Table of Contents
- Introduction
- Start with What You’ll Haul
- Ramps: Fold-Up vs. Slide-In
- Why a Dovetail Matters
- Go a Little Longer
- Tie-Downs, Rails and Stabilizer Jacks
- Final Thoughts
- FAQ
Introduction
Buying a trailer is easy. Buying the right trailer takes some thought. Dan was shopping for something to haul vehicles, a tractor and eventually zero-turn mowers, so he visited a trailer dealer who walked through several PJ Trailers equipment trailers and explained what to look for.

Start with What You’ll Haul
The dealer’s first point: they work from your application, not the other way around. Before you pick a trailer online, know what you’ll load on it, how long and heavy it is, and whether it has small wheels or low ground clearance.
Ramps: Fold-Up vs. Slide-In
The first trailer had basic spring-loaded fold-up ramps. Their advantages are that they’re durable, easy to handle and cost-effective. The downside: they don’t come off easily, so they can get in the way of a load that overhangs the back. The rungs were also spaced far apart, which the dealer said isn’t ideal for small mower wheels.
Slide-in ramps store in pockets at the rear of the deck. On the trailer shown, the ramps pulled straight out the back, which the dealer preferred over side storage because heavy ramps are easier to handle that way. If you’ll haul mowers, the dealer said ramps can be covered with expanded metal so small wheels can roll up.

Why a Dovetail Matters
A dovetail is the angled section at the back of the deck. It softens the transition from ramp to deck. The dealer compared a 2 ft. dovetail with a 4 ft. dovetail. With a 5 ft. ramp, the 4 ft. dovetail gave a 9 ft. transition versus 7 ft., which matters for modern cars and race cars that sit low to the ground.
Go a Little Longer
The dealer said one of the most common regrets is buying a trailer a little too short or too narrow. He showed the same trailer in 20 ft. and 22 ft. lengths and said that, for an experienced driver, the extra two feet makes little difference in maneuverability. Just make sure it still fits where you store it.
Tie-Downs, Rails and Stabilizer Jacks
Dan wanted plenty of tie-down points. The trailer shown had stake pockets and six D-rings, with a rub rail as an add-on, which gives you more places to strap a load. Adjustable stands at the back act as stabilizers, so a heavy load rolling up the ramps doesn’t lift the back of a lighter tow vehicle. Removable side rails are another option if you sometimes haul cargo.
Final Thoughts
Know your loads, pick ramps and a dovetail that suit them, buy a little more length than you think you need, and don’t skimp on tie-downs. For towing gear, see our look at the Weigh Safe hitch and the MaxxTow hitch-mounted crane, plus more in our buyer’s guides and PJ Trailers coverage.
FAQ
What should I decide before buying an equipment trailer?
What you’ll haul: its length, weight, wheel size and ground clearance. That drives the ramp, dovetail and length choices.
What’s the advantage of a dovetail?
It reduces the angle where the ramp meets the deck, which helps low vehicles load without scraping.
Fold-up or slide-in ramps?
Fold-up ramps are durable and inexpensive but don’t remove easily. Slide-in ramps store at the rear and come out of the way when you don’t need them.
Should I buy a longer trailer?
The dealer said many buyers wish they’d gone a couple of feet longer, and the extra length barely affects maneuverability for experienced drivers.
What are the stands at the back of the trailer for?
They stabilize the trailer so a heavy load going up the ramps doesn’t lift the back of the tow vehicle.


Leave a Reply