Corded Drill Cordless Drill Screw Gun
The drill is the most commonly used power tool and comes in very handy in all most any job. Drills have been around since man first invented tools, unfortunately they were powered by hand. The drill bit does the actual cutting, so having a sharp and proper bit is very important.
Corded – A corded drill obviously has a cord, but it also has more power and can take more motor abuse. A corded drill is great for heavy duty jobs such as using a big hole saw, drilling into concrete or mixing mud. A corded drill is nice to have when you need it, but that is usually only 2% of the time. The rest of the time a cordless drill will be fine. A corded drill is usually measured in Amps. The more amps the more power.
Cordless – Cordless drills are great. You can go anywhere and don’t have to worry about plugging them in. Now-a-days cordless drills will pretty much do anything you need them to do. The motors have greatly improved, not to mention the battery life and power. Cordless drills come in different volts and different amps. The smaller the volt the lighter the tool (in most cases), but also the shorter the battery life and the less the power the drill offers.
Drill – A drill is most common, it usually consist of five items: forward, reverse, clutch, hi/low and variable speed. The forward and reverse are strictly for drilling screws in or taking them out. The clutch reacts to the resistance of the screw. If the clutch is set low, once the screw has a little resistance the drill will no longer drill the screw in any farther. A high setting means it will keep drilling until the user stops or the screw is tighter than the power the drill can deliver. The hi and low is speed. Low speed is geared toward more torque screwing while hi is for speed. Variable speed is nice because you can change the speed of the drill by how far you push the trigger in. Some applications require the user to drill slowly.
Hammer Drill – A Hammer Drill can rotate and move back and forth in a hammering motion while it drills, which allows it to bore into concrete without burning the bit. For most home owners this is over kill, but still look at a hammer feature as an option. When you need one it is nice to have and usually is not that much more in price.
Screw Gun/ Decking Drill – A screw gun is designed for drywall or decking. It has a depth gauge or cone on the front that will automatically stop once the user has gone a certain depth in the drywall. The depth is important in dry wall because the paper on the drywall is what gives it the strength. Once you screw to far in and break the paper, the screw really isn’t doing anything. The trigger can stay on as you move from screw to screw because the head of the screw gun doesn’t actually move until the user puts pressure on the gun by pressing it against the wall. All these features allow the user to hang drywall very fast and very accurate.
Chucks Sizes and Types
The chuck is the front of the drill where the bit is inserted in. Drills come in three sizes 1/4″, 3/8″ and 1/2″ sizes and even bigger. These sizes indicated the maximum size bit shaft the drill will take. The most common is 3/8″ size. Most cordless drills come in this size and I would recommended this size. A 3/8 is very common and if you move to a 1/2″ you will increase the weight of the drill. A 1/2″ is designed for bigger bits and is designed for very heavy duty use. I have a corded drill that is 1/2″ and would recommend this since a corded drill can offer more power. A cordless drill should not really be used for extremely heavy duty use as it will put unnecessary wear and tear on the motor. But I use my hammer drill that has a 3/8″ chuck all the time on concrete and it works perfectly.
There are two types of chucks: keyless and keyed. A key chuck requires the user to hand tighten the bit inside the chuck and use a chuck key to tighten the chuck even further. In the past this was the way to go because there was basically no chance the bit would come loose. Now-a-days manufacturers have a keyless chuck that once hand tightened, the user twists it one more time by hand and the bit is locked into place for good with very little change of the bit slipping (Jacobs Chuck). I personally like the keyless system because it is faster to change the bits and now it can hold them in place just as good as the keyed feature chucks.
To learn more about the batteries, I created a specific page on batteries
|12V||3.5 – 4 lbs|
|14.4V||4.5 – 5 lbs|
|18V||5 – 5.5 lbs|
|19.2V||5.2 – 5.7 lbs|
|24V||6.5 – 10 lbs|
- The most important thing is making sure you have the right drill bit and a sharp bit.
- Let the bit drill the hole, don’t force it. If you are forcing the bit, the bit is dull.
- For screwing screws use a magnetic tip. This will hold the screw to the bit. Buy a good one, one that will actually hold the screw. I don’t know how many times I tried to save money only to throw it out. A good magnetic bit will be between $6 and $9.
- When drilling metal, make a center punch.
- When drilling into hardwood, make a pilot to prevent splitting.
- When drilling into plaster, go slow and if you need to, put a piece of tape where you will be drilling, as this will help prevent cracking.