JerryNY wrote:
12 minutes ago, JerryNY said:I don’t have the 6.5 but it looks like the base plate is similar if I recall correctly so it should be ok. The Bora guide is great but I can see how the plate is limited by how well it interfaces with each type of saw. I’m pretty happy with how it works on the 7-1/4 fuel. The stainless plate that has a ruler with inscribed markings on the front of the fuel makes for a good area for the two cone shapped mounting screws to grab on and prevent lateral movement.
I have the same plate and the 6 1/2 and it don’t fit to my liking……it works but still kinda oddly fitting
olletsocmit wrote:
12 hours ago, olletsocmit said:What made you choose the 7 1/4″ one instead of the 6.5″ for that kinda work. Also what is that red thing on your saw
Well it was free for one thing (With purchase of the OneKey kit at Home Depot) but it also takes standard sized blades and was brushless. Sawdust and sparks generally don’t do well together. I had the choice between the circular saw and the Sawzall and the circular saw would get more use.
So I don’t know why, but I took the 6.5″ circular saw back tonight and swapped it for the 7 1/4″. Not sure why I care about the side the blade is on haha. I really don’t need the 7 1/4″ but I think I like blade right better. I will never be cutting thru anything think enough to matter…
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Nice saw, it’s all about comfort
Jimbo
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Yeah regardless of the reason behind blade right or left, sometimes it comes down to personal preference, and it should easily suit your needs.
Hey Tim, did you get a chance to read this post here? ::
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I had the same “dilemma”, ended up with the 7 1/4″ even if i probably could do just fine with the 6 1/2″.
But i see a M12 – 5 3/8″ coming to my workshop in near future, that look real handy 🙂
Off topic:Maybe we see a 6 1/2″ M12 when the 6amp batteries come?
KnarlyCarl wrote:
Yeah regardless of the reason behind blade right or left, sometimes it comes down to personal preference, and it should easily suit your needs.Hey Tim, did you get a chance to read this post here? ::
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Thanks a lot man yeah I just saw it the other night I appreciate everyone letting me know and looking out. I have actually sold it about a week ago on here but I’m getting my hands on another one next week. I will let everyone who asked me about one know when I have it
verktool wrote:
I had the same “dilemma”, ended up with the 7 1/4″ even if i probably could do just fine with the 6 1/2″.But i see a M12 – 5 3/8″ coming to my workshop in near future, that look real handy [emoji4]
Off topic:Maybe we see a 6 1/2″ M12 when the 6amp batteries come?
Nice!! I love my m12 5-3/8 and as little as I have need for a circular saw, it fits me perfectly, pretty impressive
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I do really with they made a 6.5″ that had blade on right. I really don’t need the bigger blade and extra weight. But I think the 7 1/4″ will do just fine
Are any of you guys able to make a video for me with go pro or regular video camera using your left or right sided circ saw. Does not have to be in Milwaukee saw just trying to get the same perspective from both sides or maybe held at the angle you look at the blade at if that makes any sense. I got a few messages on here from people asking the same thing as well as on Instagram I think a lot of people are confused about the blade side difference as well.
Also I keep hearing a lot of people say they like it all one side or the other because they can look at the blade water cutting can you guys post a picture of exactly where you’re looking while you’re cutting I just look at the front notch on the front of the Saw, with blade left are you looking literally at the blade inside the guard or something
olletsocmit wrote:
Are any of you guys able to make a video for me with go pro or regular video camera using your left or right sided circ saw. Does not have to be in Milwaukee saw just trying to get the same perspective from both sides or maybe held at the angle you look at the blade at if that makes any sense. I got a few messages on here from people asking the same thing as well as on Instagram I think a lot of people are confused about the blade side difference as well.Also I keep hearing a lot of people say they like it all one side or the other because they can look at the blade water cutting can you guys post a picture of exactly where you’re looking while you’re cutting I just look at the front notch on the front of the Saw, with blade left are you looking literally at the blade inside the guard or something
Yes I’m literally watching the blade cut through the material, I’ve never used the guide notch on the front of the plate. With blade right, I can watch the blade in front of the motor from left of the saw. Never had a problem, it’s what I got used to, never gave it a passing thought.
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Also see:
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olletsocmit wrote:
On July 2, 2016 at 10:57 PM, olletsocmit said:So I don’t know why, but I took the 6.5″ circular saw back tonight and swapped it for the 7 1/4″. Not sure why I care about the side the blade is on haha. I really don’t need the 7 1/4″ but I think I like blade right better. I will never be cutting thru anything think enough to matter…
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Yeah I can you wanting to get a man sized saw instead of a girly man little baby saw ? Jk… They are all good. One thing about the dust chute; it really works!!! Just try to avoid standing directly in front of it. I was cutting some cellular pvc trim and the white dust poured out of that chute and a few times I wasn’t paying attention and it coated me in super staticky white powder. I looked like a coke dealer gone wild with my merchandise. Lucky I was out garage and just used the blower to blast it off of me and the saw. The blade sliceing through the pvc really is like a static machine and that dust is soooo annoying ?
Also I don’t entirely understand the blade sided thing that much. I mean sure I get people get used to it but I have saws with blades on either side. Depending on the project and how I cut things I use either my left or right hand pretty much equally well. I’m not ambidextrous but maybe I’m better with my off hand than most so it doesn’t seem like an inconvenience to me at all really.
Well being a lefty it is nice for me when cutting away but I’m so used to the blades being on the left side and not being able to see them. My new HKC is lined up just right for this dude though 😀
JerryNY wrote:
Yeah I can you wanting to get a man sized saw instead of a girly man little baby saw ? Jk… They are all good. One thing about the dust chute; it really works!!! Just try to avoid standing directly in front of it. I was cutting some cellular pvc trim and the white dust poured out of that chute and a few times I wasn’t paying attention and it coated me in super staticky white powder. I looked like a coke dealer gone wild with my merchandise. Lucky I was out garage and just used the blower to blast it off of me and the saw. The blade sliceing through the pvc really is like a static machine and that dust is soooo annoying ?
Wish we had these:
…
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Yeah it’s a bit of a joke how little dust collection is worried about in North America.
verktool wrote:
On July 3, 2016 at 5:24 AM, verktool said:Off topic:Maybe we see a 6 1/2″ M12 when the 6amp batteries come?
I doubt it; still too much current draw on 6 cells despite them being so dense.
Olletsocmit congrats on the 7.25″. I’ve briefly played around with that saw and it seems like it means business. The dust chute and blade selection are nice perks, and you’ll quickly get used to using the guide for cut lines. With my blade left 6.5, yes, I literally watch the blade to see my cut. As far as the Milwaukee rep, my guess is there’s no way in hell you’re going to get twice as many cuts as the 6.5, that just seems completely illogical to me.
I know I sound crazy now hahahha. But I am leaning towards maybe taking this 7 1/4″ back and getting the left blade side one again.
olletsocmit wrote:
1 hour ago, olletsocmit said:I know I sound crazy now hahahha. But I am leaning towards maybe taking this 7 1/4″ back and getting the left blade side one again.
I have mentioned I have the 6 1/2″ left sided fuel and have no regrets at all will cut pretty much anything the 7 1/4″ will cut on a regular basis aside from stacked stock….heck the 5 3/8″ is a power house too for that matter….
KnarlyCarl wrote:
Wish we had these:…
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Why exactly Are the Milwaukee tools different overseas? things like the black case and things like this dust shoot vac attachment. And also the writing on their batteries?
olletsocmit wrote:
33 minutes ago, olletsocmit said:Why exactly Are the Milwaukee tools different overseas? things like the black case and things like this dust shoot vac attachment. And also the writing on their batteries?
I think they have different statutes on dust control in different countries which require ability to have dust extractor attachments. I can see the usefulness but I do almost all my circular saw cutting outside in the garage so it’s not a big deal for me, aside from annoying pvc dust…
JerryNY wrote:
I think they have different statutes on dust control in different countries which require ability to have dust extractor attachments. I can see the usefulness but I do almost all my circular saw cutting outside in the garage so it’s not a big deal for me, aside from annoying pvc dust…
Is there a thread anywhere about all the differences between our tools and theirs. Would be nice to know for each tool. Honestly I’d like to see the differences between the saws, the drills, the drivers, etc. so I can order the parts for mine
KnarlyCarl wrote:
18 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:Wish we had these:
…
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for those interested… you can just change the language on the Milwaukee site and i was able to bring up the 6.5 and 7 1/4″ ones with the blade guages with the part for connecting to vac. Does anyone know were we would be able to order and get shipped the 2 parts? upper blade guard and the adapter piece?
Here is a link to the site and some pics: http://www.milwaukeetool.eu/powertools/cordless/m18-ccs66/
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parts needed for the 6.5″ version:
This is a pic of the 7 1/4″ this is super cool….
— Here is a link to the manual if anyone is interested… http://webservice.ttigroup.eu/local/uploaded/catalog/4931425222.pdfa
I also have been wondering why some tools come in different versions in US compared to Europe.
First time i noticed was when i got my M18 Fuel 1″ Rotary hammer(2712) which had changable chuck and came with SDS Plus chuck and ratctheting chuck. Had seen a ton of reviews but not that feature before.
As far as the circular saw goes i havent tested it with the adapter for vacuum yet, but if it works i see that as a good thing for use indoors 🙂
My saw came with a guide also(a cheap, simple type), is the included in the US version?
Tried to post pictures, but just:upload failed
OK guys… Here I go again ha ha so I originally started out and bought the 6 1/2 inch fuel circular saw. Sat on my workbench for one day in the box never used it because I couldn’t get my mind off of “I probably should’ve got the 7 1/4″ bigger one that was blade right”. And then after I posted that I got the blade right one I did more research and everyone I talked to said that blade left was easier to cut with…. I probably spent a half an hour at the store trying both… I then noticed what people were talking about and my mind started a flip-flop again (obviously I have ADD hahaha).
….so to get to my point, I was walking around looking for other things when I noticed there was a blade left 6 1/2 inch fuel one on clearance …for 100 fucking dollars. So it seems that stores may be getting rid of the blade left 6 1/2’s and going with the new ones 7 1/4’s since the fuel 6.5″ is three + years old now.
So basically I’m back to my blade left …for 100 bucks I think I’ll learn how to fucking use it! Moral of the story is stick with your first pick it’s usually, well always the right one
Yeah $100 is a steal for that saw. Cheaper than the m12… So with the money saved you could almost get an m12 fuel saw too ?
Lol nice deal, could have just been an open box item too maybe?
Jimbo
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Suggestions on nice blade for the 6.5″ guys? The only diable on HD had was a 40 tooth for $25
olletsocmit wrote:
1 minute ago, olletsocmit said:Suggestions on nice blade for the 6.5″ guys? The only diable on HD had was a 40 tooth for $25
depends on what you will be cutting mostly, but a thin kerf 40 tooth diablo is a nice blade. It is a small circular saw, don’t think they make any with more teeth than that for that size….
I found a bunch of sites online like this one that sell the saws with the dust attachment. I will try and call when its a normal time over there and see how much it costs and let everyone know. I am sure if there are a few of us interested it would make shipping like $10 each person. Is the UK the best place or does anyone know a closer location?
http://www.twwholesale.co.uk/product.php/sn/Milwaukee-M18CCS55-0
olletsocmit wrote:
2 hours ago, olletsocmit said:So basically I’m back to my blade left …for 100 bucks I think I’ll learn how to fucking use it! Moral of the story is stick with your first pick it’s usually, well always the right one
The moral I got was if you change your mind enough you can get a M18 fuel circular saw for $100
olletsocmit wrote:
4 hours ago, olletsocmit said:Moral of the story is stick with your first pick it’s usually, well always the right one
Now I’m confused. I thought the first pick was the left one. In all seriousness, congrats on the saw. Sometimes the numbers do the choosing for us, and sometimes it’s better that way (saves us from being paralyzed by indecision).
The Diablo 40 tooth 7-1/4 is a pretty great blade so the 40 tooth 6-1/2 is probably even a little better and smoother cut because same tooth count on a slightly smaller blade. It depends what you want though. If you need/want really smooth cuts the 40 is great. Otherwise the regular 24t Diablo framing blade gives a really nice cut and goes much easier through things and the battery will last longer. It’s really up to you and what you need to cut and how clean a cut you’re looking for…
JerryNY wrote:
The Diablo 40 tooth 7-1/4 is a pretty great blade so the 40 tooth 6-1/2 is probably even a little better and smoother cut because same tooth count on a slightly smaller blade. It depends what you want though. If you need/want really smooth cuts the 40 is great. Otherwise the regular 24t Diablo framing blade gives a really nice cut and goes much easier through things and the battery will last longer. It’s really up to you and what you need to cut and how clean a cut you’re looking for…
I’ve noticed similar results with the 40t 6 1/2″ and the 60t 7 1/4″
Jimbo
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I will be cutting 2×4’s and plywood mostly. Also window and door trim sometimes. Is there a major dif between the 24 Milwaukee and 24 diable tooth blades? Do I need one of those super high tooth ones to cut plywood or is the Diablo 40 fine
The Diablo 24t cuts noticeably cleaner and easier than the stock Milwaukee blade. I think it’s a thinner kerf so it removes less material and hence does less work for the same cut. This means more cuts because it uses less power per cut and less battery. For $10 they are a no-brainer, twofer $10 specials are hard to pass up even more. They even seem to stay really sharp for a long time. The 40t blades are slightly harder on the battery and make some cuts take longer but very smooth. On a circular saw I don’t see much need to go with 60t unless it’s for some specially purpose because the accuracy on a handheld saw is going to be harder to attain than say a table or miter saw anyway. The 40t isn’t a bad choice for plywood if you like a smoother cut. The material is so thin anyway it’s not really going to slow the saw down and it’ll give you less tear out. I sometimes leave my 40t on cutting 2×4’s if I only have a few to do if that’s the last blade I used. It’s not like you can’t use a 40t all the time but for 2×4 and framing it’s better to just use the framing blade, Also the framing 24t will cut through nails pretty easily if you’re cutting things already in place and you’d not want to use a more expensive 40t blade and risk throwing some nice carbide teeth.
I really love Diablo blades. I have an really old Ryobi 5-3/8 circ saw, over a decade old blue one, and I did two things that made it like new. I put the newer lithium batteries on it and threw a thin kerf Diablo blade and it’s great as a backup garage saw for quick cuts when I need it. It’s a 36 tooth finish blade too and the thing seems to have no problem cutting through almost anything. The only reason I don’t have an m12 5-3/8″ is because of that blade. That’s not to say the m12 isn’t awesome, it is, but I don’t really need to have an awesome secondary saw when I have the fuel full sized one.
JerryNY wrote:
The Diablo 24t cuts noticeably cleaner and easier than the stock Milwaukee blade. I think it’s a thinner kerf so it removes less material and hence does less work for the same cut. This means more cuts because it uses less power per cut and less battery. For $10 they are a no-brainer, twofer $10 specials are hard to pass up even more. They even seem to stay really sharp for a long time. The 40t blades are slightly harder on the battery and make some cuts take longer but very smooth. On a circular saw I don’t see much need to go with 60t unless it’s for some specially purpose because the accuracy on a handheld saw is going to be harder to attain than say a table or miter saw anyway. The 40t isn’t a bad choice for plywood if you like a smoother cut. The material is so thin anyway it’s not really going to slow the saw down and it’ll give you less tear out. I sometimes leave my 40t on cutting 2×4’s if I only have a few to do if that’s the last blade I used. It’s not like you can’t use a 40t all the time but for 2×4 and framing it’s better to just use the framing blade, Also the framing 24t will cut through nails pretty easily if you’re cutting things already in place and you’d not want to use a more expensive 40t blade and risk throwing some nice carbide teeth.
I really love Diablo blades. I have an really old Ryobi 5-3/8 circ saw, over a decade old blue one, and I did two things that made it like new. I put the newer lithium batteries on it and threw a thin kerf Diablo blade and it’s great as a backup garage saw for quick cuts when I need it. It’s a 36 tooth finish blade too and the thing seems to have no problem cutting through almost anything. The only reason I don’t have an m12 5-3/8″ is because of that blade. That’s not to say the m12 isn’t awesome, it is, but I don’t really need to have an awesome secondary saw when I have the fuel full sized one.
For the 6.5″ the cheapest place I am finding them is actually HD. Thought they would of been less online.
– 40 T = $20
– 24 T = $11
Yeah amazon’s prices are about the same if you have prime. I don’t have a 6-1/2″ so I’ve never shopped that size blade to be honest but I did pick up a pair of Diablo’s new 7-1/4″ 24t blades for $9.99 at HD a few weeks ago. I don’t know if they do the same deal ever with the smaller ones but even for that price of $10 for a single blade you won’t find a better one IMHO.
olletsocmit wrote:
15 hours ago, olletsocmit said:I will be cutting 2×4’s and plywood mostly. Also window and door trim sometimes. Is there a major dif between the 24 Milwaukee and 24 diable tooth blades? Do I need one of those super high tooth ones to cut plywood or is the Diablo 40 fine
Get one of each. You’ll probably use the 40t most of the time because it gives a smoother cut on ply and 2x and you definitely need it for trim, but you don’t want to wreck the blade cutting something that might have nails.