Bremon wrote:
13 minutes ago, Bremon said:It could have just been the test. I haven’t seen any face offs including the Makita at this point. It will be interesting to see the FlexVolt recip in tool fights as well.
Personally I have little faith in the reciprocating saw from Dewalt. If a tool has ever deserved to have some sort of shock isolation built into the body it’s on this…but it’s not. Hell even Ryobi has it. Instead it’s likely going to beat the hell out of you just like all of Dewalts other reciprocating saws will.
I hate cords but won’t hesitate to drag out a Milwaukee or Tiger Saw reciprocating instead of my 20v Dewalt just to save myself the violent result it presents.
Hugh Jass wrote:
15 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:
Personally I have little faith in the reciprocating saw from Dewalt. If a tool has ever deserved to have some sort of shock isolation built into the body it’s on this…but it’s not. Hell even Ryobi has it. Instead it’s likely going to beat the hell out of you just like all of Dewalts other reciprocating saws will.
I hate cords but won’t hesitate to drag out a Milwaukee or Tiger Saw reciprocating instead of my 20v Dewalt just to save myself the violent result it presents.
I would like to think that their new brushless saw has some anti vibration technology in it, thats what i love about my fuel sawzall it is just so smooth while making cuts, even my older corded sawzall doesn’t beat you up too bad
Been using the djr187 for the past week now. Although it is an improvement over the older model I am not blown away by it. It still seems miles off corded performance. And I don’t know if it’s just me but I feel like my makita batteries drain a hell of a lot quicker than my dewalts but they are in higher demanding tools which kind of makes sense
So I managed to pick up the brushless 18v. I wasn’t even at the store for that and happen to see it just there. Apparently they just got it.
I ended up getting some 5ah batteries too. I’ve only had 3ah batteries. I tried the brushless recip saw and also my x2 circular saw with the new batteries. They definitely both got a boost from using 5ah vs 3ah. As for performance… I’m happy with it. I picked up also the small recip saw (djr183z) that is like really small. I need to cut through some old galvanized plumbing pipes in cramped spaces. The brushless recip breezes through it. The small one however really couldn’t cut it. Which I am disappointed in because I got it to get in tight spaces. Still I’ll try it again as I’ve got more left to do. 2×4 are very quick with the brushless and not worth trying with the drj183. I found it does work well for cutting old cement drywall though on demo sections. ( of course this kills the blade). Also have to cut a cast iron stack so I think that will be a very good test for it.
I’ve used the milwaukee non fuel sawzall and without being able to compare them side to side, I feel like the new makita brushless is more powerful (duh..) I’m very happy with the ergonomics. The light at the end is great. the shoe adjustment works well and it’s really comfortable in the hands, I don’t find it heavy to work with.
While i’m here I’ll just say I also bought a few months ago the brushless vacuum dcl500z. I hate it. don’t get it. It’s overpriced and sucks in a bad way. I’d return it but I threw out the box and it was ordered by mail.
Also picked up the x2 rotary hammer few months ago too. I like it. Work well, not the lightest tool. I should probably try with the 5ah…
It’s great having bigger amp hour packs on tools, gives those high demand tools a good boost
Jimbo
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JimboS1ice wrote:
It’s great having bigger amp hour packs on tools, gives those high demand tools a good boostJimbo
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I couldn’t believe the difference when I threw a 6.2ah battery on my impact driver. It runs great with the 2.0ah it came with, but man it had more zip with the bigger ah battery.
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kruton wrote:
I couldn’t believe the difference when I threw a 6.2ah battery on my impact driver. It runs great with the 2.0ah it came with, but man it had more zip with the bigger ah battery.Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
I notice it the most on my m18 light, with a 3.0 the high mode is about the same brightness as low with a 5.0, noticeably brighter
Jimbo
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An LED even Jimbo, or the old style work light?
Bremon wrote:
An LED even Jimbo, or the old style work light?
The octagon light
Jimbo
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Interesting, good to know.
36v model has a performance gain over the 18v. Harder material, it can cut quicker. I was at a makita expo in Sydney yesterday and tested this myself. Makita rep using the 36v model, me using the 18v, cutting austrailan hardwood. 36v was quicker. Djr187 is made in China and djr360 is made in Japan.
Competitor “M”. …hmm now who could that be ..?
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Andrew, did you verify that the blades were the same age? Also, did you attempt to ensure you both pushed down on the saw with the same weight?
Not saying you’re wrong, just interested.
Dwain, I asked the rep about the blades. They were both changed to new not long before and they had only done about 5 cut each. Yes you have a good point about down push, that going to be the only variable. The rep was about the same height and build as me, so I guess the down push was similar.
I think you should do another video and put this debate to bed.
Do a video comparing djr187, djr360, milwaukee fuel and dealt 54v recip when it comes out. Do some time testing on hardwood, 20mm thick steel flat bar and 100nb steel pipe. Also maybe some stainless steel.
It could happen, but not in the near future. I’m actually about to do a comparison of hackzall type saws.
Seriously can’t wait to see the flexvolt gear…
dwain wrote:
3 minutes ago, dwain said:It could happen, but not in the near future. I’m actually about to do a comparison of hackzall type saws.
Seriously can’t wait to see the flexvolt gear…
Do us all a favor and include the compact 20v and embarrass the hell out of Dewalt for their abortion of a tool.
I don’t think you would be so negative about the Dewalt if it was being compared to anything but the FUEL. Compare it to the brushed Milwaukee, bosch, makita, metabo, hitachi, hilti etc, and it’s going to come up pretty well.
EDIT: oh, you’re talking about the COMPACT 10V/20V. I haven’t tried that one…
Dwain, I did reply to the message on FB about the blade and that.
I can’t wait either. I waiting for the flexvolt sds max. The grinder looks good too, 1700w. The only thing I hate and probably is a deal breaker for me is the paddle switch.
dwain wrote:
1 minute ago, dwain said:I don’t think you would be so negative about the Dewalt if it was being compared to anything but the FUEL. Compare it to the brushed Milwaukee, bosch, makita, metabo, hitachi, hilti etc, and it’s going to come up pretty well.
EDIT: oh, you’re talking about the COMPACT 10V/20V. I haven’t tried that one…
Get a mouth guard if you do. If you wear contacts, take those out so they don’t get lodged behind your eyes when they begin to involuntarily roll back into what will seem like impossible complete circles. Also the skin on your arms will appear to begin to warp the fabric of space time as the saw works to liquify your insides, but don’t worry, the effects go away after a few days.
KnarlyCarl wrote:
1 hour ago, KnarlyCarl said:Competitor “M”. …hmm now who could that be ..?
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What are they measuring?? And since when does anyone race though metal? LOL #3bladecut
Hugh Jass wrote:
10 minutes ago, Hugh Jass said:
Get a mouth guard if you do. If you wear contacts, take those out so they don’t get lodged behind your eyes when they begin to involuntarily roll back into what will seem like impossible complete circles. Also the skin on your arms will appear to begin to warp the fabric of space time as the saw works to liquify your insides, but don’t worry, the effects go away after a few days.
It makes a great concrete vibrator though.
jeffmcmillan wrote:
10 minutes ago, jeffmcmillan said:It makes a great concrete vibrator though.
OMG…how did I never think of this!!! So this is the idea, take a plunger, soak the handle to soften it up and cut the handle down the center about 5″ down. Apply epoxy to the insides and insert a old short wood blade into the handle length wise inside the split, and put two hose clamps cranked super tight and wait for it to cure.
Boom. A now useful reciprocating tool attachment converted into a concrete vibrator. Brilliant.
Hugh Jass wrote:
5 minutes ago, Hugh Jass said:
OMG…how did I never think of this!!! So this is the idea, take a plunger, soak the handle to soften it up and cut the handle down the center about 5″ down. Apply epoxy to the insides and insert a old short wood blade into the handle length wise inside the split, and put two hose clamps cranked super tight and wait for it to cure.
Boom. A now useful reciprocating tool attachment converted into a concrete vibrator. Brilliant.
You’re overthinking it. Just take the blade out and run the shoe along a form for smaller pours. The vibration does all the work for you. 😛
😆 this thread just keeps on giving lol. I’ll echo Dwain’s sentiments about being excited for FlexVolt. I’ll have a good chuckle if there’s no isolation in that unit either. Looks great in a power comparison video, but you may have to factor dental work into the purchase price.
As to the Makitas…can’t imagine getting the 18×2 version. COO would be the main reason for me but not a good enough reason to drag 20 cells on the ass end of it.
Bremon wrote:
6 minutes ago, Bremon said:😆 this thread just keeps on giving lol. I’ll echo Dwain’s sentiments about being excited for FlexVolt. I’ll have a good chuckle if there’s no isolation in that unit either. Looks great in a power comparison video, but you may have to factor dental work into the purchase price.
As to the Makitas…can’t imagine getting the 18×2 version. COO would be the main reason for me but not a good enough reason to drag 20 cells on the ass end of it.
It adds 600g to the weight the extra battery. Tigger, speed switch, shoe adjust lever and black over mould feel and look better on djr360
Hmm. Well if it’s the noticeably more premium product then it might be worth it then. Still seems like an awkward unit and I’m surprised there isn’t noticeably more power to it.
Oh, and for Hugh, I just watched a video on the FlexVolt recip that states it has a low vibration crank case lol. The 20v Max version product page’s only mention of comfort is the rubber overmold lol so maybe it really has been improved.
Bremon wrote:
17 minutes ago, Bremon said:Hmm. Well if it’s the noticeably more premium product then it might be worth it then. Still seems like an awkward unit and I’m surprised there isn’t noticeably more power to it.
Oh, and for Hugh, I just watched a video on the FlexVolt recip that states it has a low vibration crank case lol. The 20v Max version product page’s only mention of comfort is the rubber overmold lol so maybe it really has been improved.
I like the feel of the 36v better. It’s around 7.5mm wider each side compared to the 18v
Credit to Kruger construction over on Instagram. Looks like makita 36v smashed them all in a battery over heat test. Longest run time before the over heat protection kicked. The photo tells the story
Makita_2233 wrote:
2 hours ago, Makita_2233 said:Credit to Kruger construction over on Instagram. Looks like makita 36v smashed them all in a battery over heat test. Longest run time before the over heat protection kicked. The photo tells the story
Meh, being three years behind the fuel sawzall took them long enough lol!!!… Plus I need real world tests
….
If the Makita didn’t smash that test it would be an embarrassment. It’s drawing power from 33% more cells, not to mention denser cells, than the FlexVolt, and twice the cells the Fuel is.
KnarlyCarl wrote:
10 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:
Meh, being three years behind the fuel sawzall took them long enough lol!!!… Plus I need real world tests
….
Meh, fuel made in China, makita 36v Japan. Makita have got a hell of lot more tools that smash milwaukee. 3/4 impact, BL hammer drill, dt170 just to name a few.
The BL hammer drill? Doubt it. You forgot to mention the coffee maker, none of my red gear makes a cup of joe quite like a makita… Is it Japanese or just Chinese? 😆
they really should have included the 18v brushless in that test.
Yes the makita BL.
I was drilling 13mm holes in to 6mm plate all day next to my mate using a milwaukee fuel and me using makita BL. Which drill ran fine all day ? Makita Which batteries keep over heating ? Milwaukee
danielicrazy wrote:
9 hours ago, danielicrazy said:they really should have included the 18v brushless in that test.
I reckon the 18v would still out do the another 2 on over heating
Bremon wrote:
11 hours ago, Bremon said:The BL hammer drill? Doubt it.
The Makita BL dhp481 does out perform the fuel gen 2 🙂
I think every decent online comparison review showed that. Not the biggest margin mind you. But still, the Makita wins for bragging rights.
kornomaniac wrote:
16 minutes ago, kornomaniac said:
The Makita BL dhp481 does out perform the fuel gen 2 🙂
I think every decent online comparison review showed that. Not the biggest margin mind you. But still, the Makita wins for bragging rights.
?
Same goes for 3/4 fuel and fuel grinder, I’ve had battery over heating problems
Why 3/4″ impact and not 1/2″?
Makita_2233 wrote:
15 hours ago, Makita_2233 said:Meh, fuel made in China, makita 36v Japan. Makita have got a hell of lot more tools that smash milwaukee. 3/4 impact, BL hammer drill, dt170 just to name a few.
Feel better? I say these things in jest, if you hadn’t noticed. Everybody makes Tools in China, even Makita. I know I could not go with DeWalt because any existing batteries I would have for the previous 20 volt line would now no longer work with their new 60 volt reciprocating saw. Makita would be a no-brainer if I had their battery platform already. But I can’t wait around for them to come out with a comprable reciprocating saw especially since it vibrates more than the other two saws. I think bremon said it before, we are better off than we have ever been before so any brand you go with Will suit you very well
Bremon wrote:
10 hours ago, Bremon said:KnarlyCarl wrote:
9 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:Feel better? I say these things in jest, if you hadn’t noticed. Everybody makes Tools in China, even Makita. I know I could not go with DeWalt because any existing batteries I would have for the previous 20 volt line would now no longer work with their new 60 volt reciprocating saw. Makita would be a no-brainer if I had their battery platform already. But I can’t wait around for them to come out with a comprable reciprocating saw especially since it vibrates more than the other two saws. I think bremon said it before, we are better off than we have ever been before so any brand you go with Will suit you very well
Makita
I agree with you.
Im aware that most tool are made in China. I was just point out the makita 36v is made in Japan. I’ve found the vibrations aren’t that bad and many factors affect the vibrations, blade type, brand, material being cut, shoe adjustment.
Bremon wrote:
10 hours ago, Bremon said:Why 3/4″ impact and not 1/2″?
I didn’t have the fuel high torque 1/2.
I was using makita BL 3/4 and fuel 3/4 on a job a few months ago. I was replacing M30 structural bolts on a steel truss to column connection. I was pushing both really hard, some bolts would need like a minute of reverse impacting, some needed to be cut off with the oxy. Over the space of 20 hours, with on and off uses thought out the day, milwaukee batteries over heated a number of times. Makita only once.
Makita_2233 wrote:
2 hours ago, Makita_2233 said:I agree with you.
Im aware that most tool are made in China. I was just point out the makita 36v is made in Japan. I’ve found the vibrations aren’t that bad and many factors affect the vibrations, blade type, brand, material being cut, shoe adjustment.
At this point I’d only be interested in the blade release mechanism (on the Makitas), that might be the only thing I could nitpick about the Fuel
Makita_2233 wrote:
3 hours ago, Makita_2233 said:
I didn’t have the fuel high torque 1/2.
I was using makita BL 3/4 and fuel 3/4 on a job a few months ago. I was replacing M30 structural bolts on a steel truss to column connection. I was pushing both really hard, some bolts would need like a minute of reverse impacting, some needed to be cut off with the oxy. Over the space of 20 hours, with on and off uses thought out the day, milwaukee batteries over heated a number of times. Makita only once.
Good to know, the 1/2″ are probably a similar story. Seems like Milwaukee batteries are more sensitive and liable to shut themselves down.
Bremon wrote:
1 hour ago, Bremon said:Good to know, the 1/2″ are probably a similar story. Seems like Milwaukee batteries are more sensitive and liable to shut themselves down.
I agree with 1/2 similar. I found the same thing will milwaukee fuel grinder, battery would over heat and Makita didn’t when doing the same task
You guys do realize your Makita batteries were probably just as hot as the Milwaukee and you were just burning the cells up shortening their lives. Also 3.0 LTX batteries were notorious for early failures even brand new packs due to bad cell monitoring.
I’ve never had M18 thermal overload even discharging a 5.0 in under ten minutes, but the Makita batteries do thermal shutdown occasionally if I’m not paying attention. That might have more to do with my abuse of angle grinders though ;).
I’ve also never had thermal shutdown on an M18 battery, and I’ve killed them in less than 15 minutes with my sawzall
DR99 wrote:
1 hour ago, DR99 said:You guys do realize your Makita batteries were probably just as hot as the Milwaukee and you were just burning the cells up shortening their lives. Also 3.0 LTX batteries were notorious for early failures even brand new packs due to bad cell monitoring.
Yes Ive thought that my self. Milwaukee are a sealed battery unit and Makita have drain holes and vents. Maybe they magane heat better ?
I’m sure the vents help with the fan and the fast charging, but that is a lot of thermal mass to cool with no air flow through the pack when its on the tool. Dewalt had an aluminum heat sink on early 2.0ah packs but didn’t continue using it.