Cordeles tool for removing car wheel nuts

I am not sure which tool to purchase for removing and tightening of my car’s wheel nuts.

I do I really like the look of the Makita anniversary kit, brushless if possible too.  Can the anniversary drill be purchased with the combi drill ?

I guess an impact wrench is preferred over an impact driver but could the high torque 481 combi drill be used with a 17 or 19m/m 1/2″ drive socket?

Impact drivers are not suitable for lug nuts in general. For removing wheel nuts from the basic car hub, an impact wrench with a rating of 120 ft pounds or higher would be better suited. For reinstalling the nuts though, an impact is not the best choice. Always start the nut by hand to insure that you are not cross threading it first, and then you may use a power tool to spin the nut down until contact, if you so desire. You then need to use a torque wrench on the proper setting to tighten the nuts to proper spec.

Over tightening lug nuts can cause a variety of problems, and an impact wrench will almost certainly apply too much torque when used to tighten them. Even using a speed wrench can apply too much torque, which can gall the studs, or worse, stretch them beyond spec causing them to break when under critical stress. At the very least, over tightening a lug nut can make it difficult for someone to  change out a rim in an emergency situation.

In the end, you may use what you want, or what works for you, but it is highly recommended that you set the nuts (or bolts) to the correct torque setting as specified in your owners manual.

Thanks JMG, Are there suitable fitting to allow a 1/2″ drive socket to be used in a 13m/m drill chuck ?

I’ve seen a 1/4″ hex bit with a 1/2″ square drive. Is there a more specifically design solution with a shank designed for a 13 m/m chuck ?

Are inline clutches available to limit the torque applied?

ac427 wrote:

5 hours ago, ac427 said:

Thanks JMG, Are there suitable fitting to allow a 1/2″ drive socket to be used in a 13m/m drill chuck ?

 

I’ve seen a 1/4″ hex bit with a 1/2″ square drive. Is there a more specifically design solution with a shank designed for a 13 m/m chuck ?

 

Are inline clutches available to limit the torque applied?

A drill will have its own clutch you can set to different torque, but again, you want to only use a torque wrench and find the torque spec for you vehicle and then set the wrench for that torque. 

In general, it’s a bad idea to use a drill for removing the lug nuts. You can get the 1/4″ hex to 1/2″ socket adapter, yes, but that’s for use in an impact driver. If you were trying to go a less expensive route, just use a socket on the lug nuts by hand, and if you want, use a drill to remove them the rest of the way. I wouldn’t use a drill to remove the lug nuts from tight, not designed for that.

Then when you’re reinstalling them, thread them by hand, pop the drill on with the clutch setting set low, then come back with the torque wrench to finish the job. 

Really,  though, just get an impact wrench!

Thanks KnarlyCarl, I was planning on the DTW190Z Impact Wrench.  I alsoneed it to remove caliper bolts when replacing brake discs.

Would a 190 have enough go in it to get the job done ?

I don’t see that impact having enough power. A lot of times the brake caliper bolts have thread locker on them and can be on there tight. I would reccomend the xwt02z. It will have far more power but it costs more too. This is what I would do.

agreed^.

Thanks All. I ordered the DTW285 in the end, 280Nm

What is nut busting torque of 400Nm all about ?

Is it some sort of turbo mode ?

ac427 wrote:

12 minutes ago, ac427 said:

Thanks All. I ordered the DTW285 in the end, 280Nm

 

What is nut busting torque of 400Nm all about ?

 

Is it some sort of turbo mode ?

It’s just marketing jargon for the fact that impact wrenches have reverse bias drives so you have more torque in reverse than in forward. You have 295 pound feet of torque in reverse to “bust” a nut loose. 

Strange stuff, If you can have 295ft/lbs in reverse, why cant you have 295ft/lbs forward ?

The DTW285 just arrived, what a sexy bit of kit, just waiting on the drill, charger and battery.

ac427 wrote:

1 hour ago, ac427 said:

Strange stuff, If you can have 295ft/lbs in reverse, why cant you have 295ft/lbs forward ?

 

The DTW285 just arrived, what a sexy bit of kit, just waiting on the drill, charger and battery.

It takes far more torque to remove a bolt than it does to put one on. 

NicholasShetley wrote:

On 24/11/2016 at 2:04 PM, NicholasShetley said:

It takes far more torque to remove a bolt than it does to put one on. 

Thanks Nicolas, i realise that but i wondered how the driver actually produced more torque in one direction than the other ?

ac427 wrote:

1 hour ago, ac427 said:

 

Thanks Nicolas, i realise that but i wondered how the driver actually produced more torque in one direction than the other ?

This:

Stercorarius wrote:

On 11/23/2016 at 8:36 PM, Stercorarius said:

…. impact wrenches have reverse bias drives so you have more torque in reverse than in forward….

Many shops are ditching their air tools or at least their air impact guns for cordless electric impact guns. The Milwaukee Fuel seems to be the standard now. It’s a beast that will easily remove front wheel drive axle nuts. 1400 lbs ft of reverse torque. I just saw Harbor Freight has a clone of it. I’ve used the Milwaukee Fuel, but haven’t tried the HF clone. HF does have a corded impact gun that’s decent for the price. Will easily remove lug nuts. Not sure of the torque rating.