DCF883B DCF880B

looking at these two tools, one is a 3/8 vs 1/2. the 1/2 has a small amount more power. They both appear to be the same size, they are the same weight.

Is there really any significant difference?

What are your expeirences with the two of them?

the 3/8 has a clip on it to hold the socket on, I have them on some air tools and do a very poor job at best. is it the same with this unit or does it really work?

thank you

Richard

I’m just guessing that the higher torque is a function of the slightly more efficient transfer of power through the 1/2″ drive.  The DC820/DC823 had the same anomaly.  In the case of the 880/883, the magnet ring and armature are the same part number.  In fact pretty much everything with the exception of the anvil and nose cone have the same part numbers inside the case.  Even the hammer mechanism has the same number.

As for the hog ring, I far prefer it to the pin.  As the drive wears out it becomes less effective but if you have a socket or extension with a lock hole rather than a detent, that stupid lock pin will get locked in there and make it almost impossible to remove without pushing it in with a pick or small screwdriver.  In any case I think they are pretty comperable, if they are at all like their 18v couterparts anyway (my shop has several of each of those).

how do you like them?

what are you using them for?

which do you prefer.

my main use is going to be to disassemble race motors.

how long do the batteries last.

being lazy right now, do you know how many batteries it come in the kit?

I am surprised there is no control for how much power it transmits like there is with an air ratchet.

I looked at purchasing just the impact, then the batteries separately, that looked like it was going to be way more expensive. I was very surprised when i saw the batteries at a street price of $150 for 2~!

For you I would get the hog ring. It is way better when it comes to changing sockets. If you need more power for head bolts or something along those lines I would get the high torque impact as well. I have used it and it gets plenty of power for engine work. The compact should be fine for 90% of engine tear down.

The shop I work for is a production machine shop, the impacts are used for final assembly as well as all sorts of other odd jobs.  I feel the 3/8″ gets more torque to the socket than the 1/2″ with a 3/8″ reducer.  As I said, the internals are the same up to the anvil according to the schematics.  

As for performance, I can’t speak from experience on the 20v stuff as all my shop runs is 18v.  However, in that case they both perform pretty equally and the battery life is very good, probably a half-shift at least.  The batteries are expensive, although I think the lithium 20v 3.0 aH batts are a little cheaper than the 18v lithiums through most of our vendors.    In any case, I’m sure you wont be disappointed, although personally I’m holding out for a brushless version before I go 20v on an impact.

I absolutely agree BTW that the hog ring is far superior for frequent socket changes!!

i used a buddy’s snap-on when i was running on the dyno last year. it was nice and light to use. the 18v are heavier than a air powered.

side note i was told the tractor supply has the 18v KIT on sale, A friend purchased one for $140 yesterday.

richard

http://www.policypeddler.com

A lot of the old 18v tools are going on sale for next to nothing.

wish i could find a deal on 20v, but they seem to be non existent! my 18v drill came with 2 batteries, do the 20 v impacts come with one or two batteries, if it is one, that is going to be another cost on top of the purchase.

They come as a bare tool or as a two battery kit.

thank you

what are the thoughts of purchasing the 1/2 then using an adapter, that way i can always take the adapter off for the higher power?

I have never done this, but there is no reason i could not use half inch sockets. I just have not as the 3/8 tools are lighter and less tiring in a long day.

I would go with the 3/8 due to the sockets being thinner. 1/2 sockets are noticeably thicker and won’t work in tight spots. The adaptor would hurt the torque as well. If you would need more power I would get the high torque impact.

any particular place you would purchase one from?

Lowes or eBay. For some reason there is a lot of new 20v kits on eBay for cheap. Make sure it has the 4.0 batteries.

how do you tell if it is a 4.0 battery and what is the difference?

It is yellow and black, the 3.0 is just black. The 4.0 should say 4.0 on the side and bottom. It will give you more runtime compared to the 3.0. They also weigh the same.

looking on embay, i see this number,

what does the M2 mean?

i see some of the pictures the batteries are different colors.

I think that the m2 means that they are 4.0 batteries. Are they black and yellow?

all the dewalt batteries seem to be black and yellow, there are some aftermarket that are all black.

the pictures i see on line the 20v battery looks bigger than what i had thought they looked like, they are much deeper than i had thought. i have only seen this impact at sears and it was without battery.

is there more than one size dewalt 20v battery?

Thank you to everyone who has replied & tool Junkie, i really appreciate and enjoy your help, &  thoughts

They make a compact battery but I think that you will be fine with the full size battery. The batteries are much smaller than the old 18v ones.

Dewalt makes 1.5 and 2.0 ah compact batteries, and 3.0 and 4.0 large capacity packs. Amp hours would be equivalent to the size of the gas tank if a battery had one more ah the longer the tool will run before recharging. Dewalt has a few different 20v packs around they have the original release packs with no fuel gauge, updated 1.5 3.0 packs with a fuel gauge, and the new 2.0, 4.0 xr branded packs that come with the newest and updated products. Its kind of a mess.

how does this 18v compare? 

DeWALT DC820B 1/2″ (13mm) 18V Cordless Impact Wrench (Tool Only)

or

then i could use my drill power packs.

How many batteries do you have?

the 2 that came with my drill 2 yrs ago.

If the batteries work fine It should be fine for you. I would check eBay for a bare tool.

NicholasShetley wrote:

I think that the m2 means that they are 4.0 batteries. Are they black and yellow?

M2 = 4.0 Ah (DCB204) x 2

L2 = 3.0 Ah (DCB200) x 2

D2 = 2.0 Ah (DCB203) x 2

C2 = 1.5 Ah (DCB201) x 2

If it says “letter” followed by a “1” that means the kit only comes with one battery. 

Thanks Gatorb888 that’s a good tip for people trying to figure out what the model numbers mean.