Comp56’s Daily Handy Tips

I will be posting some Handy Tips I have come across over the years…. some of them will be well known and some may be new to you.

These tips will probably save you time and some times money but most times will save you a bunch of frustration. I will be posting as a reply and also editing the first post so eventually all the tips will be in the first post so they will be easy to find.

comment or post your own tips and I will add them to the first post in sequential order with your username 

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Wow i love the tip 2. Thanks Comp56 i look forward to seeing these. Great great tread.

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Thanks comp. I’m struggling to visualise Tip 2, could you attach a sketch or photo or something?

Yes as soon as I get home

ok so here is just an example to get exact line, I’m using a corner that is not square but it can be used on a straight line that is not prefect as well you are just marking a line exact as the wall or anything you need without a gap.

first pic shows how to mark cut line 

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second pic shows new cut line that will be the same as the corner…..

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Nice tips comp I’m really digging number 2! Keepem coming!

Nice tips Comp.

thats pretty sweet Comp, thanks!

I suppose if someone were worried the washer would leave marks on drywall (plaster, where i come from), they could always use a plastic/nylon washer.

2nd tip is fantastic! never really considered anything like that, very clever. thanks, and i’m looking forward to your updates!

Tip 1 Blind Set Screw

have you ever had to deal with a blind set screw? can’t see it for the life of you or it is just to far to hold the little set screw to get it started but you have to get it in the hole. magnetic alan or Hex keys can work but most are not magnetic.

Solution: 

take a small piece of 2 sided tape and wrap it around the end of the alan key, so the set screw sticks to the key and you can guide it in to get it started so it don’t fall off. Once you have the set screw started you can remove the tape. this can be done in reverse as well if you are removing the set screw and don’t want to drop it and or lose it. 

Tip 2 Cutting a Not so Straight Line

Need to make a cut to match a line that is not straight, possibly you are putting a shelf on a wall and the wall has some highs and lows, or ins and outs….so a straight cut line will not look right because of the gaps?

Solution: 

put a board or the shelf you want to place on the wall then take a regular flat washer, run your pencil on the outside edge of the inside circle of the washer along the wall and it will transfer the exact line you need to make the match. you then can cut the new line you just drew. this can work on all kinds of things I just used a shelf for an example.

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The tape method is pretty cool.

Love the recip blade tip too!

comp56 wrote:

Tip 4: Make a Corner Clamp

Don’t have a third hand, or a corner clamp? here is a quick and easy way to get it done….

Solution:

Take a scrap piece of plywood, (or any wood) cut it in a triangle making sure it is square….cut or drill a triangular hole in the corner for clamps and clamp away……

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Just wanted to say Thank You for these tips, it’s awesome that you are posting these, I am learning a ton of new tricks.  This is yet another reason why this forum rocks, and why it’s the best tool forum on the web.

-Steven

Loving the tips comp keepem comng bro!!

Tip 8 Dress your Stones
 

 Need to dress a bench top grinding stone, square off the the grinding face, you probably have the tool to do it…….
Solution: 
use an old carbide saw blade and run it slowly across the face of the stone and it will dress the stone nicely

Sent in by jeffmcmillan

Comp why did you stop these tips man? They where great, friendly reminder. My apologies I’ve been away for work purposes(harvest) but now that I’m back i was hopping there would be like a 100 of these.

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Here’s a tip: put scotch tape on the face of your tape measure so you can write your measurements on it. Note: use a pencil with an eraser for continuous work.

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Thank for bringing this to light again, @jrsalas and thanks @comp56 for the awesome tips. There are many posts that I have yet to read through and benefit from, and this is one such example.
I don’t see anyone else contributing their cools tips, let’s pile them in here, no need to make comp do all the work!!

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A simple way to minimize tear outs on sheet goods while cutting with a circular saw if you don’t have a table saw or zero clearance track is to put masking tape down the path where the blade will cut, if you need it to look that good, and make sure to run the saw through slowly. It will generally not chip anyways with a good blade, but for that last little bit of detail, it works for me 

To piggy back what Carl said if your using  jig saw flip your work upside down to cut, same result.

JimboS1ice wrote:

To piggy back what Carl said if your using  jig saw flip your work upside down to cut, same result.

If you need one good side this is perfect.

To clarify, if you need both sides to not chip out, use the masking tape in a pinch.

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a good tip for drilling large holes if don’t want tear out, run hole saw through only until pilot goes through take bit out put in back side and run in reverse for a few seconds return to first side and drill as you normally would….

comp56 wrote:

a good tip for drilling large holes if don’t want tear out, run hole saw through only until pilot goes through take bit out put in back side and run in reverse for a few seconds return to first side and drill as you normally would….

Welcome back[emoji6]

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As stated in the “Painstaking Process” thread…

“I have a set of metric and a set of standard 1/4-drive sockets on socket rails in my tool bag at work, got sick of grabbing the wrong set so I used auto touch-up paint and colored the engraved line on the metrics. Wiped off the excess and now there’s a line on the metrics so I can tell at a glance what set I’m grabbing.

Do the same with your wrenches, just put the paint in the size markings or in the name on the wrench, wipe it off with a cloth, and the paint should stay in the markings. Use durable paint and you won’t have any problems with it fading or getting rubbed off”

” Anything will work, just put the paint where you want it, then wipe a cloth over it so the only paint left is in the recesses. ”

Any paint will work, spray paint, touch-up paint, lacquer, nail polish, whatever. Just put it were you want, then wipe a cloth over it so the excess is wiped off. It works better with cloth like paper towels, blue shop towels, etc.. Regular towels like bath towels won’t work as good because the fibers can get into the recess and wipe some of that pain out. Better to use a smoother towel so it goes over the recess and not into it. It’ll work on anything too, not just wrenches.

I used a paint pen to go over the markings in one of my GearWrench kits so I could see the numbers. Black numbers molded into a black surface are hard to see sometimes, rub some gold or silver paint pen on it and you can see it clear as a bell.

comp56 wrote:

On 9/10/2015 at 10:13 AM, comp56 said:

Tip 3: Draw a circle without Compass….

 

 

 

 

need to draw a perfect circle but don’t have a compass handy?

 

 

 

 

 

Solution:

 

 

 

 

 

use a sawzall blade ….put a screw in the end of the blade, put your pencil on the tooth for desired size and draw your circle.

 

 

 

 

 

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You can use a string too. Put the screw or whatever in the middle, tie a string around it and your pencil the measurement you need, then run your line. Tie the string loose around the screw and the pencil so it doesn’t wrap around either and make your circle oblong.

Of course if you don’t have your compass handy, it might be a similar problem if you don’t have string handy…

The corner clamp idea is great!! I use the tape-for-screws method a lot, it also works for nuts and tight areas. You put a piece of tape on one side of an open-end wrench, then stick the nut to the tape.

Marking on a tape measure…use a dry erase marker. I do it all the time

Another good tip, which is probably obvious to anybody who cuts sheet goods without a table saw: I know the measurement between the base and blade of my circular saws, and I just add it to the measurement I need from my sheet. I lay my 6′ level down, clamp it down, and run the saw along. Works like a charm.

Kato wrote:

The corner clamp idea is great!! I use the tape-for-screws method a lot, it also works for nuts and tight areas. You put a piece of tape on one side of an open-end wrench, then stick the nut to the tape.

 

Marking on a tape measure…use a dry erase marker. I do it all the time

 

 

Another good tip, which is probably obvious to anybody who cuts sheet goods without a table saw: I know the measurement between the base and blade of my circular saws, and I just add it to the measurement I need from my sheet. I lay my 6′ level down, clamp it down, and run the saw along. Works like a charm.

In case you forget the measurements of the Saw have it written on the saw somewhere or even engrave or stamp it

I’ll never forget, I do it so often that the measurements for my saws and the saw at work are in my head. But that’s a good tip you gave.

Kato wrote:

I’ll never forget, I do it so often that the measurements for my saws and the saw at work are in my head. But that’s a good tip you gave.

Me too but for those that don’t or when your trying to remember multiple measurements it’s nice to have at a glance.

That’s why I said it was a good tip… 😛

Just thought of something regarding holesaws….

If you have a less than stellar holesaw in your possession and that’s all you have at the moment, it will require more work from both you and the drill. To minimize this, and make it easier to drill the hole, start the holesaw like normal, and get it started a little bit, just enough to get the circle started where the teeth start digging in. Then take the holesaw off the arbor, leaving the centering bit. Use the bit, drill several holes around where you just started the circle for the holesaw, and drill all the way through the material. The more holes, the easier it will be, perhaps every inch around the circumference. Then put the holesaw back on the arbor and drill it out…

This isn’t meant to be a quick solution, but just put a lot less strain on you and your drill, and in some cases, will actually be much quicker

Great tip Carl! Also if you rock it a little bit it helps the plug come out easier as well.

Jimbo

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KnarlyCarl wrote:

55 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:

Just thought of something regarding holesaws….

If you have a less than stellar holesaw in your possession and that’s all you have at the moment, it will require more work from both you and the drill. To minimize this, and make it easier to drill the hole, start the holesaw like normal, and get it started a little bit, just enough to get the circle started where the teeth start digging in. Then take the holesaw off the arbor, leaving the centering bit. Use the bit, drill several holes around where you just started the circle for the holesaw, and drill all the way through the material. The more holes, the easier it will be, perhaps every inch around the circumference. Then put the holesaw back on the arbor and drill it out…

This isn’t meant to be a quick solution, but just put a lot less strain on you and your drill, and in some cases, will actually be much quicker

You also might be able to start the holesaw, punch through with the drill and then use that to fit your jigsaw blade through. Then cut using the initial cuts as a track. I’m not sure which one would be easier, I guess it’s the size and accuracy you need for the hole will determine that.

comp56 wrote:

a good tip for drilling large holes if don’t want tear out, run hole saw through only until pilot goes through take bit out put in back side and run in reverse for a few seconds return to first side and drill as you normally would….

Ron Paulk recently shared that in on of his vids.

KnarlyCarl wrote:

6 hours ago, KnarlyCarl said:

Just thought of something regarding holesaws….

If you have a less than stellar holesaw in your possession and that’s all you have at the moment, it will require more work from both you and the drill. To minimize this, and make it easier to drill the hole, start the holesaw like normal, and get it started a little bit, just enough to get the circle started where the teeth start digging in. Then take the holesaw off the arbor, leaving the centering bit. Use the bit, drill several holes around where you just started the circle for the holesaw, and drill all the way through the material. The more holes, the easier it will be, perhaps every inch around the circumference. Then put the holesaw back on the arbor and drill it out…

This isn’t meant to be a quick solution, but just put a lot less strain on you and your drill, and in some cases, will actually be much quicker

another tip to save your blade is to drill a relief hole right along hole opening lets chips fall out and helps keep hole saw blade from getting hot which will save you the blade in the long run.

Guys that have cordless hammerdrills and use the side handle, put the clip on the same side to your handedness, if your right handed put the clip on the right side, drill will hang off your left but the handle will be facing right, if the clip was on the left to allow the drill to hang on the rightside of your body, the handle would interfere. Generally right handed guys the handle faces left… ya follow?

adjustable wrench on the cheap, may not solve all your problems but having it may come in handy…. 

been awhile since I added to this but here is one…

you ever need to drill into a piece at a 45 degree with a regular wood drill bit, not having any kind of guide it is near impossible to get it started

here is a simple way to do this take a scrap piece of wood and cut it at a 45 at the end clamp it down over top the piece you want to drill, now you can start a drill hole very easy on the flat if you need to drill more than one hole just move it back the desired amount…..

comp56 wrote:

On 9/9/2015 at 8:47 PM, comp56 said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I will be posting some Handy Tips I have come across over the years…. some of them will be well known and some may be new to you.

These tips will probably save you time and some times money but most times will save you a bunch of frustration. I will be posting as a reply and also editing the first post so eventually all the tips will be in the first post so they will be easy to find.

comment or post your own tips and I will add them to the first post in sequential order with your username 

 

Tip 1: Blind Set Screw

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=80746

Tip 2: Cutting a Not so Straight Line 
http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=80748

Tip 3: Draw a circle without Compass….

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=80776

Tip 4: Take the guessing out of Miter saw cuts….

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=80777

Tip 5 : Make a Corner Clamp

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=80911

Tip 6 : Fold Sandpaper Properly

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=81080

Tip 7: Corner to Corner Measurement without bending tape measure.

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=81216

Tip 8: Dress Your Stone By jeffmcmillan

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/?p=81782

Thanks, however none of your links to individual posts works correctly. They all just redirects to the start of this topic instead of the individual posts they are supposed to link to.

I have edited all the links to work correctly below, could you please edit your original post to copy/paste the working links below instead of your links? Thanks.

Tip 1: Blind Set Screw

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-80746

Tip 2: Cutting a Not so Straight Line

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-80748

Tip 3: Draw a circle without Compass….

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-80776

Tip 4: Take the guessing out of Miter saw cuts….

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-80777

Tip 5 : Make a Corner Clamp

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-80911

Tip 6 : Fold Sandpaper Properly

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-81080

Tip 7: Corner to Corner Measurement without bending tape measure.

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-81216

Tip 8: Dress Your Stone By jeffmcmillan

http://professional-power-tool-guide.com/power-tool-forum/index.php?/topic/7433-comp56s-daily-handy-tips/#comment-81782

comp56 wrote:

On 9/11/2015 at 7:10 PM, comp56 said:

 

 

Tip 4: Make a Corner Clamp

 

 

This post should have said Tip 5. You have two Tip 4 and no Tip 5.

all fixed thanks…..

I know some things got screwed up when the forum got the whole overhaul. Many things were not correct like this and if you go back far enough on older threads, the pictures are all gone

KnarlyCarl wrote:

56 minutes ago, KnarlyCarl said:

I know some things got screwed up when the forum got the whole overhaul. Many things were not correct like this and if you go back far enough on older threads, the pictures are all gone

that’s what I figured, something from the upgrade for the forum just no one checked this type of link…..all is good,….

Thought I’d add this priceless trick I found on Instagram, it has made my finish plumbing work so easy and rather enjoyable…

Some of you may already know about this, but I did not…

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