Archived from the Tools In Action forum (In The Shop). This thread is read-only.
I am designing a stationary miter station to eventually build if I am able to acquire the shop I want. It is going to be an always setup built in miter station and NOT a portable one. If you were designing an Ultimate Miter Station what would your dream setup look like? What would you consider/include or not include/avoid? If space was of no issue, how big would you go? What does the storage look like? Do you go with only drawers? Only doors? Mix the two? Something else? Upper cabinets? No upper cabinets?
Here is kinda what I have so far for my design. Each side of the saw will be a full 12 feet of support. The storage will have cabinets with trays for my Systainer storage. I can go roughly 6 Systainer cabinets wide and the trays can fit 2 Systainers deep. If I figure roughly 3 trays per cabinet that would be 36 Systainers each side. If I do all Systainer storage on both sides, I would have space for 72 Systainers. I don’t think I would have only systainer storage. I have bunch of tools and stuff outside of Systainers to organize and store. I will probably have a space for a trash can, maybe some regular drawers, and maybe some trays sized for my Tough System. I haven’t decided what all I want to include but I know for sure Systainer storage. The top of the station I was thinking about using the Woodpeckers Stealth Stop system for my solution for repeatable cuts. I am also thinking about going with laminate for the top with a hardwood trim around. I think laminate is a good option because it is reasonably durable, easy to clean, and somewhat low friction. I plan for the cabinets to have no shoe but instead I would frame up a base that can act as a shoe and act as a means to level the miter station.
In my cad drawing I have the top modeled and a Systainer cabinet mostly modeled. I don’t have much else yet.
This is way better thank what I was thinking. Once you get the drawing or once you built it, would like to see it. Sounds very cool.
The name above was more of a placeholder, and I have settled on a name for my build. I will be calling it the “Ultimate Modular Miter Station”.
Here are a few notes of my goals with the project. Some of them may be described above.
[1] Stop block system – Stop blocks are a must for repeatable cuts, and I have decided upon the Woodpeckers Stealth Stop System. I felt it was one of the better commercially available options out there.
[2] Modular top sizes (partly where the modular part comes from) – 4’, 8’, and 12’ (Stealth Stop comes in 4’ lengths. I might add some 32 inch lengths since it also comes in this size too but I haven’t decided yet)
[3] A standardized cabinet system (partly where the modular part comes from) – The cabinet box width will be sized to the brand of modular tool boxes you have. Essentially build a bunch of duplicate cabinet boxes and customize what you put inside (drawers, trays, doors, open cabinet, other)
[4] Multiple widths of cabinets to accommodate various brands of modular tool boxes (partly where the modular part comes from)
[5] Trash can cabinet – This will most likely be sized to fit a 20 gallon rubbermaid brute. I am not sure if other sizes of brutes will fit. If other sizes of Brute fit, I may include sizes for those too.
[6] Base shoe separate from cabinet for leveling purposes – I think having the cabinet box separate from the box will make leveling the cabinets easier. Shops especially old ones tend to not have the most level of floors.
[7] Complete 3d model
[8] Complete 2d plans – I want to include a 3 view of each part, a parts list, instructions on how to build, exploded views, and probably more. I also want to figure out how to accommodate in the plans for the various modular box systems in an understandable way. I will include everything on A size paper (8.5×11) because it might be nice for those who want to print out the plans. A size works on a standard printer. I might also include everything on the more industry standard C size (17×22) but I will not prioritize this because you can’t print out the C size on standard printers. You would need to have a plotter to print C size or bigger.