Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Power Tools). This thread is read-only.
I’ve been looking around at routers. I have explored various models from various companies.
I plan on doing 3/4″ dado work and round overs with this router. If I build any work benches I may use a spiral bit for dog cutting. I may eventually install it into a router table with router lift.
I want a router that has good height adjustment, accepts both 1/4″ and 1/2″ collets, and works with the DeWALT track attachment. If there is a better track attachment I would be open to suggestion. I will be going with DeWALT rails for now. I plan to get the Flexvolt track saw when it becomes available in the states.
I figured a plunge router would be good for these tasks. In my research I tended to gravitate towards the 3 hp models. There’s a point in which you want to go a bit more than you need for the “just incase moments” but I’m not sure if I would need 3 hp model. Is it too much or would a smaller model be sufficient. Each router I looked at have pros and cons. I would be open to suggestions. The more I think about it a 2ish hp model may be sufficient but I have done the most research on 3ish hp models. I may do some research on some 2ish hp models when I get the time
Heres what I found for 3ish hp models
The Milwaukee
Price: 309.00 usd
Pros: seemed like it had good height adjustment with above table adjustment, 36 position speed dial, most powerful, nice big handles
Cons: it is fixed base only, one review said the bit change can be tricky when mounted under a table, no led, no apparent dust collection
The DeWALT
Price: 277.97 usd
Pros: Plunge base, Dust collection, includes 1/4″ and 1/2″ collets, lighter weight of the bunch, accepts the track adapter for sure
Cons: weak handles, no led
The Bosch
Price: 335.33 usd
Pros: Plunge base, Dust collection, includes 1/4″ and 1/2″ collets, precision centering design, turret adjustment is more than 3 positions
Cons: dust port is weak, no led, heavier one of the bunch
The Makita
Price: 299.99 usd
Pros: Plunge base, dual led, electric brake, chip deflector, 2-3/4″ plunge capacity, fan designed to keep dust out of motor, includes 1/4″ and 1/2″ collets
Cons: heavier one of the bunch, no apparent dust collection
The Festool
Price: 920.00 usd
Pros: Rolls Royce of routers not much else to say
Cons: Heaviest of the bunch, Most expensive of the bunch, no 1/4″ collect included, no power rating listed, no led
To be honest all routers will do whatever you want it to do. Some more than others.
My opinion is Id skip the Festool and get one of the above mentioned and use the remainder to buy some good quality router bits. Cheap bits can make the best router lack.
I own and use the Makita RP2301FC and it does everything I need. Also forgot to mention the Makita can also be used on a track.
The 3 1/4 – 3 1/2 hp routers are a bear to use when not mounted in a table. We only use them free hand when cutting 3/4 plywood.
I recently picked up a PC 890 with fixed and plunge base. It’s 2 1/4 hp and a nice size to run when not in a table.
StrippedScrew wrote:
1 hour ago, StrippedScrew said:To be honest all routers will do whatever you want it to do. Some more than others.
My opinion is Id skip the Festool and get one of the above mentioned and use the remainder to buy some good quality router bits. Cheap bits can make the best router lack.
I own and use the Makita RP2301FC and it does everything I need. Also forgot to mention the Makita can also be used on a track.
I was actually considering the Makita if I were to go the 3hp route. how is dust collection and is it a bear to use like @SetBuilder mentioned? I’m leaning more towards a 2 hp model now except the 2 hp makita doesn’t look as good but idk.
Jronman wrote:
20 minutes ago, Jronman said:I was actually considering the Makita if I were to go the 3hp route. how is dust collection and is it a bear to use like @SetBuilder mentioned? I’m leaning more towards a 2 hp model now except the 2 hp makita doesn’t look as good but idk.
It came with a dust sucking cover but that is long gone so for me dust is a bit of a prick 🙂
All 3hp can be a handful at times. But it really depends on what you want out of your router. What I mean do you want something to hog of material or something for more detailed work. A 2hp is no slouch either.
As far as the festool you are looking at the big dog. That thing is an animal and more than I would want to use (as setbuilder said). If you wanted Festool, I would like at the 1400 instead.
Are you set on the track? I have a Festool and complete track setup and rarely use it.
And regarding Festool they make nice routers but I have to say I like the dewalts I have owned as well or better when it comes to ergonomic, which is important on a router. What fits your hand will do the best work.
And finally, I would not want to be without plunge on at least one router. Multiple routers is ideal 🙂
Aren’t routers the one thing that PC still makes quality products of?
I have a PC 690, 890 and 7539 and I’m happy with all of them.
Now im just trying to decide on a trim router.
SetBuilder wrote:
6 minutes ago, SetBuilder said:I have a PC 690, 890 and 7539 and I’m happy with all of them.
Now im just trying to decide on a trim router.
What is your primary use for it?
I have a dewalt compact router which has never had anything but a round-over bit in it. Works great and my most used router.
No dust collection though which is OK.
3 H.P. is overkill for what you are doing. My experience is with the Porter-Cable 690 and the 890 which can use the same bases as the 690. I am not going to encourage you to purchase one of them just because of that. You probably would be happiest with a router in the 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 HP range with variable speed settings and I would suggest is that you get a kit that comes with a fixed base and a plunge base. You want to run it with DeWALT track so it would be easiest to look at them although Porter-Cable was the standard for so long, most of the patterns for any router table plate list the PCs first. The one I would look at first would be the DW618PKB, you can pick one up at Lowe’s for $199.
SetBuilder wrote:
1 hour ago, SetBuilder said:I have a PC 690, 890 and 7539 and I’m happy with all of them.
Now im just trying to decide on a trim router.
If you actually look at the newer PC compact router and the DeWALT you will see some serious similarities the only difference aside from the color is the DeWALT has an LED which the Porter-Cable doesn’t, have a look: https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/routers?brand[]=Porter+Cable&brand[]=DeWalt&hp[]=1.25+HP
My next router will be the Dewalt DW618PK. 2-1/4 HP, ccepts 1/2″ collet, soft start, fixed and plunge base, and I like the adjustment on it. Can be had for ~$150
The only way I’d want a 3+ HP monster is if I were dedicating it to a table. They are a bitch to freehand with. If I needed that kind of capacity on a regular basis I’d bite the bullet and get a shaper.
rrmccabe wrote:
4 hours ago, rrmccabe said:What is your primary use for it?
I have a dewalt compact router which has never had anything but a round-over bit in it. Works great and my most used router.
No dust collection though which is OK.
+1 I have the Makita compact router and I use my full size router ONLY when the compact won’t work. I do wish I’d have bought the kit with the plunge base though. The plunge base by itself is almost as much as the router, so I just never pulled the trigger.
Grumpy MSG wrote:
3 hours ago, Grumpy MSG said:If you actually look at the newer PC compact router and the DeWALT you will see some serious similarities the only difference aside from the color is the DeWALT has an LED which the Porter-Cable doesn’t, have a look: https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/routers?brand[]=Porter+Cable&brand[]=DeWalt&hp[]=1.25+HP
At work we have 6 carpentry crews. Each crew has a Knaack box 129 for shop tools. Each crew gets 2 PC 690s either a 7539 or a 7518 and 2 trim routers either a PC 450 or PCE6435. The crew I’m on also has a Dewalt in the box. I agree, the dewalt is pretty much identical to the PC 450.
rrmccabe wrote:
4 hours ago, rrmccabe said:What is your primary use for it?
I have a dewalt compact router which has never had anything but a round-over bit in it. Works great and my most used router.
No dust collection though which is OK.
Small round overs, laminate / veneer work, morticing door hinges. I’m leaning towards the bosch colt or looking for a deal on eBay for for a PC7301. If the new bosch came out I would grab that.
I’m not really concerned about dust collection as my home shop is open air.
Damn this place! This thread peaked my interest in a new router again and I went and ordered the 2-1/4 HP DW618PK:
2-1/4 is a nice size. It’s got the power to do anything I need it to do, without the bulk of a 3+ beast.
StrippedScrew wrote:
8 hours ago, StrippedScrew said:
It came with a dust sucking cover but that is long gone so for me dust is a bit of a prick 🙂
All 3hp can be a handful at times. But it really depends on what you want out of your router. What I mean do you want something to hog of material or something for more detailed work. A 2hp is no slouch either.
Accidentally went back a page in my browser and lost a message. Guess I’ll try a second time haha.
Upon further research I have decided 3 hp is too much and not sure how much use I would get out of a multi base router so I have also ruled them out. I also ruled out trim routers and 1ish hp routers. I feel like a 2ish hp plunge router will be what I want to go with. The dewalt and milwaukee offerings look nice but I have found 2 better options.
I really like the Bosch and the Festool offerings. I am torn between which one to choose. Not sure which is the Smarter decision.
Bosch
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/plunge-routers-mrp23evs-34700-p/
I will include router, track router adapter, one ds300, and one 59 in rail
Pros: Led Light, more bit options (if I go with Bosch bits), more durable storage box,
Cons: less accessory offerings, not much comes with the router because not a kit.
Price: $225.00 for router, $53.95 for tracksaw router adapter, $72.65 for one 59in rail, $50.74 for the ds300
Total Price: $402.34
Festool
https://www.festoolusa.com/products/routing/routers/574691—of-1010-eq-f-plus-usa#Overview
I will include the router set, one guide rail with holes, and one 1/2″ collet
Pros: more accessory offerings, more adjustment, more versatile?, storage and rail adapter included with the kit, 3/8 collet and edge guide are an added bonus. rail works with flexvolt track saw.
Cons: higher price, no led (that I know of), possibly steeper learning curve?
Price: $450.00 router kit, $136.00 1400mm rail with holes, $46.00 1/2″ collet
Total Price: $632.00
@ChrisK I have a few questions about the Festool 1010 router. Does it take awhile to learn how to use and adjust the router? Does it have a light? Does it come with Imperial measurements? Final question. Do you recommend this as a first router or should it be something I should get later down the road when I am more experienced?
for having many years experience with routers the only advice I can give you is a router is only as good as the bit you have in it. There are dozens of routers that will do just fine in the 1.5hp to 2 hp range with or without all the bells and whistles. The best router in the world is not going to be any better than an entry level router if you have a crappy bit in them. Just remember regardless of what router you pick it will or should be the cheapest part of a good router set up.
So many people spend most of their money on the router and then buy cheap router bits when they should be spending the money on good router bits. Out of all my routers my favorite is a 20 year old D handle Porter Cable, 1.75HP slap some good Whiteside bits in it and that router will keep up with the best out there….
I have the Dewalt router and I really like it it has plenty of power and has not disappointed me yet
This is an easy one for me. Bosch actually has two (2+ HP) plunge router kits….the 1617EVSPK and the MRC23EVSK. I have both of them.
Out of these, I would definitely buy the 1617 again and again. It has been around for a very long time (tried and true) and does everything extremely well. I would not buy the MRC23 again for two reasons. You can not mount it in a router lift because of the power switch being on the base handle. Also, if something goes wrong with the contacts from the router base unit and the router itself, you are SOL.
Porter Cable used to be very good at making routers, but that was before Black N Decker bought them out. They tend to have quality issues now and would stay away from them.
Don’t know much about DeWalt routers. The palm router is excellent, but I know nothing of the full sized unit. If that is the only one that works with the track, I would go that route, otherwise I would still go with the Bosch.
Festool……Not unless I was a pro making money at it or I just wanted the best. I have not used one though. I do have the $100 sander that came out this year, but I’m not impressed with it.
3+ HP units…… Not needed unless you plan on running shaper bits with it. The 2+HP units handle everything I throw at it with ease. As a matter of fact, the palm routers I have handle nearly everything I throw at it.
I completely agree with the people above, buy quality bits. I also love Whiteside…as good as Freud but cheaper and made in the USA.
I think I am going to pick up the 1617 this week. I am going to mount this in a table.
I think going with the Bosch is a smarter move. May try a few cmt bits as well maybe I can look at the whiteside as well. I am unfamiliar with whiteside. I heard cmt are good quality bits and they are convenient to buy because they are sold at my local Menards.
I have heard good things about Whiteside bits.
whiteside make some of the best bits available, not cheap but what is $5 or $10 between friends……
Grumpy MSG wrote:
15 hours ago, Grumpy MSG said:3 H.P. is overkill for what you are doing. My experience is with the Porter-Cable 690 and the 890 which can use the same bases as the 690. I am not going to encourage you to purchase one of them just because of that. You probably would be happiest with a router in the 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 HP range with variable speed settings and I would suggest is that you get a kit that comes with a fixed base and a plunge base. You want to run it with DeWALT track so it would be easiest to look at them although Porter-Cable was the standard for so long, most of the patterns for any router table plate list the PCs first. The one I would look at first would be the DW618PKB, you can pick one up at Lowe’s for $199.
This is what I was going to say. You’d be surprised how power a 2hp router has.
Save money on a router and buy some quality bits, accessories and router table. I kind of want to pick up the Keter-made Husky work table with router plate too. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-8-ft-x-3-ft-Portable-Jobsite-Workbench-225047/205887786
I have decided this is the router I want to get:
Bosch MRP23EVS 2.3 HP Electronic Plunge-Base Router
Also thinking these 2 bit sets would be sufficient for starters:
3 pc Router Bit Set for Undersize Plywood, 1/2 Shank, Whiteside 470
5 pc Roundover and Beading Bit Set, 1/4 Shank, Whiteside 502
Thanks for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
rrmccabe wrote:
17 hours ago, rrmccabe said:Are you set on the track? I have a Festool and complete track setup and rarely use it.
I’m gonna use the track for dado and rabbets. Mostly for 3/4″ and 1/4″ ply. I may do a bit of cleaning up edges or dog cutting with the track as well.
Jronman wrote:
1 hour ago, Jronman said:I have decided this is the router I want to get:
Bosch MRP23EVS 2.3 HP Electronic Plunge-Base Router
Also thinking these 2 bit sets would be sufficient for starters:
3 pc Router Bit Set for Undersize Plywood, 1/2 Shank, Whiteside 470
5 pc Roundover and Beading Bit Set, 1/4 Shank, Whiteside 502
Thanks for the help everyone. I really appreciate it.
I’m gonna use the track for dado and rabbets. Mostly for 3/4″ and 1/4″ ply. I may do a bit of cleaning up edges or dog cutting with the track as well.
NO NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT get the MRP23EVS.
I have this unit. It is okay, but will not work as a unit you can put in a router lift. I brought that fact up to the Bosch router people when I went to one of their media events. I asked what they were thinking and they didn’t want to talk about it. It looked like it was a sore subject with them.
Just trying to help you out here. I learned the hard way. I had that unit first and then had to go buy a 1617 for the lift I bought.
tugnut1 wrote:
1 hour ago, tugnut1 said:I have this unit. It is okay, but will not work as a unit you can put in a router lift.
Thanks for the info. Its not a huge deal its not lift compatible except the multibase sounds like a better option now haha. what do you think of this model?
Bosch MRC23EVSK
It is similar to the one you have except looks like it has more ergonomic handles, led light, on/off trigger instead of on/off switch, and soft start.
Jronman wrote:
15 minutes ago, Jronman said:
Thanks for the info. Its not a huge deal its not lift compatible except the multibase sounds like a better option now haha. what do you think of this model?
Bosch MRC23EVSK
It is similar to the one you have except looks like it has more ergonomic handles, led light, on/off trigger instead of on/off switch, and soft start.
This is the same model. The only difference is this one comes with a standard base and a plunge base verses just the plunge base. If you don’t ever think you will use it in a router table lift, then its okay, but I still wouldn’t go with it.
Here is why. In the bases, standard and plunge, there are groove on the inside that line up with grooves on motor. This is where the connection is made from your handles (trigger) to the motor itself. I have had the trigger not start the motor on occasion. I have to fiddle with it a bit and then its fine. I think it has to do with how the base connects to the motor. Its just an area that can go wrong. I know any power switch can fail, but there has to be a reason why no other tool company has picked up this design. The thought for this switch modification is so you can start the unit with both hands on the router verses taking one hand off to start the unit. With a plunge base, it doesn’t matter and with a standard base, you will never be starting the router with the bit on the wood already….so to me its not a factor.
Sorry, I just don’t want to see someone make the same mistake I did. Its not a bad router, but it has its drawbacks.
@tugnut1 oh haha I didn’t even notice it was the same router.
@tugnut1 does the 1617 have a light? I seen posts that don’t mention a light and posts that do. Also does the plunge base have fine depth adjustment like the fixed base?
Jronman wrote:
46 minutes ago, Jronman said:@tugnut1 does the 1617 have a light? I seen posts that don’t mention a light and posts that do. Also does the plunge base have fine depth adjustment like the fixed base?
No light
Freud bits are good too but I don’t care for their bearings
When I got into routing a few years ago before my forum days, I had no idea what I needed to start out. I wanted to cover all bases, but I didn’t want shitty bits either.
I ended up buying this 36 piece carbide set from Grizzly:
IIRC I gave $99 for it, but keep in mind this has been 8-10 years ago. I figured this set would get me started, then I could replace them as needed with higher end stuff. I’ve yet to replace one and if I did, I’d probably buy theses again. They’ve been great bits for the price I paid.
They aren’t the quality of Freud bits, but I’ll say I’ve probably used them at least once a month. I keep them clean and keep check on the bearings, but they’ve honestly been great.
I get all my Whiteside bits and other things here they have some nice tools but most are high end stuff
Jronman wrote:
6 hours ago, Jronman said:@tugnut1 does the 1617 have a light? I seen posts that don’t mention a light and posts that do. Also does the plunge base have fine depth adjustment like the fixed base?
I wouldn’t worry about a light, the moment the dust starts to fly, it really doesn’t help a whole lot.
Conductor562 wrote:
1 hour ago, Conductor562 said:When I got into routing a few years ago before my forum days, I had no idea what I needed to start out. I wanted to cover all bases, but I didn’t want shitty bits either.
I ended up buying this 36 piece carbide set from Grizzly:
IIRC I gave $99 for it, but keep in mind this has been 8-10 years ago. I figured this set would get me started, then I could replace them as needed with higher end stuff. I’ve yet to replace one and if I did, I’d probably buy theses again. They’ve been great bits for the price I paid.
They aren’t the quality of Freud bits, but I’ll say I’ve probably used them at least once a month. I keep them clean and keep check on the bearings, but they’ve honestly been great.
I was looking at those recently, thanks for the recommendation.
BMack37 wrote:
1 hour ago, BMack37 said:
I was looking at those recently, thanks for the recommendation.
FYI: With Grizzly, the purple bits are the higher end while the ugly green are the lower end.
It wasn’t that many years ago that you needed to stick with top of the line bits. I have a lot of the CMT bits and some whiteside bits.
But the Chinese knockoff bits seem to be about equal in quality now.
Conductor562 wrote:
20 hours ago, Conductor562 said:
FYI: With Grizzly, the purple bits are the higher end while the ugly green are the lower end.
Thanks, there really doesn’t seem to be anything telling you what the difference is…Right now my only experience is with Ryobi and Freud bits. Ryobi bits have been better than I had hoped.
You know, check Whiteside on Amazon in the warehouse. I’ve gotten some sick deals on several of my bits through them.
BMack37 wrote:
14 hours ago, BMack37 said:
Thanks, there really doesn’t seem to be anything telling you what the difference is…Right now my only experience is with Ryobi and Freud bits. Ryobi bits have been better than I had hoped.
There used to be a little more info in the catalog about them. For the green bits the only feature they really cite are 600 grit carbide edges. For the purple “Super Duty” they tout 800 grit carbide, 4140 steel, and being made in an ISO 9001 factory (which almost inevitably means Taiwan rather than China).
In any event, it’s been a great set
I use Whiteside mostly. I have a skill set, a Bosch, and a CMT set. Have a local source for Whiteside and Freud bits.
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You might give the triton a look as well. I really like mine.
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Pretty much agree with everyone here, 3HP and above is pretty cumbersome to handle freehand. Best used in a router table. I have the PC 7532(3 1/2HP) in a cast iron Bench Dog router lift. Love this setup, being able to adjust the router bit height from above is the best thing since sliced bread. For freehand work I use the Bosch 1617 and Bosch Colt. I try to use the Colt whenever I can get away with it because the thing is so damn handy.
Also second Conductors recommendation, the Grizzly 36 piece router set is a great way to start. The only bits that I have upgraded are the 1/2″, 3/4″ straight bits an the 1/4″ round over. Though I have added quite a few bits to this set, the tongue and groove set is probably used the most(I do a lot of wainscot and cabinet doors). Whiteside and CMT are great upgrade bits.
Conductor562 wrote:
On 4/7/2017 at 11:53 AM, Conductor562 said:
There used to be a little more info in the catalog about them. For the green bits the only feature they really cite are 600 grit carbide edges. For the purple “Super Duty” they tout 800 grit carbide, 4140 steel, and being made in an ISO 9001 factory (which almost inevitably means Taiwan rather than China).
In any event, it’s been a great set
I ended up getting a good deal on the 15-piece Skil set, $21 for it new, couldn’t pass it up. Hopefully they’ll at least be as good as the Ryobi bits that I’ve been impressed with.
Myself is using the Bosch router GOF 1600 CE.
So far i am satisfying with the quality and results of the outcome.
The only thing need to improve is the packaging only comes with fix router plunge base and without the vacuum adapter.
I will give 4 stars for this product.
Swan
with a good set of bits my hitachi m12vc has done everything I have asked from it
