Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Milwaukee). This thread is read-only.
Hey Gang,
I am planning on buying a cordless circ saw for my kit and am debating between the 6-1/2″ fuel saw, and the standard Milwaukee brushed circular saw.
aside from the increased performance from the fuel, the rafter hook is quite appealing.. I’m not sure if that’s going to be overkill for my needs, plus here in Canada I believe the price difference is about 100 bucks, and well for that much I could go buy myself another tool 😉
for those of you who have each of these saws what are your thoughts? do you regret your purchase and wish you went the other way?
Mike
The fuel will give you longer runtime as well and you can get a full sized 7 1/4″ which the blades are more common and priced a little better
Jimbo
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the blade is on the wrong side for me. It must be on the left hand side, which is too bad because the 7-1/4″ would be a great tool to have
I would say go fuel if you can, the longevity of the tool is greater than the brushed versions. Most of the Milwaukee brushed versions are just average ordinary where the fuels tend to stand out as a really great tool.
Jimbo
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I agree with Jimbo, the brushed models are ok, but the fuel models will make a difference.
I have been debating this also. The big factor is how often you will use it. The prices I found seem to be around 99 for brushed and 199 for fuel. I don’t use a circular saw all that often so I can’t justify paying twice the money
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that is a fair price difference. the fuel is not needed for occasional use, especially just occasional cuts in framing timber. if you want it for much more, go the FUEL, you won’t regret it.
I am a carpenter apprentice. while this wont be used all day everyday, it wont be spending all of its time sitting on a shelf waiting to be used by a weekend warrior a couple times in the summer either.
Then go with the fuel. If this is going to make you money get the better saw. I use my tools in my garage mostly so I would just grab my corded saw for extended use.
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I went with the 6 1/2 fuel and happy I did, I may not be a contractor but I am restoring my home room by room from the studs out and after about the 3rd room it has paid for itself already as far as I’m concerned….
Brushless is great, but the benefits of a brushless motor don’t apply to all tools equally.
A saw needs a good blade more than a brushless motor. The battery life will be better, but only marginally.
Heavy load tools will see much more of a benefit from a brushless motor.
A circular saw will be great with or without a brushless motor. Brushed motors are less susceptible to dirt and debris as well.
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HiltiWpg wrote:
1 minute ago, HiltiWpg said:Brushless is great, but the benefits of a brushless motor don’t apply to all tools equally.
A saw needs a good blade more than a brushless motor. The battery life will be better, but only marginally.
Heavy load tools will see much more of a benefit from a brushless motor.
A circular saw will be great with or without a brushless motor. Brushed motors are less susceptible to dirt and debris as well.
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well then it came in handy while I was taper cutting wet fresh 2×4 end for end……2 stories up while leveling ceiling joists before sheet rock…..I could tell how wet the wood was one from another just by the sound of the motor while cutting……..
for a carpenter, don’t even consider the brushed model. The FUEL is just so powerful…
dwain wrote:
for a carpenter, don’t even consider the brushed model. The FUEL is just so powerful…
Higher rpm or do you mean it has more torque?
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I’m not sure about the RPM. It has significantly more power/torque than any cordless brushed saw that I know of. This link is informative if you’re interested:
http://www.aconcordcarpenter.com/18-volt-cordless-circular-saw-head-to-head.html
dwain wrote:
I’m not sure about the RPM. It has significantly more power/torque than any brushed saw that I know of.
The brushless motor delivers higher rpms, that’s one of the disadvantages of a brushed motor, high friction means lower rpm.
I am not sure that torque really applies to a circular saw. If you are pushing the tool into the wood that hard, you are doing it wrong!
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M18 3500 rpm, M18 Fuel 5000 rpm. No torque ratings, which makes sense.
There ya go, thanks google!
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HiltiWpg wrote:
59 minutes ago, HiltiWpg said:M18 3500 rpm, M18 Fuel 5000 rpm. No torque ratings, which makes sense.
There ya go, thanks google!
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torque comes into play at a certain point though, otherwise once you hit OSB the blade will just stop, i know thats extreme example…
Fuel easily. Great saw that is well worth the premium price.
Think of that extra hundred dollars as what you save from not needing a second corded saw for when the brushed goes dead.
I had Milwaukee brushed circular 2630 and I used it a month. I replaced it to Fuel. And I would say it’s so cool and powerfull.
Build quality is also much better in Fuel model.
Important to say that if you have time – look for special offers, you can buy saw much lower then RRP
HiltiWpg wrote:
8 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:The brushless motor delivers higher rpms, that’s one of the disadvantages of a brushed motor, high friction means lower rpm.
I am not sure that torque really applies to a circular saw. If you are pushing the tool into the wood that hard, you are doing it wrong!
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Whilst it’s true that the term ‘torque’ is not readily used for circular saws, it absolutely applies. torque is simply how much force is applied at a given distance/radius. you can find electric saws with far more power but little extra RPM, because the no-load RPM is meaningless without the grunt to back it up.
the FUEL grinder is another good example. It has only 9000RPM, compared to many brushed 18v grinders with 10,000RPM. But the FUEL smashes them because when you apply load, the RPM doesn’t drop nearly as much.
HiltiWpg wrote:
8 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:I am not sure that torque really applies to a circular saw. If you are pushing the tool into the wood that hard, you are doing it wrong!
If you want to cut fast, you need the power to do it. Ask a carpenter to cut OSB or LVLs all day on a cheap cordless saw and see what he/she thinks…
HiltiWpg wrote:
12 hours ago, HiltiWpg said:The brushless motor delivers higher rpms, that’s one of the disadvantages of a brushed motor, high friction means lower rpm.
I am not sure that torque really applies to a circular saw. If you are pushing the tool into the wood that hard, you are doing it wrong!
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hmm back in the day (I’m talking the 60’s) my father used to say worm drive circular saws were best on the job site because they had more torque. If more torque was important then why would having a cordless saw be any different I realize these cordless brushless saw’s are not worm drive but the more torque you have the better it is going to cut no?
comp56 wrote:
hmm back in the day (I’m talking the 60’s) my father used to say worm drive circular saws were best on the job site because they had more torque. If more torque was important then why would having a cordless saw be any different I realize these cordless brushless saw’s are not worm drive but the more torque you have the better it is going to cut no?
Oh for sure.
Torque in any motor is important.
For circular saws, you aren’t running them under constant and varying loads like an impact or drill.
They spin. Sometimes they bog a little and a beefier motor is great to have. With a good blade and proper use of the tool, the torque requirements aren’t that crazy.
As for the worm drive, they don’t bind up like a direct drive because they are geared. Direct drive can stop the blade much easier when it binds. Worm drives by design, are very hard to stop. Not because of brushless or brushed motors, but the gearing. The are beasts!
Just wait for an M18 Fuel Wormdrive!
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well I’ll be torqued….lol, either way the fuel circular saw I have works just as good as any corded circular saw I ever used. Then again I never had to own anything high end for a circular saw…..I’m not ripping 3/4″ plywood stacked 4 deep all day. it cuts and it cuts well I’m happy….
I went with the 7 1/4″ Fuel and I have to say it was worth the extra $$$ up front. It cuts through anything that I can throw at it without bogging down. The extra run time from the brushless motor really helped out a lot when I took it to my father’s house last year and forgot my battery charger. I had enough juice with two battery packs to run the circular saw, an impact driver and hammer drill (all fuel) to build and install a new set of steps outside of his kitchen, including cutting all of the PT, drilling Tapcons into the slab and putting everything together.
khariV wrote:
I went with the 7 1/4″ Fuel and I have to say it was worth the extra $$$ up front. It cuts through anything that I can throw at it without bogging down. The extra run time from the brushless motor really helped out a lot when I took it to my father’s house last year and forgot my battery charger. I had enough juice with two battery packs to run the circular saw, an impact driver and hammer drill (all fuel) to build and install a new set of steps outside of his kitchen, including cutting all of the PT, drilling Tapcons into the slab and putting everything together.
Just wait until the 12.0ah batteries come out!
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To me, the FUEL is the only one that really feels like the same power as a corded model. And if you’re going to go for the FUEL, go 7 1/4 over 6 because price is either the same or sometimes on sale will be cheaper and is much more common to find blades for. I have the FUEL 7 1/4 and am not a contractor, just use for basic home use and it’s fantastic. The light doesn’t seemed to be placed in the right spot, but it helps some. I’m guessing that’s probably the same on all their models. I don’t think I’ve ever regreted spending a bit extra for a better tool, but have often regreted getting a cheap tool.
Fuel worm saw would be pretty sweet
Jimbo
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Daniel Julian wrote:
30 minutes ago, Daniel Julian said:To me, the FUEL is the only one that really feels like the same power as a corded model. And if you’re going to go for the FUEL, go 7 1/4 over 6 because price is either the same or sometimes on sale will be cheaper and is much more common to find blades for. I have the FUEL 7 1/4 and am not a contractor, just use for basic home use and it’s fantastic. The light doesn’t seemed to be placed in the right spot, but it helps some. I’m guessing that’s probably the same on all their models. I don’t think I’ve ever regreted spending a bit extra for a better tool, but have often regreted getting a cheap tool.
You can get killer deals on 7 1/4 inch blades not so much on the 6 1/2.
Well the fuel 6 1/2 is a beast and realistically you will be cutting 2by material most of the time which it does with ease so the extra money for the 7 1/4 and the fact the the blade is on the right side is a pain if your right handed and use to using a worm drive.The fact the you can get blades cheaper for 7 1/4 is a small factor but the compact size of the 6 1/2 makes it even out.Also if you are already building a milwaukee too line then i would say go with the 2730-22 cause then you get the charger and the two 4.0s and you can buy it for around 369.99 definately worth every penny.
M18 fuel 6 1/2 with a diablo blade and 4.0 will always be pleased especially if you in a roof or remote location.
just my 0.02
cwebby wrote:
1 minute ago, cwebby said:Well the fuel 6 1/2 is a beast and realistically you will be cutting 2by material most of the time which it does with ease so the extra money for the 7 1/4 and the fact the the blade is on the right side is a pain if your right handed and use to using a worm drive.The fact the you can get blades cheaper for 7 1/4 is a small factor but the compact size of the 6 1/2 makes it even out.Also if you are already building a milwaukee too line then i would say go with the 2730-22 cause then you get the charger and the two 4.0s and you can buy it for around 369.99 definately worth every penny.
M18 fuel 6 1/2 with a diablo blade and 4.0 will always be pleased especially if you in a roof or remote location.
just my 0.02
I agree, the lighter smaller saw that probably does 90% of what the larger saw does is a good trade off. I like the blade on the left and I love the lighter weight……
i also prefer the smaller, lighter (and left-hand blade) 6-1/2″ FUEL. The blade prices don’t matter to me much because I don’t have to buy them very often…
DR99 wrote:
6 hours ago, DR99 said:You can get killer deals on 7 1/4 inch blades not so much on the 6 1/2.
true but the blades on the wrong side for me, so the 6-1/2″ will be the one
blade price isn’t a factor for me either. if the blade was on the left side on the 7-1/4 id maybe consider it but I will not buy that saw for the reason that the blades the wrong way. I’m leaning toward the fuel.. I already have a 4 piece kit, 3 3.0ah batteries, and a 1.5ah for my flash light. I have a couple other compacts but those stay with another cheaper m18 drill driver kit for home projects.
Why is the blade on the wrong side on the 7 1/4″?
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I like the blade on the left side. The 7-1/4″ is on the right/incorrect side 😉
HiltiWpg wrote:
Why is the blade on the wrong side on the 7 1/4″?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Asking the real question here…..
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I have both and the fuel does cut better and it has more power but is I’m doing a lot framing I bust out the worm drive.
I had the brushed and upgraded to the fuel and it does make a big difference. I say spend the extra hundred for the fuel so youre not kicking your self later on.
having a brushless motor may not effect a circular saw with power or torque on paper, but when cutting wood it sure does……
(you see what I did there…..)
Ok for someone who only ever cuts 2x or deck boards plus plywood how would you rate the M12 fuel 5 3/8″ vs the M18 fuel 6 1/2″? The M12 claims to cut 2x lumber and I have both lines with multiple batteries for both. Sorry to hijack the topic…
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Dano123 wrote:
3 hours ago, Dano123 said:Ok for someone who only ever cuts 2x or deck boards plus plywood how would you rate the M12 fuel 5 3/8″ vs the M18 fuel 6 1/2″? The M12 claims to cut 2x lumber and I have both lines with multiple batteries for both. Sorry to hijack the topic…
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If your doing a deck I think you would be better with the 18v.
I use deck boards for the patio chairs and tables I build and my bar and counter top in my outdoor kitchen. I can use corded if I needed too plus I use my miter for 99% of my crosscuts and my table saw for any rip cuts. Milwaukee advertises that saw make 170 or so cuts per charge, I was curious if that is legit. I would only need a few cuts here and there and it would be way cheaper for me to get the m12 vs m18
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Dano123 wrote:
I use deck boards for the patio chairs and tables I build and my bar and counter top in my outdoor kitchen. I can use corded if I needed too plus I use my miter for 99% of my crosscuts and my table saw for any rip cuts. Milwaukee advertises that saw make 170 or so cuts per charge, I was curious if that is legit. I would only need a few cuts here and there and it would be way cheaper for me to get the m12 vs m18Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Baretool m12 Fuel is 149… Baretool m18 Fuel 7 1/4″ is 199… 50 bucks more you got a full sized saw
Or screw it but both!! Lol
Jimbo
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I don’t really need the 7 1/4″ if I need the depth of a full size I will use corded. Plus I like that the blade is on the left on the smaller saws. I saw IHL has the m12 for 159 cad, not sure on shipping to Ohio though?
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Dano123 wrote:
I don’t really need the 7 1/4″ if I need the depth of a full size I will use corded. Plus I like that the blade is on the left on the smaller saws. I saw IHL has the m12 for 159 cad, not sure on shipping to Ohio though?Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
That being said, if the m12 is a joke I don’t want to waste my money. I have used my m12 hackzall to cut a few boards that I didn’t feel like getting my corded saw out. Normally I try to stick to the rule if a job would have worked smoother with a certain tool or if it requires a certain tool I buy one. Then I decide the quality needed. A few uses, check harbor freight, moderate/frequent use I look for better quality.
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Dano123,
i tried the 7 1/4″ fuel and I own the 6 1/2″ fuel I like the blade on the left I like the lighter weight between the two and didn’t notice enough cutting power difference ….I think the M18 6 1/4″ fuel is the happy medium between the 3 of them. blade price is cheaper for the larger saw but how many blades are you really going to be buying. I waited until Home Depot had a more you buy the more you save deal and bought some blades, I think it turned out rather well to stock up on blades for everything table saw/miter saw and circular saw……..walked out with a wack of diablo that day…lol
Dano123 wrote:
6 hours ago, Dano123 said:That being said, if the m12 is a joke I don’t want to waste my money. I have used my m12 hackzall to cut a few boards that I didn’t feel like getting my corded saw out. Normally I try to stick to the rule if a job would have worked smoother with a certain tool or if it requires a certain tool I buy one. Then I decide the quality needed. A few uses, check harbor freight, moderate/frequent use I look for better quality.
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If building a deck is your type of project, and you’re the kind to drag out corded for more power, M12 will probably feel like a toy. My impression is the M12 is meant for people who do lighter work so they don’t need a cord or 18V just to get a circular saw.
Kinda smart of Milwaukee to have the 7-1/4 and 6-1/2 have blades on the opposite sides. They’re pretty close to each other in capacity so it gives you the choice of what you like. For me I just got used to the 7-1/4 and don’t even think about it though…