Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Dewalt). This thread is read-only.
No seriously, I am trying to understand what trade the drill is marketed towards.
Plumbers, electricians, drywall guys for mixing mud?
Keep in mind I only use carbide tip style hole saws, self feed bits of the size I need have so many drawbacks, it’s pointless to use them.
At first i thought it would suit plumbers, such as myself. But I realize I wouldn’t have a use for it. The body wouldn’t allow the drill in some areas I knew I’ve run into before with tight spaces. It also weighs more than I would feel useful drilling holes all day in different positions.
Additionally, I need more precision than just all out drilling blindly in a piece of wood you’re going full bore just to show how fast it is.
The drill I use is my m18 fuel for the usual plumbing rough in. The only other drill I can think that I would benefit from is one such as the cordless hole hawg, where the right angle head with the slim long profile will fit in places just as well as a regular drill. However, I have done house after house for rough in plumbing using just my fuel drill and big hawg hole saws without problem. I would seriously consider getting the hole hawg because it’s got the right angle head and a lighter weight design. If you’re already invested in the dewalt line, you put a carbide tip hole saw in a dcd995/6 drill and you could comfortably plumbing rough out a whole house.
It actually looks useful for electricians though, as they use long auger bits, and stay outside the joist and studs pockets and angle the bit in and don’t worry about precision, since the wire is flexible and can go up or downhill. You can just poke the stud and pull the trigger in the general location you need to run the wire.
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OK, @77Ford what sort of deal did you get yours for? Also what do you see yourself using it for?
So if there is anything I’ve missed, I love a good informative discussion, tell me I’m wrong.
Also they must have been impressed by the Milwaukee corded hole hawg design to copy it hehehe .. This is the guy I used to use before I found the big hawg hole saws, always hated it:
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Yeah in a way you kinda answered your own question its for the Plumbers, electricians, drywall guys for mixing mud market.
I was going to buy a kitchen aid but maybe I’ll get this instead, when I’m done roughing out some plumbing I can drop a paddle in and mix some cake batter, or is that dry wall mud, shit that kid isn’t going to like his birthday cake…
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Haha Jimbo..
There are a lot of uses for this when building decks too I see, i asked a guy on IG what his uses are:
“ I build decks and there are always random large holes I need to make in various materials. I use the Bosch daredevil auger bits for long holes. I’m about to drill though 7 inches of pressure treated lumber to put a 1/2 galvanized bolt through it all for a strong mechanical connection. I also use the 2 9/16 self feed bit for venting through blocks on the of houses. I do a lot of remodeling work there are always uses for big drills. ”
it was a coincidence he put a picture up right when I was posting this thread:
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Yeah the market seems to be plumbers mainly, and electrical to a smaller degree. I’ve seen lots of hole hawgs and super hawgs on sites, and the old corded hole hawgs as well like you posted. I honestly think you’re ahead of the curve/forward thinking using more efficient accessories in a nice standard drill knarlycarl. Most companies would rather sell you both those accessories and a $400 CAD drill.
Not many people think through what tools they need as well as you knarlycarl.
jeffmcmillan wrote:
41 minutes ago, jeffmcmillan said:Not many people think through what tools they need as well as you knarlycarl.
Lol I tend to do that sometimes!
Here’s an example of how impressive but impractical the drill(really the bit itself) is, 4″ self feed bit:
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This requires a lot of counter force on the drill as you see, but i think this drill would work better with a carbide tip hole saw (CTHS shall we say?). The main problem I have with this is just the bit really in this example.
I would not want to drill this all day, and not even after a few holes ha.
Need a carbide hole saw instead!
What happens when you bottom out on a hole saw? I grab my hammer and use the claw to pry the plug until it snaps off from the rest of the wood and pull it out and keep going! I’ve done this many enough times to know I don’t want to use a self feed bit for that. I let the CTHS do the work for me, with little counter force required to hold onto the drill.
Ridiculous power in the drill tho, hold onto it for dear life!!!
Also of note is the e-clutch only works *most* of the time. You still need to work safely (no brainer, but I know some guys like to use gimmicks to replace common sense) and the S&J drill will still knock the teeth out of your head in 10% of those hairy situations lol.
I have no doubt timber workers can find a use for it. These are the guys who have chainsaw discs on their angle grinders we’re talking about lol
Thats really disappointing about the clutch. These tools really need acceleration sensing like bosch drills. Seems like they have a patent though since its in half their tools and no one elses.
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This solidifies my thinking that the fkexvolt stud drill wouldn’t work for me. He has both brands of these drills and has good input on his tool usage
Yeah that makes sense. Narrower the better
Speak of the devil
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I like it! No tight areas to worry about, you can hold it comfortably in standing position all day and not get fatigued
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I wasn’t even looking to get this but I do want a cordless bucket drill…looks the buisness.
Do I really need a 60V volt drill when a decade old budget level XRP drill can run a 4″ spiral mixer in concrete on speed 2 or 6″ spiral mixer on speed 1?
I could drive to work with a horse and buggy. Just because you can doesn’t mean you should, but carry on. =-)
jeffmcmillan wrote:
17 hours ago, jeffmcmillan said:Do I really need a 60V volt drill when a decade old budget level XRP drill can run a 4″ spiral mixer in concrete on speed 2 or 6″ spiral mixer on speed 1?
Same could be said about a car, computer, tv or 90% of any consumer product really.
Great review. Felt the number of holes was a poor comparison considering the difference in AH but I digress, looks impressive.
Hugh Jass wrote:
2 hours ago, Hugh Jass said:Great review. Felt the number of holes was a poor comparison considering the difference in AH but I digress, looks impressive.
I really want to see how it would do in a remodel situation where the studs are the old hard native oak lumber, that’s some tough stuff to drill through
KnarlyCarl wrote:
51 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:I really want to see how it would do in a remodel situation where the studs are the old hard native oak lumber, that’s some tough stuff to drill through
Given that thing has the power to run giant hole saws and 4in self feeds, I’d say it’s got plenty of torque for any lumber for normal size bits as shown in that video.
I always think of Treehouse Masters whenever I see a stud drill.
The Nelson Treehouse and Supply crew on Animal Planet’s Treehouse Masters use a corded one in every episode to install TABs (Treehouse Attachment Bolt).
I’m sure treehouse builders would like a cordless version since many treehouse constructions are in remote locations far from any outlet.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Treehouse_attachment_bolt
http://treehouses.com/joomla/index.php/construction/garnier-limb
http://treehouses.com/joomla/index.php/construction/garnier-limb-parts
https://store.beinatree.com/collections/treehouse-hardware
http://www.treehousesupplies.com/Treehouse_Bolts_s/41.htm
DeWalt 60V MAX Stud and Joist 1/2″ Drill Review and Demonstration
DeWalt 60V MAX Drill vs Milwaukee Hole Hawg with 9.0ah Battery Epic Battle
Eugh. Sparky channel. Sat through that whole obnoxious video to hear what I already knew: the two drills fit different niches.
the flexvolt isnt much wider than the hole hawg. If you rotates the top handle to the front it would be almost as compact as the hole hawg. Just a couple inches wider.
I’m sure the extra weight is more noticeable than the extra bulk.
I wonder if a more compact version is in the works to compete more with the hole hawg and not the super hawg. The stud and joist drill is a decent tool, but it is not for everyone. I wonder if the average guy would replace his corded drill for a flexvolt drill. I see a lot of guys who have a corded drill for the occasional mud, grout, cement, or paint mixing. Don’t know if the extra costs would be worth it to them to cut the cord. Maybe to someone who already is invested into flexvolt but Im not sure about anyone else.
Bremon wrote:
17 hours ago, Bremon said:Eugh. Sparky channel. Sat through that whole obnoxious video to hear what I already knew: the two drills fit different niches.
Ehh yeah agreed. sorry @PH1 I guess I’ll decline watching them, I saw them floating around the youtube playlists and his videos leave a bit to be desired.
So that’s a typical old way of drilling holes for rough in plumbing with that flexvolt drill. Using self feed “chipper” bits as we call them. I have since abandoned those self feed bits in favor of carbide tip hole saws or Milwaukee BigHawg hole saws (which use 3 hardened steel teeth instead of carbide) I can use a lower power drill like a regular hammer drill or the smaller HoleHawg. I did this so I didn’t need a big power drill like he’s using. No wonder he’s burning through drills. Like I always say, find an easier way to drill with less power, not a harder way that requires more power (more control, more fighting, more expended energy etc)
Plus you don’t have to dig the plugs out of the hole saws like he’s doing with the conventional bimetal ones, they tend to come right out with little coaxing.
2448jman wrote:
13 hours ago, 2448jman said:the flexvolt isnt much wider than the hole hawg. If you rotates the top handle to the front it would be almost as compact as the hole hawg. Just a couple inches wider.
Couple inches wider! That’s a lot! I use my regular cordless drill with hole saws and it’s narrow enough to really get in some tricky spots, couple inches wider is a real deal killer
KnarlyCarl wrote:
On 10/28/2016 at 3:47 AM, KnarlyCarl said:Couple inches wider! That’s a lot! I use my regular cordless drill with hole saws and it’s narrow enough to really get in some tricky spots, couple inches wider is a real deal killer
If you use Spyder hole saws, the plugs are even easier to remove, with their Rapid Core Eject feature. Aviable as both TCT (Tungsten Carbide-Tipped), Bi-Metal HSS, and HSS+. Their Rapid Core Eject feature also makes it much easier to remove plugs in their bi-metal versions compared to regular bi-metal hole saws. http://www.spyderproducts.com/toolpages/spyder-hole-saw/
They look identical to the Australian Sutton Tools tungsten carbide tipped hole saws except for the color:
Sutton product website: http://www.sutton.com.au/product-category/trade-diy/trade-holesaws/trade-holesaws-tct/
The Italian CMT Orange Tools and Dutch ProFit Holesaws also has a very similar system. The CMT and ProFit looks identical except for the color:
http://www.cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=HS~~1
Also offering bore enlargement by piggy-backing two different sized cups:
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http://www.profitholesaw.com/9-profit-hole-saws-multi-purpose
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The CMT and ProFit cups looks identical to Sutton Tools and Spyder Products, so it’s not unlikely they’re all made by the same manufacturer. But the CMT and ProFit quick release looks a bit different than Spyder Products and Sutton Tools.
Here’s a very nice in-depth review of the Spyder tungsten carbide-tipped hole saws by locksmith Wayne Winton (https://wayneslockshop.com). He also has reviews of other carbide tipped hole saws like Bosch.
He also has this Ultimate Guide To Hole Saw Bits For Drilling Wood, Steel, Stainless Steel, Stone, Masonry,Concrete:
I don’t know about mixing concrete and mud with this thing. Most drills I’ve seen for that use end up looking like those gray painted tools manufactures use for competitive comparisons. It’s too nice a drill for messing it up like that 😛
Here’s a unique use for this:
Recessing light boxes into solid beams.
But I still would go for my carbide hole saws first…
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Ten years ago, Relton was my go to for carbide tipped hole saws. Nothing else could beat them for speed and longevity in punching grommet holes through countertops of most material types at that time. They are still active in production today with a wide variety of designs for various material type cuts. They never were an inexpensive choice, but I still have the ones I purchased originally and will be able to have them resharpened if ever needed.
JMG wrote:
7 minutes ago, JMG said:Ten years ago, Relton was my go to for carbide tipped hole saws. Nothing else could beat them for speed and longevity in punching grommet holes through countertops of most material types at that time. They are still active in production today with a wide variety of designs for various material type cuts. They never were an inexpensive choice, but I still have the ones I purchased originally and will be able to have them resharpened if ever needed.
Wow you’re not kidding!!
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KnarlyCarl wrote:
9 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:Wow you’re not kidding!!
They were the Cadillac Mac Daddy…
KnarlyCarl wrote:
9 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:Here’s a unique use for this:
Recessing light boxes into solid beams.
But I still would go for my carbide hole saws first…
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If the eclutch is as unreliable as people say thats just asking for trouble.
jeffmcmillan wrote:
8 minutes ago, jeffmcmillan said:If the eclutch is as unreliable as people say thats just asking for trouble.
Clutch issues aside, what bothers me about this picture is that the man is using a heavy, high torque tool, overhead, while balancing on what looks to be an eight foot tall step ladder. We kept an aluminum rolling scaffold around for this type of work. You could at least spread your feet apart and improve your chances on one of those.
Yeah, that’s definitely one way to end up on your ass with a broken nose.
Yea you wouldn’t catch me on that situation, safety or not all it take is a little off balance and you’ll tip the ladder
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As in semi-cordless
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HD carpentry on IG is doing weigh ins for FlexVolt tools with 9.0 vs Fuel tools with 9.0. I didn’t realize the Super Hawg was over a pound heavier than DeBeast, and that’s with Dewalt having the heavier battery. Looks can be deceiving I guess!
Bremon wrote:
54 minutes ago, Bremon said:HD carpentry on IG is doing weigh ins for FlexVolt tools with 9.0 vs Fuel tools with 9.0. I didn’t realize the Super Hawg was over a pound heavier than DeBeast, and that’s with Dewalt having the heavier battery. Looks can be deceiving I guess!
Saw that, yeah that was a surprise!
It might be a good thing tho
I wasn’t surprised about the circ saw DeWalt being heavier, and that might be a good thing too
KnarlyCarl wrote:
12 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:Saw that, yeah that was a surprise!
It might be a good thing tho
I wasn’t surprised about the circ saw DeWalt being heavier, and that might be a good thing too
Hold on to DeBeast extra tight; lighter could mean easier for it to break your nose lol. Circ saw being heavier likely is an advantage cutting right side up, but upside down not so much. I took a look at the FlexVolt circ saw in HD this past weekend, it’s a sample size of one, but it’s shoe was rock solid. Shame about that rafter hook though.
KnarlyCarl wrote:
On 10/1/2016 at 10:18 AM, KnarlyCarl said:Lol I tend to do that sometimes!
Here’s an example of how impressive but impractical the drill(really the bit itself) is, 4″ self feed bit:
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This requires a lot of counter force on the drill as you see, but i think this drill would work better with a carbide tip hole saw (CTHS shall we say?). The main problem I have with this is just the bit really in this example.
I would not want to drill this all day, and not even after a few holes ha.
Need a carbide hole saw instead!
What happens when you bottom out on a hole saw? I grab my hammer and use the claw to pry the plug until it snaps off from the rest of the wood and pull it out and keep going! I’ve done this many enough times to know I don’t want to use a self feed bit for that. I let the CTHS do the work for me, with little counter force required to hold onto the drill.
Ridiculous power in the drill tho, hold onto it for dear life!!!
are hatefulmechanic and @KnarlyCarl the same person?
Jronman wrote:
On 1/17/2017 at 0:07 AM, Jronman said:are hatefulmechanic and @KnarlyCarl the same person?
Nah no way lol
Really glad I impulse bought this over a tool I really needed (smh). I’ve drilled out a handful of houses now for electrical, and not having to deal with that cord was incredible. A huge time saver. I flipped the handle and it feels more natural using it.
These are definitely the type of tool that if you don’t have a specific use for them might be a little meh but if you DO have a specific use are a lifesaver. I have a Milwaukee M12 right angle impact that I don’t use all the time but when you have a cramped space that you can’t even think about getting a regular pistol grip impact into it’s a lifesaver and worth every penny. Still though I find myself using it more and more for jobs where all out power is meaningless…
JerryNY wrote:
1 hour ago, JerryNY said:These are definitely the type of tool that if you don’t have a specific use for them might be a little meh but if you DO have a specific use are a lifesaver. I have a Milwaukee M12 right angle impact that I don’t use all the time but when you have a cramped space that you can’t even think about getting a regular pistol grip impact into it’s a lifesaver and worth every penny. Still though I find myself using it more and more for jobs where all out power is meaningless…
I still need that thing, haven’t seen ya in a while jerry where have ya been?!