Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Power Tools). This thread is read-only.
I am currently in a dilemma as to what table saw to purchase. As up to this point I’ve gotten away using various tools to get by but I am now coming to see their limitations. Only recently have I gotten more interested in wood working and am now looking to purchase my first table saw. I am in the process of building a 4’x6′ work bench that will hold my cnc on top and will have cabinets below on one half with a large pull out drawer on the other for my miter saw and other large tools.
Currently I rent the house i live in with my girlfriend and am working in my 2 car garage that is quickly filling up with tools and used also for storage (pretty well organized)haha. I am also limited on space do to the one work bench and depending on which saw I get might be limited for another smaller workbench/ outfeed/router station. I am currently looking at the dewalt 7491rs, Bosch 4100-09, rigid 4512, and delta 36-725. They are all about the same price, each has their faults, so far leaning towards the dewalt.
I plan on using it to make the storage on the workbench, some night stands, various other wood projects and cutting acrylic sheets. If I could get away with a cheaper table saw that would be great ,but I’m afraid might be limited and regret it. I’m a little more concerned with the rigid and delta do to size and if they would be so much more noticeable in quality in cuts than the other two to warrant losing the mobility and taking more space when not using. I should also state I am limited to 120v models. Any input would be appreciated, and I have gone through the search but many of the threads are older and not quite pertain to the same.
I have a r4512 don’t know if I got lucky but the saw is flawless, I like it as unlike the DeWalt it is belt drive and has a cast top quieter and hardly any vibration if possible I would sacrifice the space
The rack and pinion fence on the DeWALT is a really nice fence. It also has the highest rpm of all the options. I heard Bosch makes good jobsite saw. I’m sure the Ridgid is good. I heard they make very accurate saws. I don’t know much about the Delta. It does look nice though. I would suggest the flexvolt so you could use the saw in your driveway but you could easily just hook and extension cord to your saw. The Bosch has the least rip capacity and the Delta has the most. I’m sure any saw you are interested in will do a good job for what you need the saw for. I personally was not impressed with the fence lever on the Bosch from when I was looking at one at my local Menards, This is unrelated to saws but does your work table have wheels? Could be an option for extra flexibility in your shop because you could move it around for your different needs.
It really depends on what you want to do with it, when it comes to table saws they are not created equal. Some have selling points for portability and others that are solid stationary units. If it is accuracy you are after a job site table saw is not going to be your best bet. If you are pushing wood that is almost as expensive as the saw you will want confidence your cuts will be true.
table saw’s are one of those tools that you get what you pay for, you can’t make apple pie with a toaster you can try but it will be messy. The Hybrid table saw’s are an in between solution are give you good results without needing a crane to install them the Ridgid and Delta hybrids come with built in movable bases if the saw needs to be moved with a sub $1000 budget
I’ll agree with previous comments, if you are looking for cabinet building I’d increase your budget, but with that said, When I was looking to buy, I picked the 7491rs as it had the largest capacity and the portability is great. If I had to I bet I could build cabinets if need be, end of the day I would love to have a full woodshop with a cabinet saw but I don’t have the room, so I’ve been all about portability and storage, being able to store this vertical has been great, so much so I bought the rolling stand for my 780.
I will say that this saw hasn’t disappointed me, I have needed to do several rip cuts on 2×4’s and such and it’s been super smooth and the fence stays in place and easy to use. The only issue I had with mine was I had to tighten the fence lock and it moved on me one, but since tightening it no movement. When setup it’s very stable and I don’t need to find a bench to attach it to or using it 2ft off the ground. The collection system is actually fantastic, I hooked up my shopvac in my basement and had zero clean up after using it. I am not sure of the other saws but I like the on/off switch on the 7491rs as it’s a semi smart switch and the paddle off is nice no hunting for the button.
Overall I feel this is accurate enough for what I need and would not hesitate to build furniture with it, but knowing a saws limitation and faults are key, get the saw that fits into your needs the best as I don’t think you can go wrong with any of your choices.
just an FYI I am no expert and haven’t done any finishing work with this but have plans for some small things as I even bought the dado kit for it.
I have the DeWalt with out the stand. It is used for construction type applications and for woodworking. I have never had a cabinet saw so I can’t compare it to that but for what I use it for, it is great. The fence alone is worth the money. I have heard good stuff about the Rigid. I have actually debated buying one myself. If you don’t need to move it around (as in to a jobsite) then I wouldn’t get a jobsite saw (DeWalt or Bosch on your list). I have heard some bad reveiws about the Delta saw but I cannot speak for it. I am in a similar situation as you, I am using about 1/2 of a two car garage and for the limited space my dewalt works great for me. Just remember to swap out the blade on the saw for a higher tooth count when doing any woodworking so you get a nice, splinter free cut.
I have the Dewalt 744 (now discontinued) and it’s been as good as one could ever ask for. I love Dewalt’s Rack & Pinion system as well.
If I were buying a new saw today it would probably be the DWE7491. A portable suits my needs just fine, takes up less space, and the 38-1/2 rip is plenty.
If my 744 ever dies, that will be my first look
Those with jobsite saws have you tried building cabinets or furniture with them? I am concerned with space hence why I’m leaning towards the slightly more compact option. My work bench I’m work on now is on casters and have foot locks to keep motion from the cnc down.
I’ve built a little bit of everything with mine. I built a lot of things and while I’d love to have a cabinet saw, there just isn’t enough benefit for me to justify the extra space it would consume. It’s like deciding between a gas truck and a diesel truck, it really depends on what you want to do with it.
Here is a great article that explains the difference better than I can.
comp56 wrote:
3 hours ago, comp56 said:you can’t make apple pie with a toaster
Challenge accepted. Now to buy a toaster.
Until you hit cabinet saws the Dewalt fence beats everything.
jeffmcmillan wrote:
4 minutes ago, jeffmcmillan said:Challenge accepted. Now to buy a toaster.
Until you hit cabinet saws the Dewalt fence beats everything.
well I wouldn’t go that far, after some tinkering I managed to beef up / line up my 2 part fence rails on the R4512 and it runs tighter than a bull’s arse at fly time…..it is bang on biggest problem I have with contractor saw’s are they are direct drive kinda like having a circular saw sticking thru a table bed…..
I bought a dewalt portable table saw back in 2001 or so. I was happy with it and used it for two home renovations. Two years ago I bought a Jet 3 HP cabinet saw. I thought I would keep the dewalt as well, but after using the Jet. I put the dewalt on craigslist. There is just no comparison between a job site saw and a real cabinet saw with a good fence.
At work we have all saw about 8 saw stops all set up with 8ft in-feed and out-feed tables. So its a pleasure to to just throw boards up on the tables and start cutting.
What type of wood would you be cutting the most? Why not go with a track saw?
Well I opted for the dewalt for a few reasons. Now for two questions any help/input is appreciated. One may sound stupid but as this is my first table saw, does it matter which side you put your material in relation to the blade to the right or left? Do you want the piece your ripping against the fence or the strip you’re ripping against the fence? Also I plan on replacing the original blade with a freud any suggestions on which blade? I was looking at the 40t premium fusion general purpose is there any other that you all suggest? The plan is to buy more specialized blades when I can.
Congrats on your saw. In your situation I think you made a great choice.
The scale on the front will indicate the measurement between the fence and the inside of the blade. If you want to rip a piece 5″ wide, you simply set it to 5″ and the piece that runs between the blade and the fence will come out 5″. Dewalt table saws are typically very accurate.
As far as blades go, I use the Diablo 40T. It’s a very good all around blade and gives a good clean cut without compromising speed. Anything with a higher tooth count will slow the cut speed. The 40T will cut fine enough that you shouldn’t ever need more than a quick hit with a sander to get it very smooth. Here’s a good article about blades:
http://m.woodcraft.com/articles/691/choosing-the-right-table-saw-blades.aspx
Like anything else, practice makes perfect. Congrats and good luck!
regardless of what your cutting get into the habit of not standing directly in line of the blade, try to stand on one side or the other.
NEVER cut something your uncomfortable cutting if you don’t think it is right it’s probably isn’t.
NEVER cut short from wide with rip fence, use miter fence instead
always try to keep blade height just slightly higher than what you are cutting, the less blade height the safer it is.
Conductor562 wrote:
29 minutes ago, Conductor562 said:Congrats on your saw. In your situation I think you made a great choice.
The scale on the front will indicate the measurement between the fence and the inside of the blade. If you want to rip a piece 5″ wide, you simply set it to 5″ and the piece that runs between the blade and the fence will come out 5″. Dewalt table saws are typically very accurate.
As far as blades go, I use the Diablo 40T. It’s a very good all around blade and gives a good clean cut without compromising speed. Anything with a higher tooth count will slow the cut speed. The 40T will cut fine enough that you shouldn’t ever need more than a quick hit with a sander to get it very smooth. Here’s a good article about blades:
http://m.woodcraft.com/articles/691/choosing-the-right-table-saw-blades.aspx
Like anything else, practice makes perfect. Congrats and good luck!
Thanks, for a first I’m sure I’ll like it and if I go further into wood working down the road I’ll upgrade. Is the 40t Diablo good enough for making cabinets for the most part? Needing to build my shelves for my work bench which I will start once I finish repairing and painting the girlfriends dresser that is taking up a ton of room haha.
The 40T all purpose blade or the 50T combination blade will cut plywood with very little tearing or splintering if you’re careful. If you want absolutely fantastic cuts in ply, you could step up to an 80T blade, but for a work bench I wouldn’t be concerned about the cut quality of the 40 or 50T
Conductor562 wrote:
9 minutes ago, Conductor562 said:The 40T all purpose blade or the 50T combination blade will cut plywood with very little tearing or splintering if you’re careful. If you want absolutely fantastic cuts in ply, you could step up to an 80T blade, but for a work bench I wouldn’t be concerned about the cut quality of the 40 or 50T
How’s about for ripping a 2×4? Would either one of those be better or worse. Thanks again for the help, being a novice I’ve usually just used a straight edge clamp and circular saw so this is all new territory.
DavidH6531 wrote:
7 minutes ago, DavidH6531 said:How’s about for ripping a 2×4? Would either one of those be better or worse. Thanks again for the help, being a novice I’ve usually just used a straight edge clamp and circular saw so this is all new territory.
40 tooth will work great!
For 1x and 2x the 40T All Purpose or 50T Combination will work great. I don’t really do any extremely fine finish work, but I use the 40T for everything. Lueon board is the only thing I can think of that I encounter that I would feel enough of a benefit to an 80T to warrant changing the blade.
Oh and you’ll ldefinitely be happy with the DeWalt. I use it and the fence alone makes the saw worth getting IMHO. First thing I did was swap out the stock blade. If you want to get into cabinets you may want a finer blade such as this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-60-Tooth-Fine-Finish-Saw-Blade-D1060X/100033809
but for general woodworking a 40 tooth will be fine.
This is the 40 tooth:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-General-Purpose-Saw-Blade-D1040X/100055325
DaveJr. wrote:
9 minutes ago, DaveJr. said:Oh and you’ll ldefinitely be happy with the DeWalt. I use it and the fence alone makes the saw worth getting IMHO. First thing I did was swap out the stock blade. If you want to get into cabinets you may want a finer blade such as this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-60-Tooth-Fine-Finish-Saw-Blade-D1060X/100033809
but for general woodworking a 40 tooth will be fine.
This is the 40 tooth:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-10-in-x-40-Tooth-General-Purpose-Saw-Blade-D1040X/10005532t10005532
Thanks I’m at home depot right now looking at the two. Debating on picking up the 60t for the fact might use mdf that I have laying in in my garage for the base on the workbench as I need to use it. Or is that a bad idea?
If you got the saw for woodworking get the 60 tooth. If you will use it for construction applications as well, get the 40 tooth. Both will work for woodworking but the 60 is better.
I used to worry about TPI on my table saw. Through my extensive testing buy two combination blades. When the first gets dirty, switch to the clean one and rinse, repeat. Clean cuts for general wood working and none of the worries.
what blade came with the saw? if it came with a 40t
get a 60T if it came with a 60T get a 40T either way any blade will cut it’s just how nice a finish you need/want. and cutting MDF wear a mask that stuff is nasty…..
comp56 wrote:
Just now, comp56 said:what blade came with the saw? if it came with a 40t
get a 60T if it came with a 60T get a 40T either way any blade will cut it’s just how nice a finish you need/want. and cutting MDF wear a mask that stuff is nasty…..
I think they come with the 24 tooth blade
comp56 wrote:
1 minute ago, comp56 said:what blade came with the saw? if it came with a 40t
get a 60T if it came with a 60T get a 40T either way any blade will cut it’s just how nice a finish you need/want. and cutting MDF wear a mask that stuff is nasty…
True, yeah I used it for my bench top sealed it and painted to prevent warping from moisture. Just not sure if it’s suitable for the base of the shelf/cabinets or if I should just fork out for 3/4″ ply
I’d go with 3/4″ ply for sure
Conductor562 wrote:
Just now, Conductor562 said:I’d go with 3/4″ ply for sure
+1 for 3/4″
+2 for plywood
Haha alright dang it have to fork out some more and have to find new project for the mdf I have. I ended up getting a 40t and 60t haha. Figure for the 2×4 rips and what not I’ll use the 40t with standard insert and use 60t with zero clearance insert. Wish ply wasn’t so expensive at the big box stores or had a good lumber yard around. Being a firefighter I error on safety so picked up a featherpro featherboard and a grriper.
DavidH6531 wrote:
1 hour ago, DavidH6531 said:Haha alright dang it have to fork out some more and have to find new project for the mdf I have. I ended up getting a 40t and 60t haha. Figure for the 2×4 rips and what not I’ll use the 40t with standard insert and use 60t with zero clearance insert. Wish ply wasn’t so expensive at the big box stores or had a good lumber yard around. Being a firefighter I error on safety so picked up a featherpro featherboard and a grriper.
Well you can’t go wrong with any of that!
well seems like your all set, remember try and keep same amount of thumbs and fingers before and after each job on your new beast……good luck with your projects….
Congrats on the DeWalt Table Saw.
It might be a good idea to find someone that you know to help you with the operation of a table saw.
They can give you tips and hints that will go a long way. But of course, I’m sure there are tons of YouTube vids to watch as well.
Tips and Mistakes I’ve made:
1. Don’t cut foam on a table saw. The first thing I ever cut on a table saw was a piece of Styrofoam, it was also the very first time I experienced kick-back. Styrofoam tends to weeble wobble through the cut, causing it to catch on the back of the blade and sending it flying towards your face. I was young and dumb, and thought that Styrofoam would be good practice, i was very wrong.
2. Don’t push the cut off side of the material your cutting. The reasoning is that you do not want to pinch the blade. Kinda hard for me to explain.
3. I think someone already mentioned that you should also not stand directly in the path of the blade as well.
Thank you all for the help and info and I’ll do my best to keep my fingers haha. I’ll let you know how it all goes and post up pics of the workbench when I get it together.
DavidH6531 wrote:
4 minutes ago, DavidH6531 said:Thank you all for the help and info and I’ll do my best to keep my fingers haha. I’ll let you know how it all goes and post up pics of the workbench when I get it together.
Just remember that a workbench can NEVER be too solid!
DaveJr. wrote:
17 minutes ago, DaveJr. said:
Just remember that a workbench can NEVER be too solid!
Yeah this one is gonna be pretty solid but it’s mainly for you cnc machine. One half under the top will have cabinets and the other side will have one or two large pull out drawers for tools such as my compund miter saw, planer, etc…
Your MDF would make a great table top, especially covered with some laminate, just make sure you have good support under it or you will loose that perfect flatness it has.
As far as using your feather board always use it on the board before it is cut by the blade. If you try to use it after the blade cuts the wood it will pinch and then your in unsafe territory. Always run your guard or riving knife with your saw to help prevent pinching after the cut. The Gripper is great for wider cuts, but I prefer a narrow taller push stick like the Kreg for pushing narrow cuts, because you want to be pushing on the board between the blade and the fence. If you are pushing on the outside of the board opposite the fence you are in a potential twisting and kickback situation.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KMA1000-MP-Push-Stick/dp/B00188D18Q
I never trust feather boards on a table saw, unless they are use putting downward force from fence
MDF also make for a good replaceable top plate for a work bench provided it is on a solid bench