of the grinding wheel is the most sensitive part of grinding and should always be under the operator’s physical manual control. Why? Only your tactile touch sensitivity can ultimately produce the edge you want.
5.) allow for an adjustable guide which may be used to grind or maintain any particular skewed angle of the work piece as it is moved across the OD of the wheel. Such an angle, however, can be easily maintained, without clamping, simply by using an adjustable guide (much like the adjustable head of a sliding miter gauge on a saw table). It can slide laterally in a horizontal groove and, without clamping the work piece, leaving work piece feed totally in your control.
I am currently in the process of designing tool rests that will perform in accordance with the above cited parameters. I have scoured the internet and seen many homebuilt tool rests. I am looking at both wood and steel designs for ideas but will, in all likelihood, finalize my design in steel.
I am also inviting all of you to comment, make suggestions, criticisms, post photos, provide your ideas, etc.
I would definitely make one out of steel. Sparks and wood don’t mix well. My grandpa was a machinist for a while and he has shown me how to sharpen a drill bit on a bench grinder. He bought a separate one just for drill bits though. I am very interested in this and would love to see plans as I often have bits dull out often and need touch up work on the edges. I agree that all tool rests on bench grinders suck big time. Of you need to do anything precise you won’t have much luck.
Absolutely, Nick:
Perhaps I left too much doubt about my choice of materials. My final design will definitely be made of steel. I am, however, looking at tool rest designs executed in wood as well as steel. Many home built tool rests clearly show traces of grey matter having spawned their design and functionality – as opposed to the more commercial approach couched in a total concern for minimal manufacturing costs and the wholesale bottom line.