Archived from the Tools In Action forum (Outdoor Power Equipment). This thread is read-only.
My super thick skull FINALLY concluded that my old bones needed a larger / more powerful lawn mower than the very nice 21″ Toro walk behind that I’ve been using for cutting. My 21″ Toro 21386 Personal Pace Smart Stow Super Recycling Mower has been working fine, I’ve just been getting too tired after completing my yard care.
My typical problem resolution solution is always over-the-top, no difference here. I wanted / needed powerful drive and a great cut. To that end I selected a John Deere W36R 36″ Commercial Walk Behind Mower. It is very similar, but better than their W36M mower.
This is an amazing machine. For me, learning to operate it is taking me some time, as it is sooo different that anything I’ve ever used previously. As an overview, it is LOADED w/ safety features that STOP the engine if the operator violates ANY of the operational requirements AND it is IMPOSSIBLE to budge this 655 lbs mass using human force.
This machine is only sold at the local John Deere dealership, unlike their residential lawn tractors and zero turn mowers, instead available for purchase at Lowes and Home Depot. What I discovered at my local / nearby dealership is that this is the first / only model like this that they’ve sold. ALL of the landscapers want the zero turn machines, for FAST in/out on the properties that they service, NOT these walk behind machines.
My machine was selected to also include their mulching kit, which swaps out the standard blades, swaps out an under-deck baffle and blocks off the exit chute. The installation of those parts was performed at the dealership, prior to delivery. The machine was delivered w/ the spring-loaded chute still attached, even though the mulching kit has the deck blocked off w/ a plate. I removed that chute, despite the embossed markings stating it must remain in-place. ZERO issue operating w/o the chute AND now having superior visualization of the deck edge, plus making cutting close to something MUCH easier.
There are three things I (currently) don’t like about this machine. One is the obscene cost. The cost is probably fine for the intended purpose of a landscaper earning income. The other is the massive 655 lbs weight. For my application the huge weight is an issue near the front yard swale and the backyard canal at this time of year, during the rainy season when the ground is soft, as the machine will leave tracks or sink. I use my light battery-powered walk behind mower on the soft ground near the water. The third thing is the unusual (to me) operation controls. My expectation is this won’t be an issue as I gain experience using this machine.
This mower is powered by an electric start Kawasaki FX481V 15,5 hp 4-stroke V-twin air / oil cooled engine. The engine starts easily, runs quietly and is very powerful. It has a screw-on automotive-style oil filter. It has a VERY handy loose fly lead capped oil drain hose. One of the differences between this W36R and the W36M is this has a battery powered electric start and the W36M has a recoil pull start. The engine runs on minimum 87 octane regular gasoline. The machine has a large 5.4 gallon fuel tank.
The other difference between the two 36″ models is the drive. Both have hydraulic transmissions w/ a large 4 quart reservoir, having a clearly visible oil level sight glass. This W36R has two Hydro-Gear PK 0.73 cu-in infinitely variable and reversible pumps. As previously mentioned, it is NOT possible to move this machine manually, UNLESS the bypass valves (looks like a bolt) on those PK pumps are first loosened to the bypass position. When both valves are bypassed it is possible to slowly move the machine manually. To restore normal operation, torque these relief valves closed to 110-130 in-lbs. These two pumps drive a White Drive Products hydraulic motor, one for each wheel. My speculation from the website images is these are RE/RC/CE Orbital Motors, as I was unable to locate the specific model information. It is probably special / unique to this machine. All this is contrasted to the hydraulic system on the W36M machine. The W36M instead has two Hydro-Gear ZT-2800 transaxles, combining both the 16cc pump and 10cc motor into a single unit. The forward speed range is 0 to 7.5 mph on the W36R and is 0 to 6.5 mph on the W36M. Both have 0 to 4.8 mph range in reverse.
The machine has 18×6.5-8 pneumatic knobby rear tires and 9×3.5-4 semi-pneumatic smooth front caster tires.
The mower has two 17¼” blades. Like everything else on this machine, the blades are very thick and heavy duty, nothing like a residential mower. The mulching kit includes a large under-deck baffle / deflector surrounding about 180° of the right blade and about 30° of the left blade. This mulching deflector replaces a MUCH smaller deflector on the standard, discharge deck configuration. There are 7 manually selectable cut heights, ranging from 1½” to 4½” in ½” increments, using four clevis pin clips in the corners of the deck.
Everything on the machine is super heavy duty. That includes the welded steel frame and deck. This metal is all very strong and thick.
The operator controls initially look very straightforward until operation is attempted. It has all the normal stuff: throttle; choke; ground speed; blade PTO switch and ignition key switch. There is also a heavy duty parking brake, that pushes a pair of serrated bracket into each tire tread. There are a pair of control handle grips, w/ each having long / slender operator present levers on the back and long sturdy steering control levers on the front. Only one operator present lever is required to be “happy” to keep the engine running. The grip top has a rotating spring-loaded cap, that is used to capture the steering control levers in the neutral position. This all looks easy enough until operation is initially attempted, when it is quickly realized that the human body has insufficient hands. Of course there is a method and a sequence for a human body to properly operate the machine.
An operation overview: ALL of the safety switches are satisfied; the machine is started, usually at half throttle; parking brake released; highest ground speed selected; speed control levers quickly squeezed, causing the spring-loaded rotating neutral locks to release, now movement is possible. The speed control levers may be partially or fully released causing full or partial lever-selected speed forward motion, when levers remain even, or turning motion if levers are staggered. When lever is squeezed, past neutral, that wheel motor goes into reverse, up to full reverse when lever fully squeezed. Sounds easy enough, right? But, what if the PTO needs to be toggled or speed changed? Releasing the speed control lever causes that wheel to move. Not having a third arm / hand I FINALLY realized that I first needed to rotate that neutral steering lock to hold the steering control lever in neutral, freeing up my hand to make control setting changes.
It took LOTS of low rpm / blade off learning for me to get enough confidence on attempting to cut grass. Before turning on the blade PTO the engine is brought to full rpm. LOTS of my property has hills that induce the machine to curve downhill, so I’m always feathering back one wheel to maintain straight motion. The levers permit zero turn for the next cutting row.
Wow, I’m SUPER happy w/ the cut AND I’m super happy w/ the effortless POSITIVE propulsion. Those were my first two primary objectives, great cut and elimination of my high effort workout.
Mowing w/ John Deere W36R
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Front and Side View – Setup as Mulching w/o Side Chute
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Side Cute – Removed for Mulching
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Recycling Barrier – Initially Hidden by Now-Removed Side Chute
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Retired Discharge Blades and Baffle
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Recycling Blades and Recycling Baffle Attached
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Parking Brake
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Operator Controls
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Battery and Hydraulic Fluid Tank w/ Level Sight Glass
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Straight Tracking Knob and Neutral Creep Wrench Adjustments
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Hydraulic Drive Pump w/ Bypass Relief Nut
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Drive Wheel Motor
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Heck yes, that is awesome. I love how everything is heavy duty. This is hopefully the last mower you will ever need to buy,
Sooo much of what happens to my old bones is the last of something.
LOL, I hear you.
wingless wrote:
On 9/27/2026 at 9:58 AM, wingless said:…
My machine was selected to also include their mulching kit, which swaps out the standard blades, swaps out an under-deck baffle and blocks off the exit chute. The installation of those parts was performed at the dealership, prior to delivery. The machine was delivered w/ the spring-loaded chute still attached, even though the mulching kit has the deck blocked off w/ a plate. I removed that chute, despite the embossed markings stating it must remain in-place. ZERO issue operating w/o the chute AND now having superior visualization of the deck edge, plus making cutting close to something MUCH easier.
…
Mowing w/ John Deere W36R
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Side Cute – Removed for Mulching
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Recycling Barrier – Initially Hidden by Now-Removed Side Chute
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FINALLY received the John Deere Mulch Kit Installation Instruction UC21812 (05OCT18) document from the selling dealership, that was included w/ the kit and used during their installation on my machine prior to delivery.
One thing I found interesting is those instructions DO NOT define removal of the spring loaded side chute.
IMO operation w/o that chute is sooo much better and I’m very glad I removed it once the machine was delivered, prior to initial operation.
LOL, I always wonder who develops these directions. Some directions are good and some are so horrible.