Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Around The House). This thread is read-only.
Decided to tackle replacing some of my fence today. Frame is all assembled using Kreg HD pocket hole screws. Double lapped cedar pickets.
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I still need to finish the cedar 2×6 cap and build a gate.
Looking good brotha, time for a beer!
good job and the fence ricky. i love wood fencing, specially the smell of wet cedar 😛
Are you gonna tread it ?
looking good
love the cedar, tell was there a reason you chamfered the ends at the top or was it just for looks?
great job btw….
comp56 wrote:
love the cedar, tell was there a reason you chamfered the ends at the top or was it just for looks?
great job btw….
its called dog ears. most of the time they come like this when you buy them at the store
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madman_us wrote:
good job and the fence ricky. i love wood fencing, specially the smell of wet cedar 😛
Are you gonna tread it ?
I’ll end up spraying a light cedar tone sealer.
comp56 wrote:
love the cedar, tell was there a reason you chamfered the ends at the top or was it just for looks?
great job btw….
They’re dog ear pickets. They’ll be covered up with 1×2 cedar with a 2×6 cedar cap.
hmm must not be common here I’ve never seen them before thought you cut them….lol
Looks great.What was the cost per lineal foot? Were getting ready to put up a fence and looked at some of the vinyls options and had sticker shock
99_XC600 wrote:
Looks great.What was the cost per lineal foot? Were getting ready to put up a fence and looked at some of the vinyls options and had sticker shock
Most of the lumber is cull lumber so I’m probably less that $4.00 per foot. I’ll see if I can calculate it tomorrow.
RickyMcGrath wrote:
I’ll end up spraying a light cedar tone sealer.
spar urethane semi gloss looks nice on cedar – gives it a really nice golden glow
Looks clean. Congrats, happy 4th.
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Wow Ricky, looks awesome. Love that your using pocket holes too, will last forever.
ChrisK1970 wrote:
Wow Ricky, looks awesome. Love that your using pocket holes too, will last forever.
Thanks. I thought I’d give it a try. A little time consuming but I’m confident it’s exponentially stronger over using deck screws driven at an angle in the top and bottom of the rail.
Wow nice fence, puts mine to shame. The kreg jig is the best thing since sliced bread. I used it for my deck rails and wow what a tight fit. They lock the wood together. U just have to watch that u don’t over tighten the screws, because they can pull through.
Good looking fence Ricky, you are doing The Woodlands proud.
. That’s a sweet lookin door Ricky!RickyMcGrath wrote:
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What style hinges are you using on the gate? Strap hinges with a forged type look?
I haven’t completely decided yet. The gate is just tacked in place with a few screws to keep the dogs in. I have a 6×6 post there so probably the common strap style hinges from Lowes
That’s a good looking fence. Mine’s all falling apart, still trying to come up with the funds to fix/replace it. Like the Kreg jig idea, used that one on my side gate.
looks great!
Got some hinges on and a door lever.
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looks awesome ricky
madman_us wrote:
looks awesome ricky
Thanks madman. It turned out better than I planned.
Looking good.
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It looks really good but is there any reason why the screws are so high up? Here code is 2 foot spacing on 2×4 and fence post 4×4 spaced every 4 feet buried in two feet of concrete. I live in a hurricane zone so when I see how fences are built in other places I’m confused..lol
Justin Hernandez wrote:
It looks really good but is there any reason why the screws are so high up? Here code is 2 foot spacing on 2×4 and fence post 4×4 spaced every 4 feet buried in two feet of concrete. I live in a hurricane zone so when I see how fences are built in other places I’m confused..lol
I put a 2×6 cedar cap on top with a 1×2 cedar trim. So I had to have the top rail 72″ above the rot board. My posts are ~36″ in the ground. Alternating 4×6 and 4×4 with 6×6 for the corners and the gate. Rot board is a 2×10.
I also don’t like having more than 4-6″ of picket above the top rail to keep the pickets from “rabbit earing” where they warp in opposite directions.
RickyMcGrath wrote:
I also don’t like having more than 4-6″ of picket above the top rail to keep the pickets from “rabbit earing” where they warp in opposite directions.
Okay I understand, yea our top rail has to be 6″ below the top of the pickets. We don’t have any fancy wood fences here its just pickets and post and your gate looks really nice too.
