Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Hand Tools). This thread is read-only.
So my buddy tried to get some rust off with a dremel and scratched the shit out of my plier and stuff how to I get them out[External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied]
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Lesson learned: don’t trust your buddy and his Dremel, next time if you have tool rust try using Coca-Cola and soak it over night, it takes light rust right off. Not sure what you can do other than maybe getting a buffing wheel with a little polishing compound, or extort him for some new tools.
Best of luck,
Jimbo
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jimboslice wrote:
Lesson learned: don’t trust your buddy and his Dremel, next time if you have tool rust try using Coca-Cola and soak it over night, it takes light rust right off. Not sure what you can do other than maybe getting a buffing wheel with a little polishing compound, or extort him for some new tools.
Best of luck,
Jimbo
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New is not a option they have some personal value they carried me through my apprenticeship
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Sorry to hear that, we all have those few tools in our box we can’t come to terms with replacing or getting rid of, something women just don’t understand. [emoji6]
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What did your buddy use on that dremel!! Anyways you could try some hand sanding and buffing to try and get things somewhat better.
Vinegar bath for 24hrs and run it on a stiff wire wheel. It will resurface the steel and take out much of the damage. The longer you work it the better the results.
Aside from a buffing wheel and lots of work, I see little hope. It appears that he actually used a small grinding wheel and dug into the metal. The linesman pliers could be good as new if worked (by someone competent) on a surface grinder w/magnetic table.
I would start with some rough sandpaper and work your way up to some medium scotch brite. I say medium because it will make them look like they did when they were new
NicholasShetley wrote:
I would start with some rough sandpaper and work your way up to some medium scotch brite. I say medium because it will make them look like they did when they were new
That’s what I’d do.
I wouldn’t start with rough sandpaper, I would start with 400gt emery cloth with some crisco cooking oil, then got to 600gt then once you have removed the scratches go with scotch brite…..
I would definitely try to get it out by hand a combination of sandpaper and steel wool might work. It will take some time though
The best thing to clean your pliers with is a heavy duty scotch brite pad and wd40. That’s what Klein recommends in their website. You should never use anything that will scratch the metal as is will oxidize very quickly.
You will need to use something to grind it down nice and even, then something smooth it out and buff it a little, then treat with wd40 or another water displacement oil or lube.
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A dremel is never the problem, it’s the moron holding it. A buffing wheel on my dremel is actually the best thing I’ve found for polishing tools. If the scratches are deep it may require hand sanding, but some look shallow enough to buff out.
comp56 wrote:
I wouldn’t start with rough sandpaper, I would start with 400gt emery cloth with some crisco cooking oil, then got to 600gt then once you have removed the scratches go with scotch brite…..
Based on the first pic, I’d agree but in looking at the second pic…that looks rather deep. Think he’d be there all day with 400 grit, just my opinion.
BMack37 wrote:
Based on the first pic, I’d agree but in looking at the second pic…that looks rather deep. Think he’d be there all day with 400 grit, just my opinion.
Well if I can save the dykes that be great but I can get a new lineman plier
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NicholasShetley wrote:
I would start with some rough sandpaper and work your way up to some medium scotch brite. I say medium because it will make them look like they did when they were new
I would do this
Logan p wrote:
I would do this
I will keep you updated staring with a little but of steel wool and elbow grease
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Had this guy ever worked with a dremel before or was this the maiden voyage?
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kruton wrote:
Had this guy ever worked with a dremel before or was this the maiden voyage?
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He a auto body mechanic by trade he skilled I think I paid for a favor you know what I mean
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kruton wrote:
Had this guy ever worked with a dremel before or was this the maiden voyage?
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I am trying the viniger over night
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Hope it works for you man. At least now you will have a funny story to go along with them when you pass them down to your kids some day.
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kruton wrote:
Hope it works for you man. At least now you will have a funny story to go along with them when you pass them down to your kids some day.
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Well I won’t be having kids anytime soon me and my gf broke up[emoji29][emoji29]
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kruton wrote:
Hope it works for you man. At least now you will have a funny story to go along with them when you pass them down to your kids some day.
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A note the viniger is working checked and it slowly disappearing
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suretyler97 wrote:
Well I won’t be having kids anytime soon me and my gf broke up[emoji29][emoji29]
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I went to my Nephew’s 6th birthday party, a lot of his school friends were there…be glad you won’t be having kids soon, they are monsters.
BMack37 wrote:
I went to my Nephew’s 6th birthday party, a lot of his school friends were there…be glad you won’t be having kids soon, they are monsters.
I don’t the think it be that bad to have a son my brother has a kid and he a carpenter so he shot s him stuff
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I’d even it out best I could with a wire wheel on a bench grinder then start with 400 grit sandpaper. Work my way up to 800 and maybe even 1200.
Hand sanding will make that look better than new. If that’s too much work, try a flapper wheel.
sand paper wd 40 it will come up like new trust mesuretyler97 wrote:
So my buddy tried to get some rust off with a dremel and scratched the shit out of my plier and stuff how to I get them out[External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied]
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Petros wrote:
Hand sanding will make that look better than new. If that’s too much work, try a flapper wheel.
I was actually going to suggest that, but seeing how the Dremel went…..
I use flap drums in an air die grinder for stuff like this all the time. I discovered it when taking gouges out of an old vise I was redoing and it worked fantastic.
For deep gouges ill start with 100 grit and I can actually resurface a good size area that way. I’ll follow up with 180, then hand sand it with 400 before polishing.
It does a great job
suretyler97 wrote:
So my buddy tried to get some rust off with a dremel and scratched the shit out of my plier and stuff how to I get them out[External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied]
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Any update?
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jimboslice wrote:
Any update?
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Will after work
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Here the update looks like there good enough for now [emoji2][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied][External image (images.tapatalk-cdn.com), not copied]
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That looks a lot better man.
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kruton wrote:
That looks a lot better man.
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I know and you can barely tell
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That definitely looks a lot better. A little more on that one bad side and you’ll never know they were damaged, nice work
BMack37 wrote:
That definitely looks a lot better. A little more on that one bad side and you’ll never know they were damaged, nice work
Yu but there good enough for work I found a older pair looking around the house I destroyed the cutter on hitting a 277v live lol
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suretyler97 wrote:
Yu but there good enough for work I found a older pair looking around the house I destroyed the cutter on hitting a 277v live lol
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They look great!! That 277 makes some good fireworks..lol I see you like your ground up on your outlets
Justin Hernandez wrote:
They look great!! That 277 makes some good fireworks..lol I see you like your ground up on your outlets
Yup how do you put them ground down just the way I was taught
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Uh oh, ground up/down argument starting? 😉
I’ve seen both but I was taught ground down
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jimboslice wrote:
I’ve seen both but I was taught ground down
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It doesn’t matter much as long as it consistent in a structure
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suretyler97 wrote:
Yup how do you put them ground down just the way I was taught
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Ground down for me, do you have your GFCI ground up? In some industrial settings and airports they specify ground up sometimes
Justin Hernandez wrote:
Ground down for me, do you have your GFCI ground up? In some industrial settings and airports they specify ground up sometimes
It just how I was taught I can do it both aye buy ground up been drilled into my head
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suretyler97 wrote:
It just how I was taught I can do it both aye buy ground up been drilled into my head
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In your head ground is down. Your mouth is ground.
Was told that ground up protects from piece of metal falling on exposed plug and causing a short.
redmed wrote:
Was told that ground up protects from piece of metal falling on exposed plug and causing a short.
That makes sense to me
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redmed wrote:
Was told that ground up protects from piece of metal falling on exposed plug and causing a short.
I heard of a lot different reasons, ground up so when you trip on an extension cord the ground comes out first. I like that one the most because it shows how dumb humans are and they act like the extension cord has a brain and knows ground out first.lol
The ground is supposed to come out last regardless of orientation (and go in first). That’s why it’s the longest pin on the plug.
Petros wrote:
The ground is supposed to come out last regardless of orientation (and go in first). That’s why it’s the longest pin on the plug.
I know that’s why its so silly. Ground should always be first on last off
Ground always up for me.
If you check the nema configuration it always shows the ground up. Also if something metal falls against the wall, better chance it will not short out.
