Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Makita). This thread is read-only.
Recently I replaced the power cord on my old 6404 drill using a Makita OEM replacement. The original cord had tinned ends that stab-wired into the trigger switch. I disassembled the switch to get the stab-wired connections out, put it back together (after three tries), and stripped/tinned the ends of the new cord to connect it the same way.
Seems to work fine, but was that how I was supposed to do it? Or is there some better way that doesn’t involve taking the switch apart?
BTW I am astonished that this almost quarter-century-old drill is still plugging along. It’s pretty beat up cosmetically by now but it runs just like new.
dwasifar wrote:
4 hours ago, dwasifar said:Recently I replaced the power cord on my old 6404 drill using a Makita OEM replacement. The original cord had tinned ends that stab-wired into the trigger switch. I disassembled the switch to get the stab-wired connections out, put it back together (after three tries), and stripped/tinned the ends of the new cord to connect it the same way.
Seems to work fine, but was that how I was supposed to do it? Or is there some better way that doesn’t involve taking the switch apart?
BTW I am astonished that this almost quarter-century-old drill is still plugging along. It’s pretty beat up cosmetically by now but it runs just like new.
Sounds like a makita still runnin strong well normaly you dont take the switch apart there will either be a screw for each wire or one where u press something in to get it out and to do a new one u push it in and it locks could u post a picture of the switch and also the drill would love to see it 😉
It’s extremely rare, but not unheard of to have stab connections without a release. Typically there’s a nearby slot for a screwdriver to relieve pressure on the connector. Opening it to release the wires is fine if it’s possible. You’re pretty lucky there because most stab connections have snap together enclosures that you can’t open without breaking.
jeffmcmillan wrote:
12 hours ago, jeffmcmillan said:It’s extremely rare, but not unheard of to have stab connections without a release. Typically there’s a nearby slot for a screwdriver to relieve pressure on the connector. Opening it to release the wires is fine if it’s possible. You’re pretty lucky there because most stab connections have snap together enclosures that you can’t open without breaking.
CATERPILLAR wrote:
12 hours ago, CATERPILLAR said:Sounds like a makita still runnin strong well normaly you dont take the switch apart there will either be a screw for each wire or one where u press something in to get it out and to do a new one u push it in and it locks could u post a picture of the switch and also the drill would love to see it 😉
Just for you, I opened it up to take some pictures.
Here’s the switch.
Prying up that tab on the lower edge allows you to slide the works out of the housing. At that point, if you’re not careful, everything comes apart and you have to piece it back together.
Typically I expect stab wiring to have a release, as both of you guys mentioned, but there’s nothing on the bottom for that:
Eventually I got it back together right, but it made me wonder if I was intended to just splice the new cord on with solder and heat-shrink tubing instead.
Here are the exterior views, for Caterpillar:
Manufacture date 93.01. Coming up on its 24th birthday.
New cord on old drill. The key keeper lost its grip a long time ago, so I improvised a replacement with zip ties.
dwasifar wrote:
5 hours ago, dwasifar said:
Just for you, I opened it up to take some pictures.
Here’s the switch.
Prying up that tab on the lower edge allows you to slide the works out of the housing. At that point, if you’re not careful, everything comes apart and you have to piece it back together.
Typically I expect stab wiring to have a release, as both of you guys mentioned, but there’s nothing on the bottom for that:
Eventually I got it back together right, but it made me wonder if I was intended to just splice the new cord on with solder and heat-shrink tubing instead.
Here are the exterior views, for Caterpillar:
Manufacture date 93.01. Coming up on its 24th birthday.
New cord on old drill. The key keeper lost its grip a long time ago, so I improvised a replacement with zip ties.
Nice tool man love it thanks for taking pictures . That switch is the release king u push a pick or a like a needle up by the wire and pull the wire out and just do the same to put in well hope it has a happy birthday 🙂
Well, the switch failed on me the other day, probably the result of being taken apart and put back together. So now I have a decision to make. I already put $17 into replacing the power cord. Now it’ll be $22 to replace the switch. If I knew going in that I was going to be putting $39 in parts & shipping into this drill when a new one can be had for $74, I probably would not have done it. What say you? Is a switch replacement good money after bad? The drill is strong, it’s just that the switch is flaky.
dwasifar wrote:
31 minutes ago, dwasifar said:Well, the switch failed on me the other day, probably the result of being taken apart and put back together. So now I have a decision to make. I already put $17 into replacing the power cord. Now it’ll be $22 to replace the switch. If I knew going in that I was going to be putting $39 in parts & shipping into this drill when a new one can be had for $74, I probably would not have done it. What say you? Is a switch replacement good money after bad? The drill is strong, it’s just that the switch is flaky.
I bought an old “Festo” jigsaw. It’s old, I have a new knew one but I bought cause it’s old. In have to convert it over from U.K. standard to ours and it’s going to cost some coin but it’s a cool tool. My Dad gave me his old Craftsman circular saw. That too is old and needed a new cord and some work. I don’t need it but it’s cool. Anyways, that Makita is pretty cool. Sometimes the work in restoring an old tool like this is worth it just to have an d tool that you brought back to life.
Just saying 🙂
p
dwasifar wrote:
2 hours ago, dwasifar said:Well, the switch failed on me the other day, probably the result of being taken apart and put back together. So now I have a decision to make. I already put $17 into replacing the power cord. Now it’ll be $22 to replace the switch. If I knew going in that I was going to be putting $39 in parts & shipping into this drill when a new one can be had for $74, I probably would not have done it. What say you? Is a switch replacement good money after bad? The drill is strong, it’s just that the switch is flaky.
Yes its worth it ?
ChrisK wrote:
I bought an old “Festo” jigsaw. It’s old, I have a new knew one but I bought cause it’s old. In have to convert it over from U.K. standard to ours and it’s going to cost some coin but it’s a cool tool. My Dad gave me his old Craftsman circular saw. That too is old and needed a new cord and some work. I don’t need it but it’s cool. Anyways, that Makita is pretty cool. Sometimes the work in restoring an old tool like this is worth it just to have an d tool that you brought back to life.
Just saying [emoji4]
p
Those Festo saws are really pretty sweet
Jimbo
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Would be nice to see removable cords like Hilti has. Makes replacing them a lot easier. I don’t know if the switch is worth fixing.
Jronman wrote:
4 hours ago, Jronman said:Would be nice to see removable cords like Hilti has. Makes replacing them a lot easier. I don’t know if the switch is worth fixing.
quite a few milwaukee tools have removable cords, my super sawzall does
JimboS1ice wrote:
13 hours ago, JimboS1ice said:quite a few milwaukee tools have removable cords, my super sawzall does
oh nice
Jronman wrote:
20 hours ago, Jronman said:Would be nice to see removable cords like Hilti has. Makes replacing them a lot easier. I don’t know if the switch is worth fixing.
I did eventually fix the switch. I was considering just replacing the drill, and then someone on another thread suggested buying a 1/2″ drill instead, and fixing this one. I thought that was good idea so that’s what I did.
dwasifar wrote:
3 minutes ago, dwasifar said:
I did eventually fix the switch. I was considering just replacing the drill, and then someone on another thread suggested buying a 1/2″ drill instead, and fixing this one. I thought that was good idea so that’s what I did.
nice. How’s the new switch working out?
Jronman wrote:
1 minute ago, Jronman said:nice. How’s the new switch working out?
It’s fine. Drop-in replacement, looks and feels the same as the old one except it works. I haven’t had any occasion to use this drill in production since I fixed the switch, though.
dwasifar wrote:
On 2017-01-17 at 6:42 PM, dwasifar said:Well, the switch failed on me the other day, probably the result of being taken apart and put back together. So now I have a decision to make. I already put $17 into replacing the power cord. Now it’ll be $22 to replace the switch. If I knew going in that I was going to be putting $39 in parts & shipping into this drill when a new one can be had for $74, I probably would not have done it. What say you? Is a switch replacement good money after bad? The drill is strong, it’s just that the switch is flaky.
Yes! You need switch 🙂 Just check carbon brushes and ball bearings 🙂 Old tools is worth of repairing 🙂