Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Dewalt). This thread is read-only.
Happened to stop buy my local “Woodcraft” store today here in Hawaii for some supplies…Lo and behold the New 20V Max tools and hand tools were on display, also present was a Dewalt rep, which was kinda weird as I knew more about the new tools then him, thanks to D.O.G!!. Gotta tell Ya,First Impressions,They look GOOD! VERY well made, but they feel / balance even better! They feel a little lighter too, especially the new Hammer when compared with my DCD 970 Pod Lithium. also think tool for tool weight spec’s is dead on with Makita now. The Impact’s are super compact, even shorter than my 12V Max Impact. But the tool that really blew me away was the 20V Max SDS Rotary Hammer, that thing is just killer center balanced,drills like buttah! with one hand, perfect for overhead task. Hand Hammer was pretty cool, really light and well made, 25′ tape rule is exactly like the Bostich just with Dewalt badging.
All in all Dewalt really did there homework with these 20V Max line and hand tools and if you know tools, you can really tell they did. I came away very impressed. NOW Just gotta wait till late Sept. to get some of these Baby’s!!!
Edge wrote:
The Impact’s are super compact, even shorter than my 12V Max Impact. But the tool that really blew me away was the 20V Max SDS Rotary Hammer, that thing is just killer center balanced,drills like buttah! with one hand, perfect for overhead task.
The impact driver is KILLER!!! It drives your typical screws so fast, you won’t believe it! I got my demo kit a couple of weeks back, and while helping some friends hang french doors, I put in my first 3.5in screw with the impact, turned around, and lit up like a little school boy on Christmas break! The sds hammer is pretty awesome as well!
These should be pretty fun when they come out!
Damm right, but the hammer drill is a monster with the 3.0Ah battery. Now let’s see what all the haters has to say when it comes out.
I see Amazon has a few these up for pre-order. They have a few reviews as well. Mostly positive although someone actually complained that the drill was “too much drill for me”. This sounds like a good problem to have, much better than not enough to get the job done. I love my 18v stuff, but man do I want these!
I wish they’d hurry the heck up and get it on the market here!
CTDiesel wrote:
I wish they’d hurry the heck up and get it on the market here!
They are slated to ship to stores no later than Sep. 6th. Things can always happen to slow that down, but it is looking like they will ship on time or even a little early.
Madtec wrote:
Darn right, but the hammer drill is a monster with the 3.0Ah battery. Now let’s see what all the haters has to say when it comes out.
My first thought would be about time. It looks like Dewalt is just now catching up to the competition.
toolnut wrote:
Darn right, but the hammer drill is a monster with the 3.0Ah battery. Now let’s see what all the haters has to say when it comes out.
My first thought would be about time. It looks like Dewalt is just now catching up to the competition.
No, DeWALT was already the market leader (by a huge amount, FYI) with the current 18v line. The 20v line is just going to take their little bit of the cordless “pie”
Thats cool Dewalt actually has cordless models labeled as “20v”. But as far as I am concerned, their 18v line beats the other guys’ 20v. If you take a high quality 18v drill versus a lower quality 20v one, the higher quality drill wins every time. For example, my friend & I were building a shed. His popular Craftsman C3 19.2v drill didnt last as long as my Dewalt 18v DCD760 compact drill (using non-compact yellow top Li-Ion batteries). The same guy has a Craftsman Professional 20v drill for ‘heavy duty’ work, which didnt last as long as my DCD970 either. Craftsman hand tools are good, but their power tools are…. well of course I didnt expect much from a drill made by Ryobi anyways.
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to diferentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other compititors on the market.
kjones wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to diferentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other compititors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
toolnut wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
kjones wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
You can thank Milwaukee for the whole “max” thing…. pretty sure we beat that one to death on here.
If I had to guess…. and it’s only a guess, A123 has a lower Ah rating. I think in general, people would rather have a larger gas tank, than a battery with 2000 cycles. A large majority of professionals out there beat the living crap out of there batteries, and probably never reach the 1000/2000 cycle’s anyway’s.
That being said, the economy seems to be getting worse, and not better. A123 is costly, and I would see this as a solution to remain profitable, and at the same time offer a larger gas tank. I did notice the battery warranty was increased another year on both batteries. 2years on the compact, and 3years on the full size.
I personally am not thrilled about the change, only time will tell.
toolnut wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
DeWALT explains the difference between nominal and running charge on all promotional material, on the box of the tool, in the owners manual, on the website…
kjones wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
DeWALT explains the difference between nominal and running charge on all promotional material, on the box of the tool, in the owners manual, on the website…
Dewalt has always used different specs to describe their tools than most of the other manufacturers. UWO instead of Torque and typically no Ah rating on batteries. This makes it very hard for a buyer to compare specs.
toolnut wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
Well, i’ve just switched to nano over the last tear, 18v for the cordless drills. DC950L2 DC920L2 and DC988 nano version. Got a circular saw and jigsaw in 36v. Kept my nailer, grinder as they are working with teh new nano batteries. And i think dewalt did right making the batteries interchangeable. But if the new ones are going to replace the old type and not be interchangeable. I’m just not intrested anymore. Someone stated lighter, on par with makita. But i don’t want a makita competitor. Old dewalt were bouncing well, when falling of a roof, and makita don’t. I think i’ll run through my battery packs, 7 nano, 7 old XRP. And see what is available at the moment when it’s time to replace. A lot of my friends quit using hilti because of the frequent battery change and non interchangeability. Lots of us running dewalt now. But i realy don’t like the new politics of dewalt. At first, they were selling us rebranded elus. Which was fine by me. And soon, they gonna sell us rebranded black and decker crap!
satamax wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
Well, i’ve just switched to nano over the last tear, 18v for the cordless drills. DC950L2 DC920L2 and DC988 nano version. Got a circular saw and jigsaw in 36v. Kept my nailer, grinder as they are working with teh new nano batteries. And i think dewalt did right making the batteries interchangeable. But if the new ones are going to replace the old type and not be interchangeable. I’m just not intrested anymore. Someone stated lighter, on par with makita. But i don’t want a makita competitor. Old dewalt were bouncing well, when falling of a roof, and makita don’t. I think i’ll run through my battery packs, 7 nano, 7 old XRP. And see what is available at the moment when it’s time to replace. A lot of my friends quit using hilti because of the frequent battery change and non interchangeability. Lots of us running dewalt now. But i realy don’t like the new politics of dewalt. At first, they were selling us rebranded elus. Which was fine by me. And soon, they gonna sell us rebranded black and decker crap!
Yeah but at least it will be Yellow and Black instead of black and red… ;D
satamax wrote:
The 20v is a 20volt MAX, which means that it has a nominal charge of 20v, but once you pull the trigger on the tool, it drops to 18v. The reason it is called 20v is to differentiate between the current 18v line and the new 20v line.
You are right, the current 18v line is still far superior to most other competitors on the market.
I don’t see it that way as they have modified their 18V exstensively over the past 4 years. Seems like something isn’t working out correctly. Maybe the battery chemistry is to blame.
There is nothing that is not “working out correctly”, there is going to be an additional line. I guess i don’t see what you are trying to say. That is the factual reason for calling the line “20v MAX”, and that is the true explanation of 20v (simplified obviously). And the chemistry used in the current 18v line are widely known as the best on the market.
Calling it 20V Max is a bit deceiving since it is only 18V useable, but Dewalt is at least stating this in the interviews I have read.
If the battery chemistry is working well with the A123 batteries then why, from what I have read, are they going to a different brand battery? Typically if something is working to be “the best” then why change it?
Well, i’ve just switched to nano over the last tear, 18v for the cordless drills. DC950L2 DC920L2 and DC988 nano version. Got a circular saw and jigsaw in 36v. Kept my nailer, grinder as they are working with teh new nano batteries. And i think dewalt did right making the batteries interchangeable. But if the new ones are going to replace the old type and not be interchangeable. I’m just not intrested anymore. Someone stated lighter, on par with makita. But i don’t want a makita competitor. Old dewalt were bouncing well, when falling of a roof, and makita don’t. I think i’ll run through my battery packs, 7 nano, 7 old XRP. And see what is available at the moment when it’s time to replace. A lot of my friends quit using hilti because of the frequent battery change and non interchangeability. Lots of us running dewalt now. But i realy don’t like the new politics of dewalt. At first, they were selling us rebranded elus. Which was fine by me. And soon, they gonna sell us rebranded black and decker crap!
I don’t know how many more times that it can be said, but I will say it one more. 18v is not going away. 20v MAX is an additional line, not a replacement. If you are happy with your 18v lineup, keep using it!
Product is shipping ;D
I don’t know how many more times that it can be said, but I will say it one more. 18v is not going away. 20v MAX is an additional line, not a replacement. If you are happy with your 18v lineup, keep using it!
Some people just don’t read lol
I’m thinking a 20v Max FAQ topic should be created.
DEWALTDUDE wrote:
I’m thinking a 20v Max FAQ topic should be created.
Agreed
CTDiesel wrote:
I don’t know how many more times that it can be said, but I will say it one more. 18v is not going away. 20v MAX is an additional line, not a replacement. If you are happy with your 18v lineup, keep using it!
Some people just don’t read lol
Huh? The 18v line is going away?
(sorry, I had to do it)
We decided to test out the new line by freezing the battery and tool. The lithium-ion batteries seemed to work flawlessly…
Thanks for sharing! I’m glad someone else decided to do these test’s. Milwaukee’s claim to 0 degree temperature is total BS! 20v Max performs better than Red-Lithium in the cold!
FYI… 20v has started hitting Lowes and Home Depot Stores.
Could you please do a test of Milwaukee’s red lithium vs. dewalt 20v max batteries using them for a day of work in the cold. So what if you froze a battery then took it out and started using it at room temperature, it warms up with the use of the tool and the ambient air temp.
Do a test in a refrigerated room or in an environment where the battery doesn’t have a chance to heat up due to air temp.
if using the scientific method when product testing, you should control for air temp by keeping it constant otherwise you put a battery in a freezer chilled it to zero degrees then used it. All batteries will power the tool in zero degrees but being constantly used when its zero outside is another matter all together.
These are to show that some claim’s made by Milwaukee are not true. If the battery can not function after being frozen, then the tool will not function being sustained in the cold. I personally don’t own a refrigerator truck, or industrial freezer to do such a test. It will be a few month’s longer before it get’s cold enough outside to do that kind of testing, though I don’t see the point.
I don’t see the point either. Kind of silly. If it makes people happy, do it I guess….but if it works right out of the freezer then it should continue to work if it stayed in it.
BTW I’ve been to three different local Lowe’s stores the past couple of days. So far the once closest to me has some of the 20v max in stock.
They had the 3.0 drill but if I’m going to buy the drill I want to pick it up in a drill/impact combo kit, which they did not have.
Try Home Depot- they should have it.
Anyone know when these tools are going to be released in local stores???
They have been hitting local stores for the past couple of weeks. Keep looking, you should find them soon!
I have been looking every day now! I even contacted the local Dewalt service center and they didn’t even know… I guess I just need to wait a little longer 🙁
They are at my local Lowes, and Home Depot where I live.
I have found them at the local Lowe’s stores where I live around Indianapolis. I have not yet been into a Home Depot to see if they had them, but I would guess they do.
I’ve seen some of the tools with hard cases, but others with bags. This is frustrating, as it seems the combos come with bags, but the single tools come with hard cases. Come on DeWalt…..
CTDiesel wrote:
I have found them at the local Lowe’s stores where I live around Indianapolis. I have not yet been into a Home Depot to see if they had them, but I would guess they do.
I’ve seen some of the tools with hard cases, but others with bags. This is frustrating, as it seems the combos come with bags, but the single tools come with hard cases. Come on DeWalt…..
Why does that surprise and/or frustrate you? The far majority of combo kits on the market (all brands) come in bags, and have now for a number of years. Most customers like combo kits in bags, so they dont have such a large case to carry around. Also, a lot of people end up buying more batteries so they have one in every tool, and the hard cases do not allow for that usually. If you feel that you would prefer a hard case, than go buy a Tough Case, and put your tools in there. You will then have the nicest hard case for your tools on the job site! 🙂
If the bags for the 20V max are anything like what came with the 12V max, then I would certainly be disappointed. It’s frustrating to pay a premium price for a supposedly premium tool and only get a substandard quality carrying bag. I would think Dewalt could do better.
Jones,
Cyclone hit the nail on the head. It does not surprise me that much, but it frustrates the hell out of me. I’m not sure why you wouldn’t already know why bags frustrate so many. One problem with bags for me are that the bags wear out. I’ve got several bags that I bought throughout the years that eventually tore from regular use or had holes worn in them from where the tools inside rubbed the same spot. I bought a combo kit about 3-4 years ago that came in a bag. At first I thought it was cool, but it wasn’t long after I began to hate it. I still have it, but it is very worn with some holes, and it quit zipping up within 18 months after something landed on it and messed up part of the zipper. Another problem is the lack of protection I feel they offer. I like to take care of my stuff, especially when I’ve spent a lot of money on it. I don’t care for my power tools to be clanging around inside against each other. I’m pretty sure one of my drills was cracked in that manner a few years ago, perhaps I set the bag down too hard but I feel that had it been in a case, it wouldn’t have happened. Also the cases offer much more organization. Things are in the same spot every time and there is a little leftover room for whatever you want to put in in most cases. With a bag, it’s just a big clusterf**k of stuff. Finally, bags don’t offer much protection from liquids. I’ve been caught with my pants down in the past by sudden rain showers that I had no idea were coming, it just looked cloudy. Granted that doesn’t happen these days as I have smartphone to view radar and keep up on the weather but still, it’s an issue.
oh, I’ll also add that cases are much easier to organize and stack on shelving than bags are. In the same area that I have 3 tool bags next to each other I can probably stand up 6-8+ cases. That means a lot when you don’t have or want a large vehicle/trailer.
Bottom line, I think from my experience and what I’ve heard from others is that cases trump bags in just about every way. Yes, I can go buy some type of case or box that will do the job, as I did for my 12v max but that’s not the point.
I personally like the hardcases but in reality they are impractical for me.
In my work van I have five plastic shelving bins on the top shelf of the driver’s side rack. The first bin holds all my compressor stuff (attachments and hoses). The second bin holds all my battery packs and charging equipment. The rest of the bins hold primarily my cordless tools. Since the hardcases are all different sizes and aren’t really stackable (interlocking wise), I find that the bin arrangement can store the most tools in the least amount of space.
I have one soft bag that “permanently” holds my drill, impact driver, and all my related accessories. The other two I keep around empty. Depending on what I need on the job site, I’ll grab whatever tools from the bin and put them in the bag. A typical job would require me carrying 2 soft bags. A very advanced job perhaps all 3. For me it saves a lot of time as I don’t have to pull out hard cases and open them up. It also saves trips between the van and the job site carrying all these hard cases.
Pic 1 – right angle drill, cut out tool, jigsaw, circular saw, and bits/blade storage box.
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Pic 2 – cut off tool, flashlight, recip saw, and blades.
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Pic 3 – impact wrench, sockets, mud mixer, and framing nailer.
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Pic 4 – drill, impact driver, and lots of bits.
CTDiesel wrote:
Jones,
Cyclone hit the nail on the head. It does not surprise me that much, but it frustrates the Heck out of me. I’m not sure why you wouldn’t already know why bags frustrate so many. One problem with bags for me are that the bags wear out. I’ve got several bags that I bought throughout the years that eventually tore from regular use or had holes worn in them from where the tools inside rubbed the same spot. I bought a combo kit about 3-4 years ago that came in a bag. At first I thought it was cool, but it wasn’t long after I began to hate it. I still have it, but it is very worn with some holes, and it quit zipping up within 18 months after something landed on it and messed up part of the zipper. Another problem is the lack of protection I feel they offer. I like to take care of my stuff, especially when I’ve spent a lot of money on it. I don’t care for my power tools to be clanging around inside against each other. I’m pretty sure one of my drills was cracked in that manner a few years ago, perhaps I set the bag down too hard but I feel that had it been in a case, it wouldn’t have happened. Also the cases offer much more organization. Things are in the same spot every time and there is a little leftover room for whatever you want to put in in most cases. With a bag, it’s just a big clusterf**k of stuff. Finally, bags don’t offer much protection from liquids. I’ve been caught with my pants down in the past by sudden rain showers that I had no idea were coming, it just looked cloudy. Granted that doesn’t happen these days as I have smartphone to view radar and keep up on the weather but still, it’s an issue.
oh, I’ll also add that cases are much easier to organize and stack on shelving than bags are. In the same area that I have 3 tool bags next to each other I can probably stand up 6-8+ cases. That means a lot when you don’t have or want a large vehicle/trailer.
Bottom line, I think from my experience and what I’ve heard from others is that cases trump bags in just about every way. Yes, I can go buy some type of case or box that will do the job, as I did for my 12v max but that’s not the point.
I completely understand where you are coming from, and I did not mean for my previous comment to sound like I did not. Let me first preface with a little explanation; my job is to work with end users, and among other things, pass on information on what demands are from the field. So from my experience (as well as the rest of the team across the country), there is actually a more even split of preferences on “bag vs. case”. Most of our tools are packaged with either a case or a bag so that both users can be satisfied, but at the end of the day it is just not economical to package everything both ways. I know that this doesn’t necessarily help you guys that want the cases, but that is a simple version of the explanation. Anyway, from reading what you wrote about the benefits of cases, you should really think about investing in the Tough System. It is an additional investment, but it will exponentially increase your case durability, weather proof preparedness, and accessory/fasteners (or miscellaneous accessory/tool) that find their way into your tool boxes. I’m not trying to sell you on anything, but after just setting up my Tough system, I am a firm believer and I think it will make you really happy as an organizational platform, and a tool storage system.
the tough system is really great;
I have all three (4 variants)
DS150
DS300
DS400
(Europe part #), but same boxes avail in USA
DS150 with yellow “inlay small boxes, some 8 boxes , different sizes” for better storage of parts, small items,..
2)
my actual question:
are there any further “inlay” adaptors planned ?
example:
buy a new recip saw, boxed in “normal yellow packaging”, but also include an inlay adaptor for one of the tough cases
B)
maybe also some type of foam adaptors, etc
(nice yellow / black Dewalt foam)
… just look at the good job Bosch is doing with their systainer / L-Boxx system;
almost perfect!
We all know Stanley/Dewalt has the expertise to do this, at the moment they are just not coming thru …
aside from the fact of the “new market introduction of the new 20VMax system, some kind of marketing gag or neat item introduction would have been great !
… where are all the guys/gals that study marketing…
this is obvoius !!!!
greetings
mike
from sunny Munich, Octoberfest HQ; you all agree that right now I have a bit of different focus !!!
I would like to invest in the toughsystem some day. I will not rule it out, but for the time being I’m going to strategically buy my 20v max stuff so that it comes in cases, which from my research I know I can do. It’ll cost more but that’s what I prefer.
iseebird wrote:
I have been looking every day now! I even contacted the local Dewalt service center and they didn’t even know… I guess I just need to wait a little longer 🙁
I was out of town & stopped by a Home Depot in Kansas City a couple weeks ago. They had some 20v Max kits. Weird how this was one of the first stores to get these new kits, but one of the very last ones to get the new DC012 radio.
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
tmccarty wrote:
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
They are put in there so that the kits can hit a lower price point. The other competitors on the market do it as well, so it skews the price of the larger combo kits. The DeWALT tools in those kits are still built to professional quality standards, they just have a few different features.
tmccarty wrote:
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
They are put in there so that the kits can hit a lower price point. The other competitors on the market do it as well, so it skews the price of the larger combo kits. The DeWALT tools in those kits are still built to professional quality standards, they just have a few different features.
Exactly right, Milwaukee’s kit at HD has a different drill in it. I think Makita’s too. Has to be done in order to hit those low pricepoints you see at retailers. They also don’t list those features on the combo kits and it was also stated in the press release for the 20v max system.
Gatorb888 wrote:
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
Looks like the recip saw that comes in the 4 and 5 pc combo is not the same one as advertised on the DeWALT site. No 4 position blade clamp or adjustable shoe. From the looks of it the circ saw is different too. Stamped table vs. magnesium table. Why is DeWALT putting lower quality tools in the combo kits and charging an arm and a leg for them?
They are put in there so that the kits can hit a lower price point. The other competitors on the market do it as well, so it skews the price of the larger combo kits. The DeWALT tools in those kits are still built to professional quality standards, they just have a few different features.
Exactly right, Milwaukee’s kit at HD has a different drill in it. I think Makita’s too. Has to be done in order to hit those low pricepoints you see at retailers. They also don’t list those features on the combo kits and it was also stated in the press release for the 20v max system.
Guys, get your facts straight before posting. Milwaukee does not put a different drill in their kit at HD. Not sure about Makita
This is the kit sold at my local Home Depot.
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Kit Model 2696-24. Below is what MilwaukeeTool.com say’s is in kit 2696-24;
The 2696-24 M18â„¢ cordless LITHIUM-ION 4-tool combo kit includes the 1/2″ Hammer Drill / Driver (2602-20), Sawzall® Recip Saw (2620-20), 1/4″ Hex Impact Driver (2650-20), and Work Light (49-24-0171). The M18â„¢ Cordless LITHIUM-ION System’s patented technologies and electronics, innovative motor design, and superior ergonomics provide the most efficient blend of power, weight and performance in the industry. Powered by RED LITHIUMâ„¢ the M18â„¢ cordless system delivers more torque, more power, and longer run-time than the competition.
Milwaukee 2602-20 is not Milwaukee’s top 18v hammerdrill. The 2611-24 is.
2611-24
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*Voltage 18V
*Torque 750 in-lbs
*RPM High 0-1,800
*RPM Low 0-450
*BPM 0-28,000
*Battery RED LITHIUMâ„¢
*Length 9-1/4″
*Tool Weight 5.3 lbs
*Shipping Weight 13.25 lbs
*Size 9-1/4″
2602-20
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*Voltage 18V
*Torque 525 in-lbs
*Chuck Type 1/2″ Single Sleeve
*RPM 0-550/0-1,700
*BPM 0-29,000
*Battery RED LITHIUMâ„¢
*Length 8-1/2″
*Tool Weight 4.9 lbs
Where am I wrong?
You are wrong on the M18 combo- it has the same Hammer Drill that is sold in store, the compact hammer drill. It is advertised as such. The Makita on the other hand has a different Hammer Drill in both the 4 pc combo AND the 2 pc combo than what is sold as stand alone in store. Then there is the DeWALT set- the circ that DeWALT carries is a stamped auminum base, which is heavier than a Magnsium base aswell as not as durable on the jobsite, AND the Recip in the 4 pc combo is a cheaper version with no 4 way blade clamp… and no metal gear housing-THAT is what I call not being honest. You need to get your facts straight, my friend. The Milwaukee and Makita sets are both going for a compact set up, vs. a huge boat anchor that gives you a full work out while you drill. The sets are designed for power AND runtime at more affordable prices, it would appear to me. Not to mention a 5 year warranty on the Milwaukee. DeWALT is a 3 year limited warranty, just like Makita and most other manufacturers. Battery warranty is the same on DeWALT and Milwaukee as well. Glad to see those are similar at least.