Electrical

I’d like to add a light in the stairwell of my basement the nearest power source is a 3 way switch that controls the rest of the lights to the basement. Is it possible to tap the light into the 3 way switch to power it?

I could run it to the other light but it would require a lot more wiring and drilling. So if I could tap into that 3 way switch it would save a lot of wire.

Good question.  I can help with a lot of things but electrical is out of my area.  I would easily give you the wrong advice on this.

Maybe. It depends on how the house was wired.

Do you have something that measures / detects electricity? My FAVORITE is one of those blinky / chirpy electricity detectors that activates when held against a wire. Back in the dinosaur days I got electrocuted more times than I can count when having to use a voltage meter w/ things that should be been ground but were not. I hate getting electrocuted!

Without getting electrocuted or shorting out line to neutral or ground, pull the still-connected switch out of the box, then pull the still connected wires out of the box. Power off at the breaker is the most safe method.

Then see which wires have line voltage (~120VAC) w/ power on at the breaker. Try that measurement w/ both light switches in both positions, four measurements.

If a wire, should be black, has line voltage in all four switch combinations then things are looking good.

Chances are there is a cluster of white wires, twisted together w/ a wire nut. Same also w/ bare ground wires.

Debbie Downer time… It is very likely that the proposed change will violate the electrical code, by exceeding the amount of wires within the existing box volume. Decide for yourself on proceeding w/ that non conformance.

Assuming the box has both line and neutral, if I were doing this modification, then I would unwind and straighten the twisted neutral (white) wires, same w/ the ground wires. If the exposed bare wire was insufficient, then I would strip more insulation. I would then do a beautiful new twist on neutral and on ground. I would select the appropriate wire nut for neutral. My preference on ground is the bare cylindrical crimp on barrel, but a green twist on wire nut is okay too, assuming the quantity and gauge of wires is appropriate.

Getting the line voltage depends on what exists in the box. Report on what’s there and I will comment.

wingless wrote:

10 hours ago, wingless said:

Maybe. It depends on how the house was wired.

 

Do you have something that measures / detects electricity? My FAVORITE is one of those blinky / chirpy electricity detectors that activates when held against a wire. Back in the dinosaur days I got electrocuted more times than I can count when having to use a voltage meter w/ things that should be been ground but were not. I hate getting electrocuted!

 

Without getting electrocuted or shorting out line to neutral or ground, pull the still-connected switch out of the box, then pull the still connected wires out of the box. Power off at the breaker is the most safe method.

 

Then see which wires have line voltage (~120VAC) w/ power on at the breaker. Try that measurement w/ both light switches in both positions, four measurements.

 

If a wire, should be black, has line voltage in all four switch combinations then things are looking good.

 

Chances are there is a cluster of white wires, twisted together w/ a wire nut. Same also w/ bare ground wires.

 

Debbie Downer time… It is very likely that the proposed change will violate the electrical code, by exceeding the amount of wires within the existing box volume. Decide for yourself on proceeding w/ that non conformance.

 

Assuming the box has both line and neutral, if I were doing this modification, then I would unwind and straighten the twisted neutral (white) wires, same w/ the ground wires. If the exposed bare wire was insufficient, then I would strip more insulation. I would then do a beautiful new twist on neutral and on ground. I would select the appropriate wire nut for neutral. My preference on ground is the bare cylindrical crimp on barrel, but a green twist on wire nut is okay too, assuming the quantity and gauge of wires is appropriate.

 

Getting the line voltage depends on what exists in the box. Report on what’s there and I will comment.

Thank you 

so in the box I’ve got a ground and neutral bundle. Red traveler wire and 2 black hot wires one being the common.

YW

Is there an always hot wire, hot w/ either switch in each position?

If so, do you need info on how to safely / properly snag a tap for that additional hot feed for your new light?