Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Pub Talk). This thread is read-only.
This one could end really quickly.
What is it called, what is it used for and how.
First mystery tool:
Mystery Tool #2
Looks like pretty specific engine tools, of which I am not well versed
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#2 looks like it could be one of those thumb wheel click drive ratchets from the first photo enough those it looks a female 3/8″ square drive
Jimbo
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I honestly have no clue right now.
Knarly was the closest
I have no idea
Does the first one involve the valve train in any way?
Gear puller?
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I’m going to guess that specialty socket is for your honda? Probably a crankshaft socket?
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NicholasShetley wrote:
1 hour ago, NicholasShetley said:Does the first one involve the valve train in any way?
Sorta but not directly
tomdog22 wrote:
46 minutes ago, tomdog22 said:Gear puller?
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It does look like one, but no.
KnarlyCarl wrote:
10 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:I’m going to guess that specialty socket is for your honda? Probably a crankshaft socket?
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Not for my honda. It is a crank socket for some FE motors and one Buick. It’s for my ford. The Keyways fit onto the harmonic balancer key on the crank snout. The outer knurled wheel fits a degree wheel onto it for degreeing your cam. You slip a 1/2″ breaker bar into the socket end and it lets you rotate your motor easily.
Like so [External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied]
Hint: the other tool is also used in the same procedure.
Is the first tool to make sure the engine is at TDC?
NicholasShetley wrote:
4 hours ago, NicholasShetley said:Is the first tool to make sure the engine is at TDC?
Got yourself a winner. Its a strap style TDC locator that came with my degree wheel, almost always these will be homemade. You place the strap across the bore and put bolt it into the holes for the head bolts. You then adjust the stub coming down so you can use the positive stop method of finding TDC. You thread the stub down enough that it stops the piston before it comes to the top and then mark your degree wheel, rotate your motor back around the other direction untill it stops, and mark your degree wheel. Your top dead center is located at the mark directly between the two. You can’t just use piston location because there is several degrees worth of piston dwell at the top. Unfortunately this one wasn’t big enough to bridge the full bore so I used slightly different methods.
That’s only about 3 times the size of my honda motor.
We used a dial indicator on the engine we built.
NicholasShetley wrote:
We used a dial indicator on the engine we built.
Yeah it’s a lot faster than making a strap and just as accurate. A strap would be convenient though.