Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Power Tools). This thread is read-only.
So, I’ve got around $300 to spend and I think I’m finally gonna invest in a metal cutting bandsaw. I’d like a porta-band, but I think I’m gonna start out with a floor model. $300 isn’t going to get me many bells and whistles, but for what I do, I don’t need many.
I’m considering 2 models which are as follows:
Grizzly G0622 @ $299 + $79 shipping (Total $378)
or
Eastwood 20650 @ $319 + $62 shipping (-$30 Off bringing the total to $351)
I thought these were the exact same saw with different paint, but after reading a little further into it, that may not be the case.
The Eastwood is listed as a 1hp 3 speed (80, 120, and 200 FPM). 4×6″ rectangle or 4.5″ round cut capacity, and angles up to 55 degrees.
The Grizzly is listed at only 3/4hp, also a 3 speed but with a negligible speed difference @ 78, 108, and 180 FPM. Grizzly also lists an angle capacity to 60 degrees, but aside from that, capacity is identical.
Looking at the 2 saws there is no doubt in my mind they come from the same factory in China. The price difference isn’t an issue, cutting capacity is almost identical, both use a 64-1/2″ x 1/2″ blade, etc, etc, etc.
I have used both companies multiple times before and have no reservations about either of them. I prefer the look of the Eastwood saw, it’s almost $30 cheaper, and does appear to have an extra 1/4hp, but I really have no reservations that either saw will be insufficient.
Take a look at them and let me know what you guys think. Maybe you guys see something that I don’t.
I would go with Eastwood. It would be nice if they would tell you the motor manufacturer.
I have used several bandsaws in both portable an stationary. I however have no expierence in either models shown. One was very similar to those shown but not exact. I still probably wouldn’t give either one a chance.
For my use I would stick with a porta band. Millwakee has a very good deep cut model. It’s got a 5×5″ capacity. When you really need to you can rotate around workpiece for more capacity but sacrifice precision. The portable bandsaw in general won’t give you 100% accuracy. It will however get pretty close. For what people do in there garage with a little practice it works fine.
With the ones shown an even cheap stationary models I’ve noticed blade tracking an tension are usually a issue. When that happens your portable bandsaw will be more precise.
You can also get small tables made to fit your portable bandsaw turning it into a benchtop model. There’s also templates on the internet for making your own tables an jigs.
I know a lot of that wasn’t what you were looking for. I just would really recommend giving it some thought. As always it depends on your exact needs so I could be wrong on what’s best.
@Fletcher94: Thanks for the feedback. I’ve seen several instances where people had to replace the blade tracking bearings after awhile. This isn’t going to be a daily or even weekly use item for me. There is a fancier model in the $600 range from Grizzly (G9742), but it’s basically an upgraded version of the same saw with the same motor and basic components. To get into the next tier, with a better motor, auto coolant system, etc, I’d be up around $1000 and seeing how I’ll use it probably once a month on average, it isn’t really worth the extra money.
I initially wanted to go the portable route, but most of the stands I looked at were going to make that the significantly more expensive route to go. Milwaukee has a very nice stand, but it’s $300 by itself. I have every intention of having both by years end, so this is just a starting point.
Accuracy was the biggest factor in my decision. Cutting metal isn’t an issue for me. I have a plasma cutter, chop saw, and several recip saws, but doing it with a higher degree of precision is my whole reason for getting a bandsaw.
Don’t have experience with metal cutting bandsaws but I do have experience with Grizzly. I have their 14″ bandsaw and Grizzly’s customer service is great. I had a bandsaw blade break after only a week of very light use and they replaced it free of charge.
My experience has been that dry cut chop saws are more precise than cheap bandsaws for the price not to mention so much lower maintenance. Probably not what you wanted to hear though.
Ive used an old grizzly which I think was the same you posted and it gave me no end of trouble. Lousy accuracy when it did work but that could just be age.
Grizzly appears to have an additional adjustment handle on the front of it, I’m more familiar with grizzly tools
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JimboS1ice wrote:
26 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:Grizzly appears to have an additional adjustment handle on the front of it, I’m more familiar with grizzly tools
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Where do you see an additional adjustment?
Conductor562 wrote:
Where do you see an additional adjustment?
Looks like the Eastwood has it to,taking a closer look, angle is different throws the perspective off
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JimboS1ice wrote:
3 minutes ago, JimboS1ice said:
Looks like the Eastwood has it to,taking a closer look, angle is different throws the perspective off
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Damnit man! 10 minutes I spent looking for an extra knob! ?
Conductor562 wrote:
Damnit man! 10 minutes I spent looking for an extra knob! [emoji26]
Ha sorry bud, you could always tack one on to make you feel better
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Haven’t used either of those models but i would choose grizzly because of the other tools i have used and purchased from grizzly. They stand behind there products.
Conductor562 wrote:
On 12/28/2016 at 11:21 AM, Conductor562 said:@Fletcher94: Thanks for the feedback. I’ve seen several instances where people had to replace the blade tracking bearings after awhile. This isn’t going to be a daily or even weekly use item for me. There is a fancier model in the $600 range from Grizzly (G9742), but it’s basically an upgraded version of the same saw with the same motor and basic components. To get into the next tier, with a better motor, auto coolant system, etc, I’d be up around $1000 and seeing how I’ll use it probably once a month on average, it isn’t really worth the extra money.
I initially wanted to go the portable route, but most of the stands I looked at were going to make that the significantly more expensive route to go. Milwaukee has a very nice stand, but it’s $300 by itself. I have every intention of having both by years end, so this is just a starting point.
Accuracy was the biggest factor in my decision. Cutting metal isn’t an issue for me. I have a plasma cutter, chop saw, and several recip saws, but doing it with a higher degree of precision is my whole reason for getting a bandsaw.
If your just using once a month your right, either would do.
Yeh the stands aren’t cheap. My co worker has one from swag off road. Not sure what it costs but it’s not complicated to make. I keep saying I am gonna make my own for my trucks receiver. Like many other things it’s still just a idea in my head.
youle have to let us know the one you choose.
I don’t have experience with metal cutting bandsaws but I’ve had great experience with grizzly and they make a great product
You make a decision yet?
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JimboS1ice wrote:
4 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:You make a decision yet?
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LOL, no. I may just wait and get a better saw when funds permit ?
A good quality portable bandsaw would meet your price point. I doubt you could go wrong with a Milwaukee, DeWALT or even an older used Porter-Cable Portaband.I know that Porter-Cable and I think Milwaukee had some vice attachments available, I don’t know about DeWALT. Fletcher94 mentioned Swag Offroad’s stands they do make a few versions that fit various models of saws and the the more expensive ones are around $125.
Conductor562 wrote:
On 1/2/2017 at 2:55 AM, Conductor562 said:
LOL, no. I may just wait and get a better saw when funds permit ?
That sounds like an excellent idea to me. I had one of the original no name knock-offs that was the spitting image of these. Gave it to my brother years ago, and he still has it around somewhere, but he keeps threatening to scrap it. The base had a severe case of wobbles (bit like a weeble, only I doubt it would stand back up on its own), and had to be reinforced with a piece of ply in the shelf area. The wheels were like the ones on the Grizzly and nearly useless. Too much flex in the mounts and the legs kept catching on the floor when trying to move it around. Combined with the flex in the stand, it was unnerving, and aggravating, to shift it around when needed. There were also issues with the blade tracking at times,the clamp not maintaining good pressure, and finicky/cumbersome adjustment to get it close to a square cut the first time, etc.. I bought it as a stop gap for a custom project where I had to manufacture all of the metal trim/hardware on a large furniture grade office trim-out. It got me through it, but it probably cost me as much in time as the price of a better saw over the time I did keep it.
Grizzly has a new model out. Similar in spec to the cheaper one, but this one runs about $100 more and is made in Taiwan instead of China.
Being tax time and all, I may give this one a shot. It isn’t in stock yet, but I don’t need it immediately either.
What do you guys think?
Conductor562 wrote:
8 hours ago, Conductor562 said:Grizzly has a new model out. Similar in spec to the cheaper one, but this one runs about $100 more and is made in Taiwan instead of China.
Being tax time and all, I may give this one a shot. It isn’t in stock yet, but I don’t need it immediately either.
What do you guys think?
pretty nice saw man love the stand . I wish I could give more feedback but I just have used big ones and I haven’t used anything grizzly. But I do think lenox blades are really nice thats what we use at the high school and it would be cool if u used it more to have a liquid cutting fluid system on it . it really saves the blade
Conductor562 wrote:
9 hours ago, Conductor562 said:Grizzly has a new model out. Similar in spec to the cheaper one, but this one runs about $100 more and is made in Taiwan instead of China.
Being tax time and all, I may give this one a shot. It isn’t in stock yet, but I don’t need it immediately either.
What do you guys think?
Looks like a capable unit but I have to jump on the portaband w/table (even a DIY cheaper option) for price. If you’re going to end up with both down the road I’d just do one and get more out of it (I know, I know, not what you expect from the crew lol). I’ve never read a single complaint about the M18 Fuel model, and the Dewalt looks to be a carbon copy in new casing. I’m personally going to go with the Fuel at some point later this year.
@Bremon I get the logic, but probably 90% of the cuts I’d make with a potraband are cuts I’d be better off making with a stationary saw. Not to mention that this unit is roughly the same price as the Fuel saw kit price and even if I went the bare tool route, I’d still have more in it by the time I bought the stand. I’d end up paying more money for portability I didn’t need and have less capacity to boot.
@CATERPILLAR lube is a must, but to get an auto unit you have to be up in the $1000 range. I’ll just have do it manually.
Touché, makes sense.
I have a Jet that I bought about 6 years ago and it does a great job. However I bought a Fein metal cutting saw a few months ago and the band-saw has not been plugged in since. Far superior cut on the Fein.
I plan to keep the band-saw in the corner for a while in case I figure out something I cant cut on the Fein as far as capacity but I might end up getting rid of it.
I have a Ridgid chop saw that uses the abrasive wheels, but the cut quality leaves a little to be desired.
@rrmccabe Are you talking about the chop style saw or the circular saw?
I have both the chop saw and circular saw but was referring to the chop saw.
There is no comparison between an abrasive wheel saw and one of these. I have had several abrasive saws. The problem with the abrasive wheel saw is the blade bends and then you get a crooked cut.
The fein saw runs at slower speed and cuts straight. You can even take off a bladed width.
When you finish the cut you can put your hand on it and its not warm.
The circular saw is amazing and defies logic. I have cut through plate 2″ thick with it.
Conductor562 wrote:
2 hours ago, Conductor562 said:@Bremon I get the logic, but probably 90% of the cuts I’d make with a potraband are cuts I’d be better off making with a stationary saw. Not to mention that this unit is roughly the same price as the Fuel saw kit price and even if I went the bare tool route, I’d still have more in it by the time I bought the stand. I’d end up paying more money for portability I didn’t need and have less capacity to boot.
@CATERPILLAR lube is a must, but to get an auto unit you have to be up in the $1000 range. I’ll just have do it manually.
No I mean try to fab one for the saw
rrmccabe wrote:
I have both the chop saw and circular saw but was referring to the chop saw.
There is no comparison between an abrasive wheel saw and one of these. I have had several abrasive saws. The problem with the abrasive wheel saw is the blade bends and then you get a crooked cut.
The fein saw runs at slower speed and cuts straight. You can even take off a bladed width.
When you finish the cut you can put your hand on it and its not warm.
The circular saw is amazing and defies logic. I have cut through plate 2″ thick with it.
Cold cut saw? Skilsaw has one out too
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Yes. I think there are several company’s out that have them. I just liked the Fein.
rrmccabe wrote:
4 minutes ago, rrmccabe said:Yes. I think there are several company’s out that have them. I just liked the Fein.
Fein is the top dog, Ive heard nothing but great things about it
I am also amazed how well the circular saw works.
Defies logic to see it work. You would think it would grab. But its just like cutting wood. Almost easier.
rrmccabe wrote:
3 minutes ago, rrmccabe said:I am also amazed how well the circular saw works.
Defies logic to see it work. You would think it would grab. But its just like cutting wood. Almost easier.
So cool.
I experimented with Diablo metal cutting blade on my saw, it went well, but i would much rather a dedicated metal saw, but really, because I know how much safer a bandsaw is, would rather go that route.
It threw some sparks, guess that’s expected
Anyways, here’s the experiment
..
Since we bought a dw872 14″ cold cut chop saw about 8 years ago the band saw collects dust in the corner. Depending on your needs I would at least take a look at one. It gives a much faster cleaner cut than a band saw. Cut capacity is one area the band saw might beat it but I would say anything up to 4″ material isn’t a problem. But you can look up the exact specs. The other thing is blades are pretty spendy like $100 a blade but in our shop where they’re used pretty heavily we still only go through a couple a year. We also use milwaukee steel circular saws regularly and its truly amazing how both these saws cut through steel with such ease. One difference between your fuel and circ saw that’s designed for steel is that it has a much better guard that helps with the shrapnel.
Now if dewalt would just come out with a flexvolt in either variation, preferably a 8″ steel circ saw though.
Damnit Rich! Now I want them both ?
My only regret is I wished I had bought the smaller circular saw.
They also have a 7 1/4″ version and I bought the 9″. Its a big saw and I dont think I will ever used the capacity. I would prefer something lighter.
Its nice to cut steel plate with it and saves messing with torch.
One of the things on my to-do list is turning it onto a track saw.
Unless you need it right away, save up and get a better one with coolant tank. I have used both and a half ass saw (or any other tool) is no fun.
Just went out and chopped off a piece of square tubing.
As you can see, the cut is nice and would take minimal hand filing to make it perfect. Also square in both directions.
The band saw is collecting dust 🙂
I’ve been really wanting to try my hand at mixed media with projects and I have never welded. This is pretty cool. Now I just have to learn how to weld, get a saw like the Fein and some form of a welder!
I was doing metal work long before I cut a piece of wood. I was fortunate enough to have a Dad that was quite a craftsman and learned how to weld by the age of 10 using a stick welder. Later progressed to MIG and then TIG after taking a job at a local potato chip plant.
I still have MIG but rarely use it now. The TIG is the hot setup for an attached shop as its smoke/spark free for the most part. But also has the steepest learning curve and highest cost.
rrmccabe wrote:
On 2/13/2017 at 8:42 AM, rrmccabe said:I have a Jet that I bought about 6 years ago and it does a great job. However I bought a Fein metal cutting saw a few months ago and the band-saw has not been plugged in since. Far superior cut on the Fein.
I plan to keep the band-saw in the corner for a while in case I figure out something I cant cut on the Fein as far as capacity but I might end up getting rid of it.
Is the the saw your talking about or something else? https://feintools-online.com/mccs14-metal-cutting-chop-saw-14-120v.html
That’s it.